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Sharpening tips?

Discussion in 'Koyote Custom Knives' started by makey98, Sep 24, 2009.

  1. makey98


    Jan 25, 2006
    Hey all, just some quick questions about sharpening I was hoping to get some of your tips or techniques. I have some kind of problem sharpening knives. I practiced all the time with stone, trying everything but just haven't figured out how to sharpen multi-bevel knives. That is why I loved my lueko so much, just a quick strop and it was good to go.

    Recently I have been harder on the edge and it needs a real sharpening. I have a couple mousepads with some 800/1000/1200 wet/dry sandpaper from an autostore. It seems like i can get the edge close to the handle sharp, but the tip I have some trouble with. I think this is due to the grind angle of my bushcrafter, a little wider by the handle and tapering out to the tip it seems. Should I be lifting the spine up to create MORE angle between the pad and the spine? OR should I be keeping the angle constant? When I strop I found that I could life the blade up to get all the edge sharpened, BUT I have never been able to really get it to push cut fine curls in paper. It will cut it very smooth with a little bit of drawing/slicing but never totally razor sharp. I am not really needing a razor sharp edge, just trying to learn how to get different edges. I don't have a natural instinct on this.....clearly. I am trying to work to get a razor sharp, hair cutting edge and see how that holds up, and then try a tougher edge to compare.

    When I strop I find the angle by pushing the sharp edge into the leather until it catches, then using that angle and drawing back. Is this the same angle I should be using when I use the paper?

    Any other tips?
  2. BarberFobic1992

    BarberFobic1992 Gold Member Gold Member

    Jan 21, 2008
    I would suggest holding the knife proportionally to the angle of the grind as the angle changes. The portion towards the handle, I am guessing, is at a more acute angle- this is probably why you are able to get it sharp up there. Just increase the angle for the steeper areas, and I think you'll get it good and sharp.
  3. makey98


    Jan 25, 2006
    one more thing. As a "reward" :) for following this thread, sometime very soon I will be taking some pictures of my 3 (waiting on a 4th) koyote. I have been unable to get outside to take some good ones and it has been raining for a couple days.

    I have the following:
    Lueko model 1 bushcrafter with ipe handle
    Jatoba (sp?) pocket nessie
    *NEW* mammoth ivory bird and trout with vinegar patina
    Small psk in progress
  4. makey98


    Jan 25, 2006
    Ahh. Thanks. I was told by koyote that the edge angle towards the tip is actually wider for strength. That makes much sense. I don't know why i couldn't figure that one out! I will mess with some stuff and see how i go.

    Anyone have a link for a "strop bat" by JRE?
  5. C Bryant

    C Bryant Gold Member Gold Member

    Jul 12, 2008
  6. koyote


    Mar 29, 2007
    you can also strop with sandpaper if a mousepad is too soft. I've been known to put a piece of 400 on top of a leather strop....

    The strop bat is excellent because you can get some more aggressive sharpening than just a straight strop generally gives you.

    A quick note- most traditional scandihoovian convex grinds I've seen are variable grind angles- which really is a sensible approach. It's one of the things that makes a convex a bit more versatile
  7. koyote


    Mar 29, 2007
    okay, I just went through and did dry stone sharpening on one of the 'scandi convex' profiles and it's really easy to keep the angles thin doing that. Still finish with a strop, but I just ran a coarse oxide stone and a mdeium arkansas and it's great.

    I'm going to try a large ceramic rod sometime, too.

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