Sharpening trouble

The plan, 2nd edition
1: Cut into the stone (knife 90 degrees to the stone) from heel to tip
2: mark the bevel with sharpie
3: work one side of the bevel on the sharpmaker at 30 deg with the coarse DMT until I hit the whole bevel, from shoulder to apex, and a burr forms from heel to tip
4: work the other side the same way, until both bevels are flat and meeting in an apex
5: continue with SM at 40 deg, with fine DMT, medium-, fine- and UF SM-stone in alternating fashion
6: strop on belt
 
The plan, 2nd edition
1: Cut into the stone (knife 90 degrees to the stone) from heel to tip
2: mark the bevel with sharpie
3: work one side of the bevel on the sharpmaker at 30 deg with the coarse DMT until I hit the whole bevel, from shoulder to apex, and a burr forms from heel to tip
4: work the other side the same way, until both bevels are flat and meeting in an apex
5: continue with SM at 40 deg, with fine DMT, medium-, fine- and UF SM-stone in alternating fashion
6: strop on belt

Sounds like a plan. The Sharpie will disappear accordingly in step 3.
 
The plan, 2nd edition
1: Cut into the stone (knife 90 degrees to the stone) from heel to tip
2: mark the bevel with sharpie
3: work one side of the bevel on the sharpmaker at 30 deg with the coarse DMT until I hit the whole bevel, from shoulder to apex, and a burr forms from heel to tip
4: work the other side the same way, until both bevels are flat and meeting in an apex
5: continue with SM at 40 deg, with fine DMT, medium-, fine- and UF SM-stone in alternating fashion
6: strop on belt

Be very careful at that step. The more passes you make, the more opportunity for error to creep back into the process, and you might find yourself back in the same boat with a rounded apex. Doing it in a series of grits will additionally compound the opportunity for error. Microbevels are usually best applied in an absolute minimum of strokes, to keep the apex as crisp as possible.


David
 
OK, so only a few (5-10 strokes) on, say, the corner on the fine SM-stone, veeery lightly?
 
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Btw, I had to let the 4 get some air today, and since my wife just shakes her head when I say I want to go to the woods, make a fire and cook something outside I have to share it with someone else instead.. :)
image_zpsda4sieaz.jpeg


The 4 also reflects some light at some places along the edge, but after making some kindle, a skewer for the meat and some whittling while waiting for the food to cook, it still shaves hair. So that just leaves me with a lot of work on the izula, 3 and candiru, I dont think I have to rebevel the 4 :)
 
Update: the izula and the candiru needs a LOT of work.. The 3 only needed to take one side down to 30 deg, and then microbevel. The result wasnt as pretty as anything I've seen here, like mirror polish, but I did manage to split a hair with it, so I think I'm happy with that
3c400ceeb2cd31f9c0fa5139181eb9a7.jpg


Edit: pic taken with iphone, this was the best I could fo. You can see some of the shavings on the hair, but some fell off. And it was not freehanging, so still not supersharp, but I figure its sharp enough to make some skewers and feathersticks..
 
Ok, so started to work on the izula. It takes a little time, since the bevels where so uneven, but now the straight part of the blade is perfect, the belly and tip needs a bit more work.

Just wanted to thank everyone who helped me in this thread!
 
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