Sharpmaker owners: 30* or 40*?

S

Slowstarter

Joined
Mar 21, 2006
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Hello all Sharpmaker owners. When you sharpen your folders, do you use 30* or 40* and why? Or do you use different * on differnet knives? Please explain.
 
40 as that is what matches the edge on most of my knives. I only use 30 to set back the shoulder when it needs it and then go with a 40 for the micro bevel
 
I've used a Sharpmaker for a few years now. I've found that 40 deg is what works for everything except my Spydercos and my Al Mars. They will all respond nicely to the U/F rods at the 30 deg setting. Benchmades, Sebbies, and my FB all seem to like 40 deg.

Really, though, it's best to check each knife individually and use the setting that works best for the bevels on that knife and for its intended use.
 
dalefuller said:
I've used a Sharpmaker for a few years now. I've found that 40 deg is what works for everything except my Spydercos and my Al Mars. They will all respond nicely to the U/F rods at the 30 deg setting. Benchmades, Sebbies, and my FB all seem to like 40 deg.

Really, though, it's best to check each knife individually and use the setting that works best for the bevels on that knife and for its intended use.
Click to expand...

+1:thumbup:

Most folders go with 40* but my spydercos will go with 30* much better:D
 
Both! On every knife I get, that I plan to keep, I put a 30 degree edge on and then maintain it with a 40 degree micro bevel. I have found this to be the most effective way for me to maintain my edges.
 
A lot of hardcore knifenuts will take their knives to 30º or less, and I've done it few times myself, but for long term ease of maintenance, better wear resistance, and general consistency I've found that 40º works just fine for all my pocketknives. Kitchen knives are 30º. Then if I need razors, I'll buy razors.
 
Both.
For most folders, I use the 40 degree. But, I'm experimenting with the method where I get 30 degree bevel and do touch ups with the 40 degree.
 
I use my DMT aligner kit to reprofile my S30v to about 24-28 degrees. After that I sharpen on the SM with the stones in the 30 degree slots but with a rubber band on top of the stones to squeeze them together for a more acute angle(I find that this matches the bevel I did on my DMT). Then I finish with a microbevel at 30 degrees without the rubber bands.
 
Well if you are watching the vid that comes with the SM you only need to use 40 degree on Spyderco knives...???
 
I primarly use my sharpmaker on CRK knives. Chris recommends 20 degrees per side which = 40 degrees. I find I use the 40 degrees for nearly everything. The bevel is steeper making a more durable edge. Some say it may not be as sharp, but I am very pleased with the 40 degree angle. I only use the 30 degree ( 15 degree each side ) for kitchen knives and very thinly bladed knives, which is rare. Some people like to use both and convex the edge. I do not like doing this as your removing metal higher up on the edge. It may ease in sharpening for touch-ups, but for me personally, I like the stronger, more durable edge a straight 40 degrees gives me. When I got my strider smf, they have a goofy 23 degrees each side angle. I reprofiled it to a straight 40 degrees ( 20 degrees per side ) with the brown stones using the sharpie trick. When I got the edge even on both sides, I switched to the white stones to smooth it out. When done with that, I went to the ultra fine stones. The edge is now mirror polished and looks really cool and is scary hair shaving sharp. Took me about 2 hours.
 
For most of my daily use, I use 40°. I find it more durable.
I do have some knives at 30°. They work fine for slicing.

Side note to OP: If you hold down the alt key while hitting 248 on the number pad, when you let up the alt key you get °. Then you don't have to use the asterisk.
 
I've been using the SM for a while now. I basically do the same thing as others. Use the 30° for kitchen or really thin knives. I mainly use 40° for everything else.

I suggest you try both and see which works better for you. The 30° should produce a shaper edge, however, it might not be durable enough for your use. If this is the case, then the 40° should fit you perfectly.
 
Like they said, typically 40 degrees for everything. I only go to 30 degrees when 40 degrees isn't appropriate, for whatever reason. I also sharpen my axe on it at 40 degrees.

I tried 30 degrees on my Sebenza, just to see what I was missing. Wasn't missing much.

Heck, nowadays, I can't even be bothered to use the fine stones! The brown ones are fine for most of my purposes.
 
All my knives have good steel, so I go with the 30 degree angle. I'm surprised most people seem to like the 40 degree angle.
 
The thing I love about Spydies, is that just about all of them seem to come with a 30 or less degree edge, which makes it easy to maintain it with the 30 degree setting. The only Spyderco I've had that was steeper than that was my Centofante, 30 would only hit the shoulders, so I use 40 on that one because I'm too lazy to reprofile. Many other knife makers seem to have their final edge at a greater than 30 degree angle, which means you can use the brown rods on 30 all day and never touch the edge....

Now that I think of it, I can't tell a difference in 40 and 30 anyways, so it doesn't matter too much :p
 
I only use 30 when 40 is hitting too much of the shoulder of the edge. I do have diamond stones for serious reprofiling but most of the time I just do a quick touch up on the white stones since I try not to let my EDCs get too dull.
 
Most factory grinds on folders are going to be in the 20 degree range on the Sharpmaker.

Reprofiling any of the Newer Steels will take forever on a Sharpmaker even with the Diamond rods... The Brown rods are around 600 grit Whetstone, the diamond rods aren't much better at around 400 grit.... ;)
 
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