I recently got a sharpmaker but haven't had the chance to use it yet (didn't bring it to college with me). If I remember correctly the directions say to make a 30degree back bevel and then finish off with a 40degree edge. However, I though I also remember in the video Sal said that Spyderco knives come from the factory with a 30degree edge. What angle do all of you sharpen your knives at? Will the edge be significantly less strong if I make a 30degree edge instead of a 40?
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Sharpmaker angles
- Thread starter Russell92
- Start date
- Joined
- May 19, 2002
- Messages
- 353
Honestly I suck with my sharpmaker. It takes me about an hour to get the angle down and keep it straight and then produce an edge that will shave. And even then it may only shave on part of the blade. :grumpy:
But to answer your question I use a 30% back bevel and then 40% finish on my work knife and a 30% finish on my dedicated SD knife. just because it seems to slice through denim and leather better. So if the guy assaulting me has jeans on I don't have to worry about the edge not going through.
A question about the sharpmaker to you guys and gals. When you use the flats do you notice steel on the entire flat of the stone or just on the edges? I have the thing set just like Sal does in the video and yet there is always 10x more steel on the edges on my flats than on the true flat portion. I have to hold the knife kinda pointed off to the side in order to get it to start touching the flat area. Is this just me being a goober?
But to answer your question I use a 30% back bevel and then 40% finish on my work knife and a 30% finish on my dedicated SD knife. just because it seems to slice through denim and leather better. So if the guy assaulting me has jeans on I don't have to worry about the edge not going through.
A question about the sharpmaker to you guys and gals. When you use the flats do you notice steel on the entire flat of the stone or just on the edges? I have the thing set just like Sal does in the video and yet there is always 10x more steel on the edges on my flats than on the true flat portion. I have to hold the knife kinda pointed off to the side in order to get it to start touching the flat area. Is this just me being a goober?
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2004
- Messages
- 1,675
ERINT said:
How can you suck with a Sharpmaker? The blade is supposed to come in contact with the whole flat, when you come to the tip, it helps if you stop while the tip is still on the flat. This helps keep your sharp point.
I think for me there is also more steel on the edges, try to keep your wrist locked and use your arm to stroke it.
Next time you try, try just doing it SLOOOOOOOWLY. Making sure you got good contact on the flats and stop with tip still on flat.
Most of my knives are at 40deg. So I just touch them up every once in a while, with the flats of the white.
"Will the edge be significantly less strong if I make a 30degree edge instead of a 40?"
I think it depends on the steel (?). Steels such as D2/M2 and other hard, hard steels can have less than 30deg, and still hold that edge for a while.
Edit: I have never seen the Sharpmaker vid, I have no VHS and my friend won't convert it for me. Anyone got a DVD or something?
Thanks for the replies so far.
I'm still wondering what angle Spyderco's are sharpened at the factory. Do they all come with a 30degree angle or does it vary depending on the model? I just got a Chinook II and it didn't come all that sharp; I'd like to sharpen it up keeping the same angle it came with but not sure if that's 30 or 40degrees.
I'm still wondering what angle Spyderco's are sharpened at the factory. Do they all come with a 30degree angle or does it vary depending on the model? I just got a Chinook II and it didn't come all that sharp; I'd like to sharpen it up keeping the same angle it came with but not sure if that's 30 or 40degrees.
The one most important thing I have learned about the use of my sharpmaker is that you have to have a sufficient amount of relief ground into the edge.
Most dull knives by the time you decide to sharpen them have really taken quite a few dings. A lot of them you can't see with the naked eye. Therefore you have to grind all of that out. That is why I consider the "Diamond" stones you can buy for that kit indispensible. With about 20 strokes on each side with the Diamond stones at 30 degrees will most of the time get those ruffed up dings out of the edge's apex. Then after that just simply follow the regimen that Sal shows you on the Video that comes with the kit. Also the large booklet gives you a little more detail about the proper sequencial steps you need to use to get that edge it's final honing. When you get the hang of it you will find the Sharpmaker the one honing tool you like best.
Most dull knives by the time you decide to sharpen them have really taken quite a few dings. A lot of them you can't see with the naked eye. Therefore you have to grind all of that out. That is why I consider the "Diamond" stones you can buy for that kit indispensible. With about 20 strokes on each side with the Diamond stones at 30 degrees will most of the time get those ruffed up dings out of the edge's apex. Then after that just simply follow the regimen that Sal shows you on the Video that comes with the kit. Also the large booklet gives you a little more detail about the proper sequencial steps you need to use to get that edge it's final honing. When you get the hang of it you will find the Sharpmaker the one honing tool you like best.
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2003
- Messages
- 726
None of the Spydercos I have had have come from the factory with 30 degree edges. In fact, some were over 40 degrees.
You're right James. I really didn't finish my train of thought on what I was saying about the sharpening regimen. My talk on honing/grinding in the relief at 30 degrees is simply a preparatory step. On your final honing to get your finished edge I do all of that on the 40 degree slots. One other thing I might add. Just as important as using the "Diamond triangle stones" for the 204 Sharpmaker is the "ultra fine" stones you can also buy for that kit. I hardly ever do a sharpening on a blade that I don't also use the "ultra fine" stones to get a really polished hone. To really be a perfectionist with the 204 there is a gadget you can use to test the polished hone of the blade. It is made by Razor Edge Systems out of Ely Minnesota. It is simply called the "edge tester". When you pull the blade down the "edge tester" and feel no roughness what so ever you know you have arrived. Thanks for the reminder James.
Say Keith did you do that step with the fine stone that came with the kit new or did you use the Ultra Fine ( you must buy them extra, they don't come with the kit new)? Now let me tell you I takes a little patience to work with the Ultra Fine stones for the 204 Sharpmaker. The Ultra fine stones are also good just to touch up the fine slots in your Spyderedge serrations in between jobs as well. STAY SHARP
Yeah Keith the "Ultra Fine" stones really make that kit complete and give it a lot of versatility. Don't forget to also get the Diamond stones you can get for that kit. They save you a bunch of time when honing/grinding in relief on a blade when you are doing a total complete sharpening of a really dull knife.
The medium ( gray) stones with the kit will do it but you will be watching a lot of TV and spending a lot time getting the initial relief ground in. I hope that helps you sir.
The medium ( gray) stones with the kit will do it but you will be watching a lot of TV and spending a lot time getting the initial relief ground in. I hope that helps you sir.