Sharpmaker on S30V

I put my spydy cat (S30V) through my sharpmaker. Used the regular stones that come with it.
Came out beautiful. The sharpest knife that I own. The edge that the S30v will hold is crazy sharp.
The blade wasn't all jacked up though, still had a nice edge when I sharpened it.

 

I use a stock sharpmaker with all my s30v blades and it works fine. you really only need the diamond rods if you're sharpening some ridiculously hard steel or doing major reprofiling, or if the blade is really dull.

 

IMO, the Sharpmaker is perfect for maintaining the edges on Spyderco knives. You're not trying to re-profile the edges, just touch them up. Your results may vary, but I don't allow my knives to get really dull. Regular maintenance on the sharpmaker will keep a very sharp edge on your s30v spydies. 5 or 10 very light strokes on the white stones is all mine usually seem to need.

Of course if you let it get real dull or if you are trying to re-profile a bad edge on some other manufacturer's knife then it'll take a lot longer as I'm learning currently with a slipjoint w/ a D2 blade I'm trying to re-profile.

Regular maintenance and you won't have any problems.

 

I don't have the UF rods. I have the white (fine) and brown (coarse) rods that came w/ the sharpmaker and I just got the diamond rods to try to reprofile another knife. Unless money is no object then I would suggest getting the standard system and see if it meets your needs.

Spyderco knives usually come so sharp that very little is required to maintain them. I use very, very light pressure. Sometimes even less pressure than the knife's own weight. For the final strokes I'll just kinda hold the blade against the white stone and let it fall under it's own weight very slowly.

You might want to visit the 'Maintenance' sub forum and read up on stropping.

 

I too have the Sharpmaker and am able to produce a very sharp edge on my CPM S30V blade. I only used the white stones but it took me a while. The reason for that is because I use a marker on the edge and try to work on keeping my strokes even so most of the marker is removed in sync. Again, I also let the blade get pretty dull and I'm sure if I went with the brown stones first, the process would have been faster.

Anyway, I can get my knives to push shave hair off my arms with the standard white stones. I think once I have some extra cash, I'll pick up the UF stones. They pretty much polish the edge and simulate stropping. Thus, they can produce a crazy sharp edge on a knife that is already pretty sharp.

From what I've read, there is no real substitute for stropping. I think the closest you'll get with the Sharpmaker are the UF stones. Since I'm still relatively new to sharpening, I'd like to stick with the Sharpmaker and would invest in the UF stones. I could hold off on a strop for later when I'm more confident in my technique.

 

I've used the UF rods and really the most difference is made when you don't put pressure on the knife to the rod, you just let it slide down on its own. I get scary sharp S90V (and S30V, VG-10, etc) using the UF rods.

 

This Military has been mantained on the SM it's whole life so far, and it's scary sharp!

 

I just received UF rods thanks to a close friend. Whether they're worth it or not depends on how sharp you care to get your knives.

My S30V test piece was my Swick with a reprofiled and polished edge bevel. Off the fine stones it would easily pop hair slightly above the skin. With the UF's I do notice an increase in sharpness, and it's easier IMO to not form a burr when using the UF stones. My swick will easily push cut thin receipt paper an inch or two from the hold and whittle an individual hair multiple times. The UF stones are worth it to me.

I would advise anyone to get acquainted with the standard sharpmaker setup and be able to get edges that cleanly shave using the brown rods before considering the UF stones. Good technique is key.

I think stropping is over-rated. The edge I get after heavy stropping is poopy to me, it can shave arm hair but when I try to slice things it's more prone to sliding around. These days I strop just once per side after I sharpen and any more than that I feel like I'm doing bad things to my edge. I use it to tighten up the edge and remove what little bur may be left (Too small to detect with naked eyes or fingers), but I feel strongly that it's not required and it can easily be overdone. Also, always make sure your strop is freshly loaded with compound if you use one, it makes it so much more effective. I rub it with a compound stick after every 2 or 3 uses. It works equally as well on convex and V edges though, as does the sharpmaker.

Also I'm with you on the two knives setup. My EDC is usually a D2 Military and a serrated H1 Tasman Salt (Soon to be replaced with a Spyderhawk from Santa ). I keep the Millie as sharp as possible, if it doesn't cleanly shave it has to be re-sharpened. The Tasman salt I'm less picky about how sharp it is, but I make sure to maintain the edge. Millie is my go-to knife for most things, but the tasman salt does certain things better and handles any dirtier cutting jobs I come across or rougher cutting that may damage the cutting edge. H1 is super tough, and sometimes my Millie cuts food so I don't want to be cutting certain things with it.