Sharpening to the mirror edge, ARRGGGGHHH HOW????

'Cause the mouse is smarter than he is...
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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
 
I cast my vote for the <A HREF="http://business.gorge.net/edgepro" TARGET="_blank">EdgePro</A> as well. It's fast and takes up very little space if you don't have room for a belt sander and buffing wheels. Gives you an accurate edge and you can use those 3000 grit tapes as mentioned.

The EdgePro uses aluminum oxide water stones. These are a bit different from Japanese water stones, but the concept is basically the same. You squirt some water on the stone as you're using it, which allows a thin layer of the stone to break off, exposing a fresh grit for each stroke of the blade. It's a bit sloppy (I keep a towel underneath to catch the gritty runoff), but it's worth it. After years of oil gumming up the works and scouring spyderco bench stones clean after each use, it's almost a pleasure when the only cleanup I have to do is throw a towel in the washer. I just took a Kershaw Mini Task from what looked like a 100 grit or so edge up to mirror finish 3000 grit in about 20 minutes...and I'm still getting used to the EdgePro system.
 
I was more then relieved to see that there were no clamps involved. I gave my Lansky away 4 years ago when I bought a Spyderco SharpMaker.

The Set-Up is expensive, might have to consider that for a future purchase.

Do the Polishing Tapes last for more then one use? If so, that becomes more attractive as well...

Alot of this came about for me personally, after inspecting the edges on Microtech Knives and other Maker's like Chris Reeve. Reeve's Sebenza and the CR Fixed Blade I once owned, the edges were scary. It would be nice to be able to do that to any quality knife that does not necessarily come that sharp.

Jerry Hossom and I go 'round and round over "Tactical Folders!"

"It bends in the middle Don!"

The point being, Emerson Knives are very sharp, what happens when I can have an edge like this [mirror polished] on folders? My cutting power will increase and this is really critical in a Defensive Folder.

Any increase in power you can eek out of such a small blade is all the much better.

 
Don- yes, the polish tapes for the Edge Pro are reusable. You clean them off with a gum rubber eraser. Ben sells the tapes separtely if you run out. I've got the Apex model with the upgrade kit. Took me awhile to justify the expense but I'm glad I did. DaveAZ
 
Hey Don; I have never used stones to sharpen my blades. I imagine they are expensive as well as time consuming (in relation to doing it with power tools). I made my buffer. It was quite easy. The hard felt buffing wheel and the mandrel (the shaft that you attach the wheel to, comes with the bearings you can bolt to a bench) I purchased from Lee Valley, a high end woodworking hand tool store. There is probably something similar in your area. Total cost was about 70 CDN dollars. The motor I scavenged out of my dad's shop (hope he never try's to use his table saw again
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). You'll need a fan belt of the appropriate length as well as a pulley for the motor. I bolted the mandrel to the end of a couple of 2x4's that are attached to my workbench and stick out from it by about a foot. The motor was bolted to a shelf below the workbench top. Once you have the mandrel and the motor bolted you can tell how long a fanbelt you need. The green compound you can get from a knifemaking supplier or a woodworking shop. This may sound complicated but it only takes about an hour to rig up after you have the parts. As a motivation, it takes me one or two passes on each side of the blade (about 10-20 seconds) to achieve the mirrored look. Hope this makes sense. Sorry for being long-winded.

Hugh

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Scraped, burnt, sliced, smashed. AHHHH, knifemaking!!!!
 
I think the mouse (and the cat) disappeared into the cyberspace black hole....... we are waiting with anticipation for their return. and Jerry........smarter??? how much smarter can you be....you're a knifemaker!!!
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Don, the post above has a lot of merit... get a motor and put a hard felt wheel or carbboard wheel on one side and a hard sewn wheel on the other and you are good to go for not much money.....an old grinder would work great....get a 1750 rpm if you can find it....safer!

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http://www.mayoknives.com
Jer 33:3

[This message has been edited by tom mayo (edited 12-10-2000).]
 
[The easy way. Buy a skarb or edge-pro and put a wide bevel on your blade. The secret is in the final polishing. I usually put my final edge on a blade with a Razors Edge fine synthetic stone. This will put a nice shine on the bevel. However for the ultimate edge I use a 3 x 8 Norton water stone. I obtained an experimental one at the blade show two years ago and I do not know if it was ever put into production. On this stone I very lightly put a mirror edge on the blade. On some customer knives at the blade shows, we can get the edge so polished that you can actually see your face on the bevel just as though you were looking at a mirror.
 
Don,
I thought my Sebenza was sharp, until I had a go at it with my Edge Pro Apex.
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Semper Fi

-Bill
 
My general process for a new knife is stones followed by edge-finishing with a 2-stage leather strop with 600- and 10000-grit powders.

For major edge-formation I start with a crude Carborundum. Then I progress to a Spyderco medium (grey ceramic) bench stone. Then to a Spyderco fine (white ceramic) stone for final edge finishing.

The final steps are honing with a 2-stage leather strop system, polishing first with a leather strop with 600-grit powder and then finishing with 10000-grit (green chromium oxide) powder.

I highly recommend the hone systems for sale at www.handamerican.com. You can also buy powdered grits in many grit sizes, if you wish to experiment or make your own hones.

The leather hones will give you edges that are highly polished and can deliver all the sharpness your steel is capable of.
 
My general process for a new knife is stones followed by edge-finishing with a 2-stage leather strop with 600- and 10000-grit powders.

For major edge-formation I start with a crude Carborundum. Then I progress to a Spyderco medium (grey ceramic) bench stone. Then to a Spyderco fine (white ceramic) stone for final edge finishing.

The final steps are honing with a 2-stage leather strop system, polishing first with a leather strop with 600-grit powder and then finishing with 10000-grit (green chromium oxide) powder.

I highly recommend the hone systems for sale at www.handamerican.com. You can also buy powdered grits in many grit sizes, if you wish to experiment or make your own hones.

The leather hones will give you edges that are highly polished and can deliver all the sharpness your steel is capable of.
 
I ordered a hard felt wheel and green rouge after reading this post. I got to try it today and I'm very happy with the results, it's much faster then my old way. Thanks for the tip.
Joe
 
I put an edge on a knife I made today for the first time with my grinder. I am thinking of selling my Razor's Edge Professional kit! With my buffer and my grinder nothing in the world can stop me now.....
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"Come What May..."
 
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