Sharpening?

J

jhlarri

Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
64
Hello all. My name is Jake Larrimore and I am knew to the forum and to knife making all together. I have done one knife and am currently working on a second.
I was just wondering what angle you guys sharpen your knives (about, I understand that nobody sharpens with a protractor)? Also, what do you guys prefer to use when sharpening, stone, grinder, diamond sharpeners, or ceramic?
Thanks all,

Jake Larrimore
 
When I put a new edge on a newly completed knife I rough it in with a 150 grit belt. The next thing I do is go over the edge with a "used" 400 grit belt till I get a nice burr along the entire edge. Then I give it a few licks on a Arkansas stone and then lightly strop on a piece of leather loaded with white compound all the while trying to maintain a 15 to 18 degree angle. If its done right It'll make the hairs pop...................John
 
I also use a belt grinder - first lower grit: 150 or 220 to remove bulk
of metal to form the edge, then dull 320 (you will see burr forming and
disappearing if you do it right) at very light pressure.

Then buffing wheel and I am done. It does shave at that point.

I hold the the blade with cutting edge pointing away, at may be 5 o'clock
and let buffer wheel's edge buff away at about 20 degree angle. It is very important to NOT present the edge INTO the buffing wheel - so have it
pointed away.

You not likely to have all your fingers left if you're careless when buffing
sharpened knifes, so be extremely careful. Don't ever do it absent-mindedly. Don't let anybody else distract you while doing it. Lock the door
into the shop. Wear gloves and eye protection.

Have something soft on the surface (typically shop floor) below the buffing wheel. This way if the blade is ever ripped out of your hands
by the buffing wheel, it won't bounce off the floor and stick into your
body.
 
I would only have one thing to add, if you sharpen on a belt grinder; cut your self a few hardwood blocks to use as guides. Using a mitre saw, cut oak blocks at the desired sharpening angles you will be using. I have 10,12 and 14 degree blocks. THey are about 1 1/2" x 2" cut ALMOST TO SHARP, LIKE A WEDGE Cover one surface, of the wedge, with thin leather. This protects the blade surface from scratching. Rest the block with the leather up on the, slow moving, belt, lay blade on leather, to establish angle, pull block and sharpen. It makes it easy. Once you have it sharp, don't put it on the buffer.
Jams, Fred
 
thanks for the great advise everybody. I don't have a grinder yet:grumpy:... it's on the wish list though. I am looking around and saving up. I'm only 18 so I still have plenty of time to get one, till then I'll just do everything the hard way, a file, sandpaper, and hacksaw.
 
Sounds like you have a knifemakers heart , to me. You don't need a belt grinder to make a knife sharp. It just makes it a little quicker. The little blooks of wood will work on any sharpening surface. They really do help. Fred:D
 
Buy a 1/4 gallon jar of Elbow Grease at nearby CVS or Rite Aid - it will help you a lot, since you're using the hand tools
 
haha, yeah i got some while I was working on my first knife, I still have a little left but I think I need to invest in a third arm or something. I should be able to get a grinder by summer. What kind do you all suggest for a starter?? I see a lot of stuff on the Grizzly products on the forum so I was leaning that way, sound good?

Thanks for everybody's advice, Im sure it will be used, i would hate to lose a finder or two.

Jake Larrimore
 
Different stropping wheels will give different results.
Try a paper wheel vs. a hard felt wheel!
 
As was said, you don't need a grinder to sharpen! I use water stones, and you can even use sandpaper if you want (get a sheet of glass and paste the sandpaper on it to make it completely flat).
 
well i am a rookie too, but here is my 2 cents.

I use a diamond lansky medium, fine, x fine. at a 25 degree angle (the slot says 25 degrees but i know its probally not) than i finish with a leather strap to remove any remaining hangers edge. it will shave hair off of my arm at this point.

probally not the fastest way, about half hour from rough edge to finish but it works, i think at some point i will get tired of buying diamond hones from lansky
 
Lately I've been using a lansky at 20 degrees and then stropping with green compound. I made my strop about 20" long and 5" wide and I put the compound on each end but not the middle. I like to start each stroke with the edge on compound and finish it on straight leather. Using the lanksy is time consuming but so far I feel much more confident in the consistency of the angle I can get as opposed to eyeballing it. Starting the edge on a belt grinder will save time though. Just do your best for eyeballing on the grinder and then you'll see how uneven it can get (especially on curves) when you go over it with the lansky. NO offence to anyone who does sharpen their knives by eyeballing. There are some out there who are amazing at what they do...this is just the best way for myself at the present time..who knows how I'll be doing it down the road. Seems I'm always learning something new to try from this forum. I will say though that in my opinion stropping is essential to get that real fine edge we all strive for.

Mike
 
Fred.Rowe said:
I would only have one thing to add, if you sharpen on a belt grinder; cut your self a few hardwood blocks to use as guides. Using a mitre saw, cut oak blocks at the desired sharpening angles you will be using. I have 10,12 and 14 degree blocks. THey are about 1 1/2" x 2" cut ALMOST TO SHARP, LIKE A WEDGE Cover one surface, of the wedge, with thin leather. This protects the blade surface from scratching. Rest the block with the leather up on the, slow moving, belt, lay blade on leather, to establish angle, pull block and sharpen. It makes it easy. Once you have it sharp, don't put it on the buffer.
Jams, Fred
Click to expand...
Fred I have to say I took a peek at your site and I absolutely loved every knife I saw. I've drooled over many makers knives but ther are almost always one or two that even though they are beautiful just aren't my cup of tea.I was blown away by yours! I have been a knife nut since diapers and am also tring to become a maker. I would be very interested in seeing pictures of these hardwood blocks you use. And could I use something like that on say,
an Arkansas stone until I get a Belt Grinder? I'm getting tired of the time it takes with a Lansky.
 
rashid11 said:
...Lock the door
into the shop....
Click to expand...
I wouldn't do that, if really something happens, no body can help you with the doors locked...
its better to put a nottice on the doors "NO ENTRANCE AT THIS MOMENT"
 
mikxx1 said:
Using the lanksy is time consuming but so far I feel much more confident in the consistency of the angle I can get as opposed to eyeballing it. Mike
Click to expand...

This is the essence of why I use a Lansky. Actually, I use a Gatco because the stones are wider and longer than the Lansky, and seems to be quicker. I usually start the edge bevels one a 240g belt, and then go to the coarse stone to even everything up. After that, it's only a few licks and blammy - I am right into the medium stone. You can sharpen a blade on a belt or by hand on benchstones, but it'll never be as accurate and symmetrical as if done with a jig. Done right, any Lanksy-style sharpening system will get your blade sharp quick-enough and you know its done right. :thumbup:
 
I have an ats 34 blade that was heat treated by Texas Knife and I went to sharpen it with my big 8" India Stone. It will just barely touch it. My jewlers file will not touch it. I can see no mark on the blade where it was Rockwell tested. Is this normal for ATS 34. I have never used it before. Should I anneal it or what. I think my Customer will not like sharpening this Big Bowie blade.
 
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