Sharpening your convex in the field?

[dogboye]

I don't go higher than 400 grit. It will get a knife shaving sharp. But it also slices better at that grit.

But like I said, in the field, ceramic or stone.

 

[Gadgetaholic]

400 grit? I use 1000, 1500 and 2000 and that still doesn't produce a shaving sharp edge. At 400 grit you might as well use a bastard file or a rough stone...

I can get a knife to 'shaving sharp' with 400 grit - I think you need to improve & practice your technique.

At home I do go to finer grits and finish with green compound on a strop, but in the field 400 grit should be course enough to get a knife sharp fairly quickly and easily, but fine enough to put a smooth enough edge on the blade. You can polish the edge properly when you get back home.

 

[JCK]

It would also depend on how dull your knife is, and what you prefer to pack far as sharpening methods. If you were to strop it after every use it would stay sharp, but then again you probably don't want to worry about sharpening after each use, more at the end of each day?

For all those guys carrying 400 grit sandpaper, how small is your sharpening package? Don't you need a flexible backing like leather or mousepad. If not wouldn't a small leather hone be quite good, and it wouldn't necessarily be wasted space/weight?

 

[beef]

I use 800 and 1200 grit paper and have no trouble getting a shaving edge.

 

[DOC-CANADA]

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6120572&postcount=5

Doc

 

[jarost]

400 grit? I use 1000, 1500 and 2000 and that still doesn't produce a shaving sharp edge. At 400 grit you might as well use a bastard file or a rough stone...

I use 400 and 2000, and don't have many issues with getting my blades shaving sharp.

For a field-expedient sharpening kit, I think the Altoids tin setup is a great idea, even though I don't have one. The kit I am setting up will have a piece each of the 400 & 2000 grit, as well as a small piece (~3") of strop that has been Gorilla Glued to a thin (1/4") piece of board.

 

[thebestnoobcake]

just check out the ksf otterbox sharpening kit

I just sharpen my knives at home.
Takes a while to wreck an edge if you use it for cutting applications.

 

[basb]

Thinking of getting a DMT Diafold Fine/Extra fine or Coars/Fine for my RTAK-2 and Lite machete. The izula does not get dulled to much by only slicing/cutting rope and whitling wood.

Any recommendations for a fine diamond/ceramic round sharpener like this to fit in my Maxped barnacle? Like this;

 

[willworship]

You can make a small strop loaded it up with compound on both sides and it will fit in your back pocket.

Option 2 you can purchase the field kit from KSF. Field Sharpening-Kit KSF also sells a leather pouch to carry the field kit on your belt.

I've seen this thing in action. You can lock the sandpaper into the box on either end and the sandpaper stays on the leather on top, and you have your "mousepad" underneath to keep the convex. Nice and compact if you want to keep the convex going in the field. As others have said, it may not be that critical unless you're out for a while.

 

[MVB]

If you haven't already, take a look at this page:
http://www.knivesshipfree.com/pages/Sharpening-Videos
The very last video is called "Field Maintenance of a Convex Blade." In it he shows you how to make your own small strop to take with you in the field.

 

[richstag]

You can carry all the normal convex sharpening stuff into the woods if you want, but I generally just use a ceramic rod or diamond hone just like I would with any other edge. Any minute change that you might cause the convex edge will be easily undone the next time you sharpen at home.

Don't over think it.

I agree 100 Percent

 

[gdeno]

Great video recommendation MVB

 

[nc527]

I just recently discovered sanding sponges while convexing a machete. they are about the size of a credit card, and I just cut a couple in half, with a piece of leather as a final polish. I believe I use 600 and 1200 grit ones.