I agree
what stones do you have for the lansky?
get a sharpie marker (i like blue), a good light source, and something to magnify with.
borrowing a picture I found on the net
Color the entire edge of the blade with the sharpie, clamp it in the lansky, grab a medium grit stone and lightly hit a one inch section of the blades using the 25 degree slot.
does this remove all or most of the sharpie from that section? if so, you've got the angle close.
if it only removes the sharpie from the shoulder (see green above), go back and try it at the 30 degree slot.
if this still only removes the sharpie from the shoulder, you have your work cut out and have a lot to steel to remove.
if using the 25 degree slot only removes the sharpie from the edge (see red above), then try to the 20 degree slot.
Removing just the edge will get sharp, but it wont be an even bevel from the edge to the shoulder...and thats not really what we want.
Once you determine your angle (and they might be different on each side, but you probably want them to match) you'll have to go to work with the coarsest stone that you have. The goal is to remove all the sharpies off of the whole edge on both sides. use a jewelers loupe, magnifying lamp, or some other aid to help you see that edge better and make sure all the sharpie is gone. If you've removed the sharpie on part of the blade, you can focus on the part that still has sharpie.
only use light pressure on your stone, and keep it lubricated - switch sides back and forth, workign on removing the sharpie from the entire blade, both sides, from heel to tip. once all the sharpie is removed, you've apexed the edge and should have a serviceable toothy edge.
from there, you can refine the edge with finer stones to meet your needs, but you have to find/create the apex first.