Sharpmaker 203 and Gerber Gator CHEESE knife ;)

Justin Moore

Justin Moore

Joined
Jan 26, 2000
Messages
81
Hi guys,

I just recently purchased a Sharpmaker 203 here at a local store. I have attempted to use it several times to sharpen my old Gerber Gator lockback (not the ATS34), but to no avail. Tried Joe's method of raising a burr on one side of the blade, but couldn't seem to get that to work. Also tried the 20 stroke alternating method described in the instruction manual and it still winds up dull as heck#%)()(%# This knife isn't a very high quality piece to begin with, but I would think I would be able to put at least SOME kind of decent edge on it. I was wondering if the 203's 40 degree angle was perhaps too high for this blade. Overall, I'd have to say that I haven't been very happy using the 203, makes me wish I had got the 204 but I didn't know any better at the time
frown.gif
Anyway, thanks for your time.

JLM
 
I'll try to help here although I'm far from the old pro Sharpmaker user.

I got mine about Nov or so. I found the thing that helped me the most was to get into proper position. A regular table or benchtop is too tall. I found a small table that lets me get the stones down to about my waist when seated. That seems to be best for me to ensure that I'm keeping the knife straight up and down all the time.

Once you have a good position and you are sure you are being consistent with your strokes you should make progress. If you start with the brown stones on edge you will eventually be successful. It may be that you are being forced to change the bevel angle and therefore it feels duller than ever. Just keep being straight and consistent. Sometimes I alternate every other stroke, sometimes I do five or so on each side over and over. If the stones aren't clogged with metal then you should be cutting each time. Eventually it WILL work. Every knife I've tried has worked after some effort.
 
Is this knife a plain edge? It sounds like you have to remove more steel. The 204 can not be more helpful as far how much steel must be removed. The way I see it, which may be wrong, is that your edge is ground higher than the 40 degrees so taking the edge down past that would amount to even more metal removal. Where the 204 is helpful is in thinning down the edge short of the actuall cutting edge which I would stay with the 40 degree. Either way it sounds like more metal removal is required. I like the burr method. This may be a dumb question but have you raised a burr on this knife or any other so you know what to feel for?

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Roger Blake
 
I don't have the Sharpmaker (yet) but I do have the Gator. I can definately say that it does sharpen up quite well, and holds the edge decently (it's not ATS-34 or 154CM or anything, but for what it is I'm impressed). I use the Razors Edge System, which whips it into shaving sharp rather quickly.
 
Justin, I have Gator and Sharpmaker. I don't sharpen gator with sharpmaker but with lansky(I had gator before I got sharpmaker). You have to remove quite a lot metal before you reach the edge at 20 degree angle (that is the angle I put on it with lansky) as the orginal bevel is about 25 degrees. Most non spydercos come with too large edge angle. Speed sleevs would really help the rebeveling of a new knife. Gators edge raises nice burr when you reach the edge. With sharpmaker you should be able to put hairsplitting edge on that knife.



[This message has been edited by Tommi (edited 01-27-2000).]
 
Beam,

Even after reading Joe's FAQ, I am not quite sure I can correctly identify a burr. See if this little diagram makes sense:

BURR
|
|
<====== blade

What's the best way to tell that a burr has formed? I have read several threads that say to drag the blade over your fingernail and that you should be able to feel it catch. Do you drag it along the edge from heel to tip of the blade, or do you drag it perpendicular to your fingernail? Hope you don't mind answering my dumb questions, I am just having a hard time visualing it I guess. Thanks for your time and your help guys
smile.gif


JLM
 
I think the easiest way is to sharpen a regular wood chisel or a carbon steel knife. On a wood chisel you would do a micro bevel, that is hone at a sharper, steeper angle than the regular bevel. This produces a burr fast. The burr is frayed metal that is bent slightly. The edge is thin that it bends to the angle your sharpening on. You can feel it, by pushing your thumb or finger purpendicular across the from the back toward the edge. You want to be careful, the burr is very sharp but it is very weak, too. The burr is harder to feel, but still noticeable in stainless steels, at least IMHO.

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Roger Blake
 
Justin,
One thing that really helped me with my sharpmaker was a black magic marker. I will coat both edges of my knife with the magic marker and start sharpening. I reapply the magic marker throughout the sharpening process. With the magic marker I can tell exactly where the metal is being removed.

To feel a burr try this:
Place your thumb nail on the spine of the blade, drag you thumb nail from the spine to the edge of the knife. Just as your nail goes over the edge you should feel your nail catch on some thing. Thats the burr. Do not run your finger or finger nail along the length of the edge.
Aha I just thought of an easy way to find a burr. Get a cotton ball and wipe the blade from the spine all the way off of the edge. If you have a burr, some cotton fibers will get pulled from the cotton ball and you will be able to see them.
smile.gif
If you dont have any cotton balls try a dish towel.

I hope that this help.




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Shawn R Sullivan
 
Perhaps we are missing the obvious (to those who know). As Sal Glesser has suggested in past thread(s) try rubbing the full length of the stones' corners against each other prior to use. This will effectively remove a "coat" from the stones and an "exposed" surface will provide more bite on the blade edge. If you are not feeling any bite then perhaps the edge is simply gliding down the rods length with no metal removal. Try it.

L8r,
Nakano
 
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