Sharpening your FB's

D

Darth Blader

Joined
Nov 11, 2016
Messages
161
I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a KME with a convex rod attachment. Anyone else using this setup? I'm curious how others are maintaining their convex blades when they need more than a stropping.

Thanks!
 
I hear that Andy recommends the worksharp, but I am not sure that I can handle it. Sidewalk does sound appealing...
 
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If in an area without sidewalks I'll just find someone with an angle grinder. Much better than that factory edge
 
I have the KME and LOVE it.

I don't use the convex rod (and am not even sure what that is). I use the diamond hones: 50, 100, 140, 300, 600 and 1500. I have found that the 600 is often the ideal toothy edge for me, but I often find myself using the 1100 just because I like seeing the hairs pop off my arm. For maintenance, I use a Stropman strop with the black, white and green compounds. I have used the KME on all of my Fiddlebacks, and the results have been consistently awesome.

There are a lot of systems out there (Wicked Edge, Worksharp, Edgepro, Lansky, Sharpmaker, etc) and a ton of freehand options. While I enjoy playing with Japanese waterstones, I think that the KME is the best system for my needs. While the KME is only very, very slightly less capable than the Wicked Edge, it is significantly less expensive. To put it another way, I have been using my KME for around three years. I have never once regretted buying it or wished I had a Wicked Edge instead (or any other system).

The customer service from the owner of KME is spectacular. He will get on the phone with you, answer any question you might have and give you numerous pointers on how to use the KME. I once called him with every intention of spending more money. The owner talked me out of another purchase, helped me to improve my technique and sent me some free stuff. IMHO, KME is the Fiddleback of the sharpening market segment.

One more thing; the KME system does require some technique. Some folks think you buy a system with a jig and you don't have to think or develop skills. This is not true for any guided system. While systems like the KME take a lot of the guesswork out of the process, they still require you to understand sharpening basics. Also, there are techniques that are specific to the KME (or any system). Do a search of his site, read the threads about the KME and learn how to use it. If you do that, you will be amazed at the quality of the edges you will create.

Needless to say (but I am saying it anyway :) ), this is just my opinion. YMMV. Good luck with your purchase, and I hope you enjoy whatever system you decide to buy!
 
Darth Blader said:
I hear that Andy recommends the worksharp, but I am not sure that I can handle it. Sidewalk does appealing...
Click to expand...

I am not too sure about Andy recommending the Worksharp. I don't want to misrepresent anyone's opinion, and I often forget the specifics of online conversations. That being said, I think that Andy is actually NOT A FAN of the Worksharp AT ALL. Maybe someone (or Andy) will chime in here to confirm this.

I have used a friend's Worksharp and read a lot about them. While they can save time do work, they are VERY unforgiving of incompetence or mistakes, and have a very steep learning curve. My friend destroyed more than a few cheap knives (and one very nice one) while learning how to use his Worksharp. He still uses his Worksharp, but prefers to use waterstones or on his nice knives.
 
Andy has explicitly stated that using a worksharp or any mechanized device will void the Fiddleback warranty.

See here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1403607-Work-Sharp

Most Fiddlebacks have a convex grind but they are not zero convex edges.Which is to say the cutting edge is at a different angle than the primary grind. No need to make modifications to any jig just choose your angle and get to work :)

Fiddleback said:
My knives are designed to be able to be sharpened with convex methods, or with flat edge methods. There is no harm using stones, rods, or any other HAND method. I designed this into my process at the very beginning because I've seen a lot of folks struggle with convex sharpening.
Click to expand...
 
Most of the time I just use black, green, then white Bark River compound on a strop. If I need more I use a 1000 grit then 5000 grit Chosera water stone followed by the green and white stropping.

3de963815b521c84df3f2b6d4fe0ac7c.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
ncrockclimb said:
I have the KME and LOVE it.

I don't use the convex rod (and am not even sure what that is). I use the diamond hones: 50, 100, 140, 300, 600 and 1500. I have found that the 600 is often the ideal toothy edge for me, but I often find myself using the 1100 just because I like seeing the hairs pop off my arm. For maintenance, I use a Stropman strop with the black, white and green compounds. I have used the KME on all of my Fiddlebacks, and the results have been consistently awesome.

There are a lot of systems out there (Wicked Edge, Worksharp, Edgepro, Lansky, Sharpmaker, etc) and a ton of freehand options. While I enjoy playing with Japanese waterstones, I think that the KME is the best system for my needs. While the KME is only very, very slightly less capable than the Wicked Edge, it is significantly less expensive. To put it another way, I have been using my KME for around three years. I have never once regretted buying it or wished I had a Wicked Edge instead (or any other system).

The customer service from the owner of KME is spectacular. He will get on the phone with you, answer any question you might have and give you numerous pointers on how to use the KME. I once called him with every intention of spending more money. The owner talked me out of another purchase, helped me to improve my technique and sent me some free stuff. IMHO, KME is the Fiddleback of the sharpening market segment.

One more thing; the KME system does require some technique. Some folks think you buy a system with a jig and you don't have to think or develop skills. This is not true for any guided system. While systems like the KME take a lot of the guesswork out of the process, they still require you to understand sharpening basics. Also, there are techniques that are specific to the KME (or any system). Do a search of his site, read the threads about the KME and learn how to use it. If you do that, you will be amazed at the quality of the edges you will create.

Needless to say (but I am saying it anyway :) ), this is just my opinion. YMMV. Good luck with your purchase, and I hope you enjoy whatever system you decide to buy!
Click to expand...








http://www.dlttrading.com/kme-convex-sharpening-guide-rod

I had not seen this before the other day, but looks interesting
 
I have about a half dozen sharpening systems but plan on using my Dmt stones on my Fiddlebacks when stropping is no longer an option. Andy's knives are nice and thin behind the edge so they should be easy sharpen.
 
I use diamond stones for free handing, followed by a final touch on an ultra fine ceramic. Diamond tapes on the edge pro if it needs a lot of work. In between sharpenings, I usually strop with black compound.
 
Darth Blader said:
http://www.dlttrading.com/kme-convex-sharpening-guide-rod

I had not seen this before the other day, but looks interesting
Click to expand...



I haven't used the KME setup yet but I am planning on picking up that system including the convex rod in a couple weeks. I currently use strops with black and green compound from Bark River and I have had pretty good luck with that system but I have a few blades that are beyond stropping back to sharp (at least with my skills) and I have a ZT folder in M4 that the strop won't touch. I think the setup I am going with is the KME diamond hone kit + a kangaroo strop with 4 micron CBN and the convex rod. Should pretty well cover the bases for me with that setup.
 
Sharpening them is not my style. I just class them like I do with Razor blades and utility knife blades and just get a fresh one.

Seriously, I just got a Tormek T8 and have been very happy with it. I've got the waterstone attachment, but haven't broken it out yet until I get more comfortable on the regular stone.
 
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