Sharpening system?

Yeah I've been looking at the KME since this thread...I'm probably going to get another system anyways even if I learn this one better. I think it's too cheap and not solid enough to be consistent enough.
 
I use blue painter's tape on the upper/lower jaws...I like the "bite" better than electrical tape.

I was browsing Amazon, looking for a good price on a new Lansky medium diamond hone...I'm really hard on this hone as it it my primary reprofiling hone...
There were many "systems" and one thing I noticed, see the links, is the different "jaws". One is the thicker, aluminum jaws...like I have. The other one has thinner "verticals"? and looks flimsier.
Don't know why this is so but if anyone does I'd like to know why the difference.

http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe...ie=UTF8&qid=1406674654&sr=8-1&keywords=lansky
http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Diamon...ie=UTF8&qid=1406674654&sr=8-4&keywords=lansky
 
I'd like to second amg's motion of a worksharp, but add that just a regular work sharp system works great too. Its learning curve is much steeper than stones, so it's easy to pick up. I got mine earlier this week and I'm getting razor sharp edges already. Only about $70 on amazon.
 
The worksharp is just what electric ? So you put the blade in the thing and pick a angle and pull it through?
 
I have the same system and all I can say is be super repetitive on each side of the blade. Eg, if you pull 5 on one and 2 off the other it's more than likely going to roll the edge easily. Make the passes on each side as even as possible., and try to use/find even pressures on each hone. it'll take some practice, each hone almost needs a different amounts of pressure. This is what I had to learn, the feel of the sharpening. Now I'm pulling mirror finishes on that same system with ease. The hardest part is not rolling that edge with these clamp systems, just try to make even passes figure out what numbers work best for you /your blade etc.. And how much finesse each hone needs takes work and honing, lol no pun intended. I'm still pretty green with this system, but sometimes I'll still roll a edge but this is happening with less frequency. Keep your hones clean, clean, clean, everytime you use. I do that plus soak then in baby oil overnight, then clean again the next day before packing then back up. They still look brand new. My knifes stay sharp and mirrored. With this system with ease. I'd recommend getting a blue sapphire hone, a soft Arkansas, and a leather hone, all on Amazon at good prices.
 
The work sharp is essentially a mini belt sander. The base model comes with two different guides that feature 20 and 25 degree guides for each side of the blade. You turn it on, pull the knife through, and repeat a few times on a couple different belts and viola, razor sharp blade.
 
Hmm that sounds pretty good. Pretty hard to screw up and it's not all that expensive. I might have to try that out after I play with lansky a bit more.
 
Hey dustd3! Shoot me an email if you get a chance. I can't see your contact info.

ronin214 on hot mail. Thanks
 
dustd3 said:
That's a great idea...I would prefer that angle and if you made the hole a little smaller there wouldn't be as much play!
Click to expand...

I always put the pointer finger of my off hand over the rod on the back of the clamp to keep it pressed to the bottom of the slot. I liked my lansky. Using the methods above I can get a knife sharp enough to cut a free hanging hair. Made my own strops with wood and leather to finish them with compounds. The only problem I had with the system was not clamping tight enough and not centering the blade if it had no flat to clamp to. I replaced the two screws in the clamp with 10-24 screws (same thread pattern as the set screws for the stones) of different lengths for different knives. This was recommended on a YouTube video. That worked a little better for getting the clamp tight as I could use slotted screws and get a little more torque then the Phillips and thumb screw it came with. Wouldn't recommend that with the new cast Web pattern clamps though. They really cheaped out when they went to the new design from the old solid clamp. Was doing a cold steel true flight and the clamp snapped on me when the knife was still wiggling freely. Thank God I was holding the knife handle or it would of landed in my lap. Looked all over for the solid clamp and finally went with a kme. Should be here tomorrow.
 
It just takes practice and understanding your system. Lansky is a pretty goid system, a lil bit limited y the angles you can use but it works and keeps a steady angle which is what yoh need to get a sharp knife. As far as how ling it should take, thats too broad of a question. It will depend on the abrasives yoh use, diamond work faster than Al oxide, what kind of steel you're sharpening, 8cr should be fairly easy while s90v(good luck with that on a lansky) will take a long while. Also what kind of work ard yoj doing, if you're just touching up the edge at the sane angle it shouldn't take too long but if you're re profiling an edge by a few degrees, that will take some time. I had a lansky, it was ok byg I usually like angles around 15 degrees per side and less so it wasn't that useful to me. I do like their stones and kept a few of the finer ones for touch ups. I use the edge pro now and would not teade itfor anything. I get amazing results of it. Bug once you gdt some experience under your belt, you'll be able to get a knife sharp on juxt about anything. I gave been using a beat up ceramic knife, yoshiblade I think as a touch up tool and with it and some .5 micron diamond spray I get super sharp aggressive edges. Just keep practicing, use the sharpie to keep an eye on your edge and get a leather strop, it will help you with the burr and give you a sharp edge.
 
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