Sharpening

I use sandpaper, followed by stropping with green compound. Produces a shaving sharp edge in no time. Stropping is not really necessary, just use very fine sandpaper. It's a cheap, yet very efficient way to do it. Try it and you'll be surprised...
 
DMT DiaSharp 8". F/XF on one, C/XC on the other. Everybody really needs to learn how to freehand. It is very hard but I thing diamonds make it easier because the feedback loop is shorter...results achieved quicker so one learns quicker. Also the agressive cutting allows you to do it more controlled. Freehand sharpening is a great skill to have and once you can do it, nothing will be quicker except maybe the belt-sander/grinder or paper wheel route...which I have never tried.
 
Joezilla said:
If i had it to do all over again, I would just get the multi-layer fine india stone by norton. Course on one side, fine on the other. I have all of spyderco's products, and LOVE them (especially the double stuff for the field), but I find myself just coming back to that basic stone all the time.
http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Crystolon-Combination-Oilstone-Coarse/dp/B0001MSA5Y
Click to expand...

This is pretty much me, too. I have three sharpening "devices" that I pretty much use on every knife, and they haven't failed me yet. A very coarse small stone that I back bevel with, a double-sided norton-type with what I'd call medium and fine, then I finish up with the brown side of a Doublestuff. With those, I can work with pretty much any knife I have. If I want to get fancy, I'll use some sandpaper over leather to get a bit of a convex going on.

Nutnfancyfan, is your problem your technique, or is the stone you're using just not coarse (or fine?) enough?
 
I have the Sharpmaker but prefer the KME. Zero user error and you don't have to worry about dulling the tips.
 
rockspyder, i thinks its a combo of both, plus the stone i have is kinds short. bought the sharpmaker and am waiting for it to arrive
 
So many ways!

I have DMT dual sided benchstones, 8"x 2 5/8", and the Spyderco UF 8"x3". These work nicely but if i had it to do again I'd get the continuous DMT's.

I also have the DMT aligner, i don't really like this system although i used to.

Currently I'm putting together a powered sharpening rig. Just got a Kalamazoo 1x42 belt sander yesterday with a bent shaft!! I also have a grinder and some paper wheels coming. This seems to be the best bet for rapid sharpening so I'm hoping it all goes well and i can get a replacement Kalamazoo soon.

-- Adam

EDIT: looks like i was just a tiny bit too slow posting this :)
 
Wet-dry sand paper over something like a mousepad or leather works great for ESEE knives. It takes a little bit of a "leap of faith" to start re-grinding them to a convex edge with sandpaper, but you likely wont regret it. ;)

I only go up to 1500 and then strop on leather.

If you want to try and maintain the factory edge, then DMT stones are great.
 
Arkansas stones for decades, I grew up with 'em. just takes a lot of time.

Lansky system in the the past year -- has been stupid easy and fast.
Sharpmaker didn't work for my dumb self, no clue why.

Got a Lansky Lawmower sharpener thing recently (no moving parts)
...tried it on an axe and the cold steel SF shovel....
multiple grits, and it should work great in the field and it was less than $10.
 
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