I have searched all the sticky's and have not found a good tutorial or just thread that explains it. I have been using a Lanskey system at the 17 degree angle and I just cant seem to get my just made hunting knife hair popping sharp. Its a cable damascus knife that passes the brass test. Im sure there is a better way out there. If anyone has some good info I would love to here it.
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Sharpening
- Thread starter Gting
- Start date
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- Jul 1, 2013
- Messages
- 32,479
How does it do on card board or cutting hemp?
One test is not always conclusive on the results of your sharpening.
One test is not always conclusive on the results of your sharpening.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Aug 20, 2004
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- 38,524
99% or the knives I see from new makers ( mine included when I got started) were twice as thick in both blade and edge than they should be. If you ant hair popping sharp, it can't be a chopper shape. On the other hand, a hair popping edge will last only a few whacks on a brush cutter.
Sharpening starts in the first stages of making your knife;
1) Pick the steel type for the task. - No need for a Rc 63 steel if it is a chopper. No point in a lower hardness steel for a sushi knife. Stainless and carbon both have their places and uses...pick which one matches your desired knife. Contrary to popular belief, rust isn't normally a problem with a well made and cared for knife.
2) Pick the thickness for the blade type and task. Few knives ever need a blade thicker than .125". Most do well at .060-.080".
3) Shape the blade for the cutting task. Distal taper is important on most cutters. A FFG is going to be the sharpest, and a convex grind is going to be the toughest.
4) Take the edge down to as thin as is practical before HT...and then take it down to nearly sharp after HT. Don't skimp on post-HT sanding and don't round the edge excessively. Unless well experienced and using VS equipment, don't use the grinder post-HT.
5) Once the knife is finished....and everything is done....sharpen it. Do this by hand on a stone for the best edge. Use a couple different stones to build the edge, and take your time. Lubricate the stone liberally with oil, and take the edge to as fine a grit as is needed for the task. To get to hair popping it will require a fine to X-fine stone followed by careful stropping. Don't over-strop or you can ruin the edge you spent so long making.
6) Cutting hair is impressive, but unless you are shaving with the knife, it isn't a sign of much. Cutting cardboard and sisal rope is a good test.
7) Just because the knife doesn't pop of hair immediately after sharpening doesn't mean it isn't crazy sharp. Even with stropping, there is often rough metal left along the edge. Take a half-dozen cuts through card stock and you may suddenly see the knife jump up to very sharp. I use the 4X6" post card fliers that businesses send out to customers advertising sales for testing and conditioning the edge. Sometimes the first cut will barely slice the card and drags so bad it feels like a saw blade. Buy five more cuts it slides through the card like a hot knife in butter.
TIPS:
1) If you re worried about scratching up the bevels of the knife in sharpening, put blue painter's tape along the blade covering all except the last 1/4 at the edge. Tape up the guard/bolster, too. Then blacken the exposed steel along the edge with a sharpie. Now you will be able to see where the steel is being removed in sharpening and can avoid accidental scratches on the smoothly sanded bevels. Re-blacken as often as needed in sharpening.
2) In sharpening, it is best to start with a low angle and test the edge. If it is chippy or doesn't last as long as desired, increase the angle. If the range for the use desired is 10-15° per side..... start with 10°. It is faster and easier to increase the angle in subsequent sharpening than to decrease it.
Sharpening starts in the first stages of making your knife;
1) Pick the steel type for the task. - No need for a Rc 63 steel if it is a chopper. No point in a lower hardness steel for a sushi knife. Stainless and carbon both have their places and uses...pick which one matches your desired knife. Contrary to popular belief, rust isn't normally a problem with a well made and cared for knife.
2) Pick the thickness for the blade type and task. Few knives ever need a blade thicker than .125". Most do well at .060-.080".
3) Shape the blade for the cutting task. Distal taper is important on most cutters. A FFG is going to be the sharpest, and a convex grind is going to be the toughest.
4) Take the edge down to as thin as is practical before HT...and then take it down to nearly sharp after HT. Don't skimp on post-HT sanding and don't round the edge excessively. Unless well experienced and using VS equipment, don't use the grinder post-HT.
5) Once the knife is finished....and everything is done....sharpen it. Do this by hand on a stone for the best edge. Use a couple different stones to build the edge, and take your time. Lubricate the stone liberally with oil, and take the edge to as fine a grit as is needed for the task. To get to hair popping it will require a fine to X-fine stone followed by careful stropping. Don't over-strop or you can ruin the edge you spent so long making.
6) Cutting hair is impressive, but unless you are shaving with the knife, it isn't a sign of much. Cutting cardboard and sisal rope is a good test.
7) Just because the knife doesn't pop of hair immediately after sharpening doesn't mean it isn't crazy sharp. Even with stropping, there is often rough metal left along the edge. Take a half-dozen cuts through card stock and you may suddenly see the knife jump up to very sharp. I use the 4X6" post card fliers that businesses send out to customers advertising sales for testing and conditioning the edge. Sometimes the first cut will barely slice the card and drags so bad it feels like a saw blade. Buy five more cuts it slides through the card like a hot knife in butter.
TIPS:
1) If you re worried about scratching up the bevels of the knife in sharpening, put blue painter's tape along the blade covering all except the last 1/4 at the edge. Tape up the guard/bolster, too. Then blacken the exposed steel along the edge with a sharpie. Now you will be able to see where the steel is being removed in sharpening and can avoid accidental scratches on the smoothly sanded bevels. Re-blacken as often as needed in sharpening.
2) In sharpening, it is best to start with a low angle and test the edge. If it is chippy or doesn't last as long as desired, increase the angle. If the range for the use desired is 10-15° per side..... start with 10°. It is faster and easier to increase the angle in subsequent sharpening than to decrease it.
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2014
- Messages
- 7
I'm new to this forum. Am hunting around trying to learn what I can about sharpening and came across your reply here. I love the two tips you shared. Should prove super helpful once I finally dive in. Thanks!