Sharpening

DeadboxHero said:
I'd go DMT, the lansky is slow cutting and the clamp can scratch the blade. Also I find the set up slower. The DMT angle guide cuts faster has a plastic clamp that doesn't scratch the blade spine and a magnetic guide rod. It's just faster and more convenient.
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The diamond set is aggressive and cuts very fast. My stand has foam attached to the clamp and does not scratch the blade. But I agree it is extremely time consuming. I would still recommend a KOW.
 
I have one of those Smith clamp and guided diamond sharpeners and a Smiths Arkansas Tri-Hone stones.
I recently started using the stones and am getting a shaving sharp edge.
Just keep at it. I used to not be able to get my Knives sharp at all. But reading threads like this one encouraged me to keep at it and I've been getting pretty good results.
 
JDMiller said:
I did use a black marker on the edge while using my ceramic stone...helps alot. The factory Becker edge is real course, wow!... Been using my BK10 every day. This green dico rouge I have might be the wrong kind of stuff to use. Its for high speed metal polishing. It doesnt do much when I strop

Wet or dry sand paper... What grit would be about the same as a 1000 grit ceramic stone?

With wet or dry you always use it like a strop pulling away from the edge...Right? .... Never slice (push) into the paper ?
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According to 2 different sources I found online, 1,000-grit waterstones from Lee, Shapton and Norton all fall into the ~14 micron range; roughly equivalent to 700 grit sandpaper here in the USA.
If the sandpaper is mounted to a soft medium - leather, wood, mousepad, etc, then, yes, strop only. If wet/dry is mounted to a ceramic tile or plate of glass, used wet, and you're super careful, you could probably go both ways (I have.)
But I've decided to stick to freehand stones for the V-edges on my Japanese kitchen knives, and use the Worksharp for convex on pretty much everything else.
 
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