Sharpest Re-sharpened Knife and How You Did It

I sharpened a couple of knives (A Victorinox Paring knife and a Shun Shimi) with the Wicked Edge. I used the diamond "stones," all of the ceramics, and strops. The final one, balsa, ends with .5 micron diamond paste. Those are probably the sharpest I have ever done. They easily passed a horizontal, one-handed, tomato slicing test (thin slices) and are probably sharp enough to shave comfortably. I will sharpen one with the Edge Pro with the full set of Choseras this week to compare.
 
bknorr1 said:
Ben, as I understand, the Shaptons will cause Vanadium tearout in the supersteels, and although the Shaptons used alone may result in extreme sharpness, the Vanadium tearout will result in an edge that does not retain the "supersteel durability". Do you rely on the CBN stropping to shape the Vanadium in your final edge? Also, if a toothy edge is desired, when do you stop with the Shaptons and finish with diamond/CBN?
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I guess I'm not familiar with vanadium tear out. I don't ever sharpen for a toothy edge. I suppose if I did want "tooth" I'd just stop at the 2,000 grit stone, and maybe a few licks on the leather with 6 micron CBN..
 
Ben Dover said:
I guess I'm not familiar with vanadium tear out. I don't ever sharpen for a toothy edge. I suppose if I did want "tooth" I'd just stop at the 2,000 grit stone, and maybe a few licks on the leather with 6 micron CBN..
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Do you have any of the S30V, S90V, S110V knives ?
If you do you know how they go from whittling sharp to pretty much shave sharp but not whittling and then just stay about there for like the rest of your life. I had one S110V out of three that deteriorated way more and way faster, in a day of challenging cutting (total time in cuts only a few minutes though). I sharpened it to whittling (also toothy) many times so it wasn't bad steel at the very edge area. Blasted thing was astonishingly poor. It wasn't so much "tear out" as it was the vanadium carbides ran away as soon as I opened the barn door.
 
Anyone familiar with the Norton im313? For years and years I had no clue what the grits were on those stones and would just use the "coarse" stone for the edge and then hone on a steel, I like slick, worn out steels. Never really needed to debur as I sharpen edge leading on those stones although I'm sure some foil remained since I never stropped on a stone in those days. Great edge for cutting meat all day.

Speaking of toothy, I think that "coarse" stone is 100 grit lol the fine stone on that set is like 350.
 
RebelSon said:
Anyone familiar with the Norton im313? For years and years I had no clue what the grits were on those stones and would just use the "coarse" stone for the edge and then hone on a steel, I like slick, worn out steels. Never really needed to debur as I sharpen edge leading on those stones although I'm sure some foil remained since I never stropped on a stone in those days. Great edge for cutting meat all day.

Speaking of toothy, I think that "coarse" stone is 100 grit lol the fine stone on that set is like 350.
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Hi,
according to bosq/grinding_and_honing_part_1.pdf
Norton Coarse Crystolon Stone ~127 micron, ~P120, ~ANSI 100
Norton Medium Crystolon Stone ~78 micron, ~P180, ~ANSI 180
Norton Fine India Stone ~35 micron, ~P400, ~ANSI 400
 
As far as polished v toothy, IMHO there is no right or wrong. whatever works for you and/or whatever you like.

For me, a super polished edge works for a general hunting/camping/all around knife. But someone else might like "tooth" for the same work.

Most of my knives are D-2, CPM S90V, M390, K390, CPM M-4, Maxamet. Two of them are CPM Rex 121.
 
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Like the reply’s here, I’m looking into a good Sharpener and have been looking at the Spyderco Triangle, Edgo Pro 1 $150 model and the KME but kind of rulled it out due to having trouble clamping some knives.
A Spyderco Triangle Sharpener would probably be enough for some of my knives but for my Tantos, a system like the Edge Pro is better for Tantos I heard.

Has anyone ever bought an agptek Edge Pro clone off Amazon for around $30 and then bought quality stones for it as needed?
I’ve heard of people doing it but not much else such as the results and is it easy to work with, curious to know if it is quality made and feels like a real Edge Pro...
 
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Hold a piece of paper from a phone book (or newspaper) vertically like Sergeua is showing and see how far away from your hand you can push cut without ANY slicing to get started. My best is about 4 inches, one of our fellow forumites could regularly hit 6 inches.

Mine is used with the Edge Pro. Great sharpener.
 
Blues, I'll followup for you.--and. Recently I used the ACE Hardware sic stone a combination on a Bucklite with 425M steel. I had used it a lot
doing some hard pruning (cutting bear-grass). I took it to dull. I brought to the stone and only using the med. side (200 grit) I applied a layer
of vaseline then mineral oil and went to work. Not long later I gently removing the burr. After a little stropping it would slice the length of a
sheet of copy paper. DM
 
David Martin said:
Blues, I'll followup for you.--and. Recently I used the ACE Hardware sic stone a combination on a Bucklite with 425M steel. I had used it a lot
doing some hard pruning (cutting bear-grass). I took it to dull. I brought to the stone and only using the med. side (200 grit) I applied a layer
of vaseline then mineral oil and went to work. Not long later I gently removing the burr. After a little stropping it would slice the length of a
sheet of copy paper. DM
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Thanks, David. :thumbsup:

If you're replying to my question to Wowbagger above, I was just trying to get him to bite, (he's not all that shy, you know), and tell us what his experience was with a "relatively" coarse edge.

I know he prefers to go much finer generally speaking, but was wondering how it performed for him doing the tasks he normally reports on...cutting rubber and plastic and various other media at his workplace as well as home.

Personally, I like a little "tooth" in my edges but can also appreciate the more finely finished edge, though I rarely go too far up the grit ladder myself. (I'm generally quite happy with the finish a brown Spyderco bench stone will leave as a compromise between those two worlds.)
 
Wowbagger said:
Many of the toothy connoisseurs here stop at 400 or so. I've tried that.
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I can sharpen a fresh steel (CTS-XHP, INFI, M390) and push-cut news-print after 110 grit. I then go to 320 and it's all that I really need for casual carry. Toothy? Yeah.
 
The owner of this Takamura R2 gyuto sent me the link to this clip a few days ago, in which he uses a grape to test the new edge on his knife.
I used 2 Paper Wheels with diamond compounds.

 
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