Sharpening the Sebenza

Rotte

Rotte

Joined
Aug 30, 2008
Messages
3,214
I can usually get a good edge on a knife pretty easily, but with the Sebbie and that hard S30V, it seems more difficult. I find I reach for a diamond stone or ceramic sharpener for better cutting ability. Has anyone else noticed this or am I delusional?
 
ive always used either a sharpmaker or edge pro.

i find s30v to be on the "harder to sharpen" end of the spectrum, but not to the point i need to get a diamond stone.

when i bought my first sebbie about three years ago, i inquired about sharpening. whomever i spoke to at crk suggested touching it up after use, rather than letting it get dull then trying to restore the edge.
 
Diamonds are great on S30V it has a tendency to form a tenacious burr and diamonds do a fine job of cutting the burr off rather than pushing it ack and forth as you mite get with some natural or soft synthetics.
 
MORIMOTOM said:
touching it up after use, rather than letting it get dull then trying to restore the edge.
Click to expand...

That is defo. the way forward.
As soon as i get a "visable" edge I either strop it or touch it up with a ceramic rod.

:thumbup:
 
Like the others, I have to say that I touch mine up on the Sharpmaker's UF rods at least weekly, more if I use 'em hard during the week. Some of my Sebbies have come with a great factory edge, a couple have been "under"-whelming when new. The Sharpmaker evens 'em all out to the point where I like 'em. If I can shave easily, push cut phone book pages, and still trim shrubs outback, that's all I care about.

I've started using 15 dps on all of my Sebbies and that works very well for a sharp edge that still has good staying power.
 
I just got my Seb recently and haven't had to sharpen it yet.

I've got a Lansky sharpener would you guys say that its a good sharpener for the Seb?

Sorry to hijack the thread by the way.
 
Lansky for reprofiling or angle changes, Sharpmaker for keeping it sharp. Also the Lansky will cause too much wear (i.e. material removal).
 
McSoappy said:
I just got my Seb recently and haven't had to sharpen it yet.

I've got a Lansky sharpener would you guys say that its a good sharpener for the Seb?

Sorry to hijack the thread by the way.
Click to expand...

crk recommended the 40 deg inclusive setting, which indicates to me that is the factory edge angle. or at least close enough.

so long as your sharpener is close it should be fine.
 
McSoapy- Go ahead and get a Sharpmaker for that Sebbie, it will be the next best 50 bucks you spend...

Sharpmaker plus strop block from knivesplus equals noticeably sharper than factory edge (for my shaky, spastic self anyway)....
 
I usually use my old very fine Eze-Lap rod .A few light strokes for touch up is all you need. You can also use a good ceramic stone. I think it's better to have a fine microserrated edge and don't let it get very dull .My touch ups with the diamond rod are about three or four light strokes per side. The reason for "difficulty" sharpening is the 4 % V.
 
Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback. I didn't realize the Sharpmaker was so popular.
 
sebbie original edge bevel is quite obtuse, IIRC. also convexed (like on Mayo customs). I personally prefer to resharpen to a v-grind bevel...it's easier to touch up later on sharpmaker.
 
The out-of-box edge my Sebbie had was way steeper than 40 deg. included. It seemed to take a long time sharpening it, but that's because I had to remove the steep shoulders before I was sharpening the edge itself. Although my edge is still slightly convex, it's been reprofiled at 30 deg included, and finished at 40 included. Now when it needs a touch-up, it's not difficult at all to resharpen.
Jim
 
Spydie Sharpmaker once a week works great on my S30V Sebbies. As mentioned above, I've found that a few passes on the rough hone and a few more on the fine hone, maybe 30 total works fine. I remove the occasional burr with a Lansky fine using a light "stropping" motion. Stropping on heavy Carhart's can work well as well.
 
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