Sharpening

Those aren't knives:eek:. They are Knife Shaped pieces of Stainless Steel:D.

Seriously, those Atlanta cutlery $10 specials won't ever take a good edge and hold it. Many are barely hardened.

Sharpen them any way you want, you have nothing to loose. I would try a diamond stone.
Stacy
 
Stacy beat me to it
KSO's (knife shaped objects) aren't worth the time you would waste. If you want an Altlanta Cutlery Customer-proof knife sharpening system, try the Lansky (normally I would send someone to
http://theperfectedge.com/
and tell them to get DMT brand diamond whetstones from Howard (what I use) but, those two China specials don't justify the expense.

Poke around here and learn what makes a good knife (heck, learn how to make one)

Welcome to BF

-Page
 
Get the Lansky anyways, your other knives will appreciate it. As far as "systems" go, the Lansky offers the most value imo. The inexpensive knives will be good practice ;)
 
If you've got a belt grinder, you could get a pretty good edge, but not to the extent of a properly hardened blade. And it won't hold up to much abuse.

Put the best edge you can on it, and beat the non-living snot out of 'em. They'll take out brush and saplings for a little while, anyway. Of course, you'll have to likely resharpen afterwards. But that's the joy of cheaper stuff (if there is a joy to be had here). You can beat it, break it, sharpen it, modify it and have no qualms. Heck, if anything else, take a file to the edge and work it down followed by some sandpaper on a backing stick.

--nathan
 
Welcome to BladeForums.

I hope some of the guys didn't put you off. These are really a great group of well meaning guys that would give you the shirt off their back. It is hard to be a knife nut without becoming a bit of a steel snob too, they're not picking on your or your knive choice, thought it does kind of sound like it. Inexpensive knives that are weapons/toys have given serious knives a bad name in the general public, and aren't too popular here. But there is nothing wrong with buying what you enjoy.

If your interest in knives develops and once you use them much, you might start looking for harder stronger steel and more useful blade shapes, but if you're like me, you'll still look back to your first knives with fond nostalgia.

Softer steels like lawn mower blades, sickles, and certain knives respond well to a file. I think you will likely have good success with a moderately sized fine file, such as a 10" flat smooth cut file. It works quickly, requires no oil or water, and leaves a micro serrated edge that slices well, even if it is not highly acute or sharp.

If you become interested in using blades made of higher carbon steel at higher hardness, you'll want a proper sharpening setup, as has already been recommended, but they're a little more pricy, and a file is a good tool to have around anyway.
 
Thanks Nathan. I was mostly just kidding around, thus the smilies.
Didn't mean to come off too harsh. Sorry Warrior, and welcome to the BF.

Warrior's home page and profile are an interesting read.
Stacy
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
Welcome to BladeForums.

I hope some of the guys didn't put you off. These are really a great group of well meaning guys that would give you the shirt off their back. It is hard to be a knife nut without becoming a bit of a steel snob too, they're not picking on your or your knive choice, thought it does kind of sound like it. Inexpensive knives that are weapons/toys have given serious knives a bad name in the general public, and aren't too popular here. But there is nothing wrong with buying what you enjoy.

If your interest in knives develops and once you use them much, you might start looking for harder stronger steel and more useful blade shapes, but if you're like me, you'll still look back to your first knives with fond nostalgia.

Softer steels like lawn mower blades, sickles, and certain knives respond well to a file. I think you will likely have good success with a moderately sized fine file, such as a 10" flat smooth cut file. It works quickly, requires no oil or water, and leaves a micro serrated edge that slices well, even if it is not highly acute or sharp.

If you become interested in using blades made of higher carbon steel at higher hardness, you'll want a proper sharpening setup, as has already been recommended, but they're a little more pricy, and a file is a good tool to have around anyway.
Click to expand...

Hello Nathan!

Thank you, I appreciate the concern. :) While I haven't been offended at all by what anyone's said, I really appreciate what you said.

Basically, I'm on a very low budget. I have an affinity for blackened blades, and also for Japanese style blades. Thus these two jumped out at me as they combine both traits. Inexpensive? You bet. But I really like the style. I don't intend to "use" them, so they're fine with me. There are user knives, and looker knives. I like both, and since I'm on a low budget, I have some "cheap" knives. I love some really fabulous knives, but honestly I can't afford many of those (at least not as a college student, lol). Make sense?

So you'd recommend a file? How should I file it, down the length of the blade in long strokes, or in short little strokes down towards the edge?

Stacy: no offense taken at all! Thanks for dropping by my blog. You're welcome any time, and you should comment some time too.

Thanks for all your help guys!

Spencer
 
Spencer,

The important thing is to maintain a consistent angle. For this I would recommend a 40 deg included angle, about about 20 deg per side.

If you're filing I think you need to sharpen by running the file perpendicular to the edge. You don't want the "micro serrations" to run the length of the blade because they won't work as well and they may weaken the very edge like that.

I would hold the blade at the angle you want with the spine supported on a table, then hold the file parallel to the table and file pushing away from you, away from the edge. (BTW, you don't used stones this way). Do this on both sides until the edge forms a burr. Finish with one or two light strokes at a slightly more obtuse angle on both sides to remove the burr.
 
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