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Sharpening

Joined
Feb 6, 2012
Messages
37
First an intro. My name is William. I am new here (although it was this site that prompted me to buy my BK2 over a year ago, why I didnt join then is anyones guess) and wanted to say hello as well as ask a question or two.

My first (of many most likely) question is about sharpening. Yes I have searched and even watched a couple videos. I'd like to do a better job of maintaining my knives and would like a little advice for a beginner. I've read about the edge pro and lansky systems that people are using. Would these be good for a novice? What about stones or even your basic kitchen rod? Belt sander? I'm not really sure where to begin as there seems to be a lot of different methods. My BK2 mainly serves camping duties (from food prep to the fire). Should I just pick up a diamond stone and start with that?

Oh and heres a pic because I know someone will ask :D

105_5422.jpg
 
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Spyderco Sharpmaker works well. On my BK2 I just free hand it on a Lansky India stone and then a homemade leather strop. Just play with it if you stay away from the power tools its pretty hard to mess up a Becker.
 
Hey :D
Funny you ask this because I was considering posting the same thing ;P I've never personally used the lansky or edge pro so I can't speak from personal experience, but from some stuff I've read in the forums my general idea is that the lansky is better then the edge pro. But again, I haven't used either myself. I've also heard good things about the Spyderco Sharpmaker. I'm sure most people here are going to say to get a stone, though.
 
Spyderco Sharpmaker works well. On my BK2 I just free hand it on a Lansky India stone and then a homemade leather strop. Just play with it if you stay away from the power tools its pretty hard to mess up a Becker.

Stay away from power tools. Probably good advice for a newbie. :thumbup: I have also looked at the Sharpmaker. I think I'll swing by some of the outdoor shops around and see what I can put my hands on.

Hey :D
Funny you ask this because I was considering posting the same thing ;P I've never personally used the lansky or edge pro so I can't speak from personal experience, but from some stuff I've read in the forums my general idea is that the lansky is better then the edge pro. But again, I haven't used either myself. I've also heard good things about the Spyderco Sharpmaker. I'm sure most people here are going to say to get a stone, though.

Glad I could be of assistance :D
 
I'd second the Spyderco Sharpmaker system. If you want to pop hairs, grab the ultra-fine rods for it and keep your knives away from children, small animals, and clumsy people.

My method right now is a Sharpmaker on both the medium and fine stones to set the angle. After that, I maintain the edge with a leather strop and hit it with the Sharpmaker if I come up with any nicks or rough spots in the blade. Using this system has taught me a lot about edges and angles and I can now free-hand pretty confidently on a sander or bench stone, but don't usually need that aggressive of a sharpening process, once I have the edge on it I like.
 
I use the lanky and it's a great system, it took a while to reprofile my bk2 to the 20 deg of the lansky system, but now that the angles are matched up it works great, and is very simple to get a razor edge. If you do get one I recommend doing the sharpie trick and marking your blade edge to make sure your sharpening the entire edge.
 
Sharpmaker is a good bet. Helps you get started, then you can use the rods for hand sharpening once you get the feel for it.
 
Oh and heres a pic because I know someone will ask :D

105_5422.jpg

Spent some time lurking around, knows how to ask questions politely (and not stupidly), knows proper posting procedure (ie pics!)... this is a great first post, Boz.

I used Spyderco's Tri angle system for a while. Worked great on my thinner stocked 3/16", but I couldn't get the 2 hair popping. I tried the mousepad + sandpaper method, worked a little better. Nowadays I freehand on a Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener, and that gets it to where I want it. I haven't finished off a strop yet (mainly because I'm looking for a nicely made one), but I do use a very fine stone to remove any burrs.

If you feel a little adventurous, you can try the "Fisk" method.
 
I use a Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener and I love it, it puts a convex edge the knife and for me it turns the BK-2 into a whole different knife, carves and chops MUCH better, in my opinion.

There is a bit of a learning curve, and as with any belt sharpener there is some heat build up, but the belts move pretty slow so it would take some time for it to mess with the heat treat, one bit of advice is to practice on old kitchen knives, cheap pocket knives just so you can get the hang of using it.

Here is the link to the thread in the maintenance forum if you would like to read more about it. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/876346-Work-Sharp-(belt-grinder)-Knife-Sharpener
 
I'm going to a woodworking show on Friday, so I'll have to check out the Work Sharp system.
 
Wicked Edge looks pretty neat, although massively expensive. Also, paper wheels. Talk to richard j on here about that.
 
I also have a Sharpmaker and would recommend it as well. Makes sharpening very easy. Every once in a while I'll see a thread where someone just can't sharpen their knife with it, but I can't see how since it's so simple.

Now, one thing that it's not great at is re-profiling an edge -- just not abrasive enough to do it quickly, takes a long time. You can wrap a lower grit sandpaper around the rod and I've had success with that.

The WorkSharp has received some good praises around here and seems like it'd be a good intro into powered sharpening (it includes blade guides). I've thought about getting one, but honestly I get the results I need with just the Sharpmaker.

Welcome and good luck.
 
Thanks Boz, saved me a give away ! I am almost o the point of selling some knives just do to not being able to sharpen them! What I'd really like I see and I'm sure others would as well would be a little video of someone using a lansky and a sharp maker. The more in depth the better? Where are you setting the clamp? Do you move it ever? Lay the rod guide against the top or bottom of the slot? These are the thinks I want to know. So come on all you techy knife loving FELLOW Becker Heads, let's see some videos.
 
Why do it the hard way? I have a Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener, and although I dont think it sharpens all knives as easily as they claim, my Beckers absolutely love it, and it sharpens the BK2 faster and better than anything.
 
Eh. There's nothing like putting an edge on yourself with a stone. I have a bk2 sharpening video I made. Its easy once you have basic technique and a stress reliever.
 
Spent some time lurking around, knows how to ask questions politely (and not stupidly), knows proper posting procedure (ie pics!)... this is a great first post, Boz.

I used Spyderco's Tri angle system for a while. Worked great on my thinner stocked 3/16", but I couldn't get the 2 hair popping. I tried the mousepad + sandpaper method, worked a little better. Nowadays I freehand on a Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener, and that gets it to where I want it. I haven't finished off a strop yet (mainly because I'm looking for a nicely made one), but I do use a very fine stone to remove any burrs.

If you feel a little adventurous, you can try the "Fisk" method.

Why thank you sir.

I use a Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener and I love it, it puts a convex edge the knife and for me it turns the BK-2 into a whole different knife, carves and chops MUCH better, in my opinion.

There is a bit of a learning curve, and as with any belt sharpener there is some heat build up, but the belts move pretty slow so it would take some time for it to mess with the heat treat, one bit of advice is to practice on old kitchen knives, cheap pocket knives just so you can get the hang of using it.

Here is the link to the thread in the maintenance forum if you would like to read more about it. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/876346-Work-Sharp-(belt-grinder)-Knife-Sharpener

Oh I like the looks of that thing. Thanks for the link. :thumbup:

I also have a Sharpmaker and would recommend it as well. Makes sharpening very easy. Every once in a while I'll see a thread where someone just can't sharpen their knife with it, but I can't see how since it's so simple.

Now, one thing that it's not great at is re-profiling an edge -- just not abrasive enough to do it quickly, takes a long time. You can wrap a lower grit sandpaper around the rod and I've had success with that.

The WorkSharp has received some good praises around here and seems like it'd be a good intro into powered sharpening (it includes blade guides). I've thought about getting one, but honestly I get the results I need with just the Sharpmaker.

Welcome and good luck.

I like the idea of starting with something like this to help me learn angles and techniques.

Thanks Boz, saved me a give away ! I am almost o the point of selling some knives just do to not being able to sharpen them! What I'd really like I see and I'm sure others would as well would be a little video of someone using a lansky and a sharp maker. The more in depth the better? Where are you setting the clamp? Do you move it ever? Lay the rod guide against the top or bottom of the slot? These are the thinks I want to know. So come on all you techy knife loving FELLOW Becker Heads, let's see some videos.

You're welcome :D and Great idea with the videos.
 
The Sharpmaker comes with a good video and shows you how to sharpen all kinds of knives, tooks, scissors, hooks, etc. Otherwise, just go to youtube and type in the names of the sharpeners that interest you and watch until you can't take it anymore.
 
I'm going to dissent and say I have a really hard time with my sharpmaker. It is one of the most awkward things I've used. What I use now and get great results with is a Bark River double sided strop, stropping compound, and sand paper. Lay the sand paper down over the strop(I use a thumb tack in the end to hold it in place) then free hand it. I start with 400 grit(if dull) and go to 600, 800, 1000, 1500 and at that point I usually stop and switch to black strop compound and then hit it with green to remove the burr. When starting out be sure to paint the edge with a sharpie so you know you're at the right angle.
 
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