Sharpening

jdm61

jdm61

itinerant metal pounder
Joined
Aug 12, 2005
Messages
47,357
I need to put an edge on a big blade and it has a Spanish notch, so I am not comfortable with the traditional slack belt method. What stone or hone should I use to get an edge down from 20 thousandths?
 
If you don't feel comfortable with the slack belt method, a Lansky or Gatco system, (followed by either a buffer or leather strop) will give you adequate results, albeit with quite a bit more time. I'd seriously consider spending the extra $ on the diamond stone versions. You will likely wish you had later if not...
Matt Doyle
 
I dont know what you mean by Spanish knotch?? I would use a paper wheel system and if you want to do it by hand a leather belt and strope it.
 
I normally use the rotary platen on my KMG, then the slack belt and finish with a four sided strop bat. I am just concerned that with the Spanish notch, ut might be a bit tricky.
 
Joe,
I use an Edge Crafter diamond file/sharpener.
The blade/knife is held in a vice, parellel to the bench, and
the diamond sharpener is worked over each side, a little at a time,
untill a fine burr in developed. Then, the bevels are hand finished
to the same degree as the blade.
After that, a few strokes on a fine India, then a strop.
Less speed, much more control than slack belt.......of course...
it could just be my age......
 
I use the Tormek sharpening system (then finish off with a paper wheel). It takes away all the guess work on what angle you are sharpening and it keeps the tip cool. Also, takes away very little material.

It is not cheap, but good tools never are.

Dennis

http://www.tormek.com/en/
 
I use diamond hand stones. I dont use non cooled machines post heat treat so as not to harm the edge temper.
 
Russ,

Thanks for that description. Could I ask a couple more questions?

How thick is the edge when you start the process?

How far back up the blade to you work with the file?

And about how long does the process take on an average sized blade?

Thanks a bunch,

John
 
I have used electricians tape and wrapped it around the notch to protect it if I touch it to the belt.
 
Any unlubricated sharpening system will heat the extreme edge (the part that actually needs to have all of its resistance to deformation) above tempering temps according to Roman Landes who has actually measured it. That includes paper wheels.
Use wetted diamond "stones" oilstones, or waterstones. It will take longer than burning it with a cardboard/paper wheel or grinding it in with a belt but the results once you have practiced will be eminently worth it.

-Page
 
John,
The process can take from 20 min. to over an hour, depending on
blade size, edge thickness, and how I want it finished.
Edge thickness can be from .015 on up. On a thick edge, I may
start the bevels with a slow 220x belt.
With the Diamond file, I only bring the bevels up to maybe 3/32",
then do some finer shaping/blending with 500x paper...then finer
grits to match the blade finish.
 
sunshadow said:
Any unlubricated sharpening system will heat the extreme edge (the part that actually needs to have all of its resistance to deformation) above tempering temps according to Roman Landes who has actually measured it. That includes paper wheels.
Click to expand...

Any information on that you can link to? Preferably in english, but I'm not holding my breath. Does he still post here to ask directly?
 
One more question for Russ and All,

Is the Edge Crafter special in some way, or could I use a spare 6" DMT Diasharp Course stone I have lying around? I was thinking of epoxying it to a nice hardwood handle and using it as a file.

Thanks again,

John
 
John,
The only thing that might be different about the Edge Crafter is
that it has three interchangable 1 1/4 X 6" plates.
Your idea sounds like it could work just as well.
 
Thank you again, Russ.

I happen to have a fine and a course DMT--6 inchers that I don't use since I got bigger stones.

Do you use all 3 stones, or mainly just the coursest for heavy stock removal before going to paper?

Best,

John
 
I rough an edge bevel in on the belt then actually bring the edge bevel to the edge on the black coarse DMT, then the blue, then the red, then finish on the green. I have an extra-fine solid surface DMT that I refine even more with, all with water and a touch of dish soap as a wetting agent

-Page
 
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