Sharpening

J

JDMiller

Joined
Jul 3, 2015
Messages
278
I have a few bench stones , Just used a ceramic 1000gt stone 6"x1 1/2" to touch up my BK10 Worked pretty good. I have a big course/mediam stone that is way to course for what Im doing.

Anyway I need something to hold a angle better (I suck at it especially on the curve)and was wondering about these lansky type sharpeners

Do these things work good -lansky or is one of the others better to get? Make it easier ?

LKC03.jpg


Are these things for little pocket knives? Is a BK10 to big to use with?

I dont know,,, Maybe if I get one of these lansky or other brand wire guide type sharpeners, I might find out I can do better with a bench stone and guessing / trying to hold a angle straight... I dont know, Maybe these lansky type things work good....? ? ?


,


,
,
 
Last edited:
i have the smiths version of this and i used it a bit when i first got started but i much prefer freehand on a diamond stone followed by a leather strop

i would recommend practicing on some cheap knives and use the sharpie trick (use a sharpie and color in the bevel where you want to sharpen - take a pass or two and check to see where you were hitting, its a great way to check and learn your angles)
 
For my convex blades I use a KO ws. However for my V angle blades I use a KME. It puts the sharp in sharpener.
 
I have one of those actually. I got it a few years before "really" getting into knives, and it was/is serviceable. I've used it a few times since I got it to put a bevel on something really obtuse, but not much beyond that.

I sharpen on sandpaper nowadays, with some sort of white polishing compound/bar rubbed on a piece of paper for my final step. It gets me whittling hairs pretty easily, so I'm ok with it :).

So, while that lansky works, I think there are better options out there. Whether or not those options are worth the extra price... that I can't tell you, as I haven't messed with any gizmos since learning to freehand sharpen.
 
I did use a black marker on the edge while using my ceramic stone...helps alot. The factory Becker edge is real course, wow!... Been using my BK10 every day. This green dico rouge I have might be the wrong kind of stuff to use. Its for high speed metal polishing. It doesnt do much when I strop

Wet or dry sand paper... What grit would be about the same as a 1000 grit ceramic stone?

With wet or dry you always use it like a strop pulling away from the edge...Right? .... Never slice (push) into the paper ?
 
Last edited:
You might also want to check in the Maintenance, Tinkering, and Embellishment section, JD. That's where the pro sharpeners hang out. I'm trying to learn on stones right now. Got a lot of improving to do.
 
The wet dry sandpaper is what I use (and was recommended to me). I usually just go buy a variety pack at home depot/lowes/O'Rieleys/Autozone for a few bucks. The packs tend to come with one sheet each of 220-400-800-1000-1500 or something like that. And as far as I know, the grit is transferable to stones (meaning, its the same "grit" if it says it is), I could be wrong on that though.

Also, the technique is exactly the same as it is with stones, but the movement is backwards. Meaning, you draw the knife so that the edge comes back over the paper, rather than "cutting" into it like you do with a stone.

I'd recommend trying it out on a few cheapo knives to get used to it, but can attest to its results. Also, if you don't end up liking it, you're only out like $6.

Good luck :).
 
Chameleonbear said:
For my convex blades I use a KO ws. However for my V angle blades I use a KME. It puts the sharp in sharpener.
Click to expand...

KME has a new guide rod for doing convex edges. Yes, you read that right.....KME has a setup for doing guided convex edges.

I wait while that sinks in....

Moose
 
I used to keep the BK2 super sharp with it. Time consuming, use the ken onion worksharp now. But it was a really good set.



This is the Diamond set, very aggressive. If you do get it make sure you grab a honing stone and the stand, which comes with the deluxe set.

 
I used a lansky sharpener for a while. I received it as a gift from my uncle. As far as holding and angle I guess it does, but when it is clamped onto a blade with length the angle seems to change based on how far away the stone is to the clamp. I dont really know how to describe it.
I used sand paper as well. That is how I learned to truly sharpen. Slow, steady and deliberate let the grit do the work.
A couple years ago I bought 3 Norton stones. They are the 8x2 inch Crystolon course, medium and fine stones. The best $50 I ever spent. The medium and fine stone get used the most, but they all have their uses. I have never used oil on the stones, but use water and sometimes dish soap.
 
Don W said:
, but when it is clamped onto a blade with length the angle seems to change based on how far away the stone is to the clamp. I dont really know how to describe it.
Click to expand...

Actually this is true. If you clamp your knife deeper or shallower each time, the angle will change slightly. Also, if you allow the rod to rest on one side or the other of the hole, the angle changes slightly.

I use the grayco equivalent of the Lansky with diamond stones to reprofile if I want to and then keep them sharp with a sharp maker. But, I don't look for mirrored or highly polished edges and super super sharp edges. Give me something that'll shave with the grain and slice copy paper and I'm happy. Couple swipes on white sharp maker stones and back to sharp enough for me.
 
I started with Lansky, later got a Smith, and now have a DMT Deluxe Aligner system. The DMT is better. Whichever brand, go with diamond stones.
DMADELUXE-thumb.jpg



But I only use the DMT for restoring a dull edge or reprofiling. I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker for daily touch ups.
spyderco-sharpmaker-thumb.jpg



I made a larger version of the Sharpmaker for my larger blades ...
aabb18b7-ae61-4f22-8db7-35d90265d562_zpssq81olse.jpg



A rod type sharpener is better for curved (recurve) blades like the BK4.


JDMiller said:
I did use a black marker on the edge while using my ceramic stone...helps alot.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I always use markers to make sure I've got the angle right.


This green dico rouge I have might be the wrong kind of stuff to use. Its for high speed metal polishing. It doesnt do much when I strop
Click to expand...
Not supposed to. Stropping refines an edge. You'd notice the difference most if you were push-cutting through telephone book paper. Stropping is usually all a non-hard-use EDC needs.


Wet or dry sand paper... What grit would be about the same as a 1000 grit ceramic stone?
Click to expand...
meh ... a 1000 grit is a 1000 grit is a 1000 grit.

IMO, 1000 is too fine for a hard-user. 600 grit would be good. Adding 400 and 600 stones would give you an excellent setup.


With wet or dry you always use it like a strop pulling away from the edge...Right? .... Never slice (push) into the paper ?
Click to expand...
No, you can 'push' into it. You just have to be careful you hold the angle right. That's why I use emery paper for the coarser grits down to 600.

I use wet/dry in my DIY sharpner above.
 
how about a recommendation on homemade angle guides? I'm using a smith tri-hone, but it never came with the angle guide. I like the ERU one of the forum member makes that comes with a bunch of guides, just can't purchase one right now.

ETA: I do alright with the main angle, but the curves are troublesome.
 
Some good info thanks !

Not like I havent sharpened knifes before, Just kinda getting more into it with all these nice new knives Ive bought lately so I dont screw up the edges worse than they were and have to take more material off to get them right, fug around and get frustrated :D

I like this ceramic 1000gt with water. I bought a big lansky course/240-medium too, and its way to course, Sounds like I should get some around 600 ish.
Also have old stones that are too course , and some super real fine Arkansas ive had for ever that I dont use
 
Last edited:
JDMiller said:
I bought a big lansky course/240-medium too, and its way to course
Click to expand...
Yep, that's what you'd use to repair a damaged blade or serious reprofiling.

I used a DMT Coarse/320 stone to restore some blunted kitchen knives and rarely touched it since.

The DMT Fine/600 stone and Sharpmaker Medium/900 rods are the ones I use most, probably more than all the others combined.
 
I just got the Edge Pro Professional model last week and haven't seen anything else out there put such a consistent edge on everything from hatchets to hair scissors to filet knives.
Downside is it's ungodly expensive....
 
I'd go DMT, the lansky is slow cutting and the clamp can scratch the blade. Also I find the set up slower. The DMT angle guide cuts faster has a plastic clamp that doesn't scratch the blade spine and a magnetic guide rod. It's just faster and more convenient.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top