Sharpening without scratching

Michael_Aos

Michael_Aos

Joined
Jan 25, 2001
Messages
1,639
I've been using this Chefs Choice EdgeSelect 120 for the past couple of weeks.

It took me a while to get the hang of it -- I was using too much pressure, not holding the tips parallel to the ground, going to fast, etc. Lots of "little" things that I finally figured out.

Well, now that I'm starting to feel more comfortable with it, I've tried sharpening some of my nicer knives. The "stroping" wheel worked well on my Timberline Discovery lock, and my Kershaw Boa, but I noticed on my Benchmade Ascent & Gerber "Fred Carter" Utility I it SCRATCHED the finish on the blade. What's "funny", is that the wheels aren't doing it, it's the plastic guides that are doing the scratching!

1. How can this be? ATS34 or AUS8 SCRATCHED by plastic?

2. Is there any safe way to try and fix the scratches?

3. Should I just relegate this sharpener to kitchen / utility knifes and get something else for NICE stuff?

Thanks,

Mike
 
Is is scratched, or merely marked? Steel often gets marked up and the marks look liek scratches, but a buff job takes them out.

I'm thinking things over myself about finishes and scratches, so I cannot offer much advice right now about more gear to buy. I have come to the painful conclusion that ANY user will get scratched. So, I am considering how much effort is necessary/worth it in maintaining the finish. yes, even a $350 Sebbie will scratch as easily as a $100 Spyderco. Um.. I'm thinking out loud again! Over and out, for now...

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"Come What May..."
 
What is probably doing the scratching is small filings left behind from earlier sharpenings. Why I like the Sharpmaker and other ceramic rod systems for most touchups, no place to catch or scratch anything other than the edge.
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by bfm:
What is probably doing the scratching is small filings left behind from earlier sharpenings.</font>
Click to expand...

That was my first thought as well, but it doesn't SEEM like that's what's going on.

I might try and remove the guides and see if there's anything embedded in the plastic.

Mike
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Crayola:
Is is scratched, or merely marked? Steel often gets marked up and the marks look liek scratches, but a buff job takes them out.
</font>
Click to expand...

I was toying with buffing. I actually tried to buff the BM Ascent with whatever buffing wheel is on my grinder and some red jewelers rouge. Didn't make any difference, as far as I can tell. I don't know ANYTHING about buffing though.

Mike
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Crayola:
even a $350 Sebbie will scratch as easily as a $100 Spyderco. </font>
Click to expand...

The stonewash finish on the Sebenza, like that on Microtechs, tends to hide scratching nicely.
 
Grit from various sources will embed itself into plastic and create the type of scratches you are describing. One possible solution for future use would be to run a strip of masking tape down each side of the knife where it contacts the guides or maybe on the guides themselves. I like the blue painter's tape for such applications. If you can put tape on the guides replace it after each use to aviod foreign particles getting into the tape.
 
Esav: I have heard that the stonewash finish does do a good job of this! I am glad that there is a blade finish option like this. However, my concerns with knives and finishes scope over the enitre knife. How easily does the titanium handle get scuffed up? Things like this I am thinking about as well. I have yet to see a stonewash finished blade for myself in person, but I hope to see one sometime soon.

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"Come What May..."
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Andrew McLurkin:
Grit from various sources will embed itself into plastic and create the type of scratches you are describing. </font>
Click to expand...

Yep, that's what it was. Took the whole thing apart, vacumed & blew out as much crud as I could and generally cleaned it up fairly well. Use the tape (just regular masking tape for now) and it helped a lot.

Much better now. Just wish I had figured it out BEFORE I scratched the Gerber.

Mike
 
Stone wash hides the scratches a TREAT!

BTW has anyone used a polish on a BT2 blade? One of mine has some marks (stains) I want to remove. I have a Chrome polish and a gun polish. Do you think it will remove the BT2 and make a pigs ear of it?
Get the Sharpmaker or use a free hand and a bench stone!
Thanks!

W.A.

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