Sharpmaker problems...

Architect,
I didn’t have in my mind belt grinder at all. I sharpen my (and other’s) convex edges free hand using DMT Duo-Sharp double-sided (coarse/fine) 8-inche plate and finishing with the set of SPYDERCO ProFiles.
Creating convex edge I tend to shape it at about 45-50 degrees at very-very edge lowering sharpening angle pretty rapidly behind it. In my honest opinion additional edge strength obtained this way is the only reason to go with convex edge at all.
If you are going to sharpen very edge at Sharpmaker’s preset 40 degrees – just create decent back bevel at 30 degrees and come on with additional effort making full-program convex edge! Anyway it will be more than enough convex by nature because nobody can hold strictly consistent blade position even using Sharpmaker.

Working with the Sharpmaker the most important is to be sure that the very-edge sharpening angle matches Sharpmakers preset one. Differently you should reprofile your edge to let it match. Depending on actual sharpening angle this might take a lot of time and effort (significantly less with the set of additional set of diamond rods).

Anyway, the method recommended by Sharpmaker’s manual is not too good for first sharpening (reprofiling) session. FAQ recommended burr method looks way preferable for me.
 
I've almost mastered my sharpmaker and i'm curious if this method is plausible for creating a convex edge.

I start out like normal with 40 degrees and then during the final 15 pairs of back and forth strokes i canter the blade a few more degrees towards each respective stone. e.g. if the stone i'm stroking the edge againsts is on the left, i lean the blade a little to the left.

I know this opens the door for human error though.

Also, has anyone else ever gotten a warped sharpening stone? i bought mine a few months ago, and one of the course stones is pretty curved and twisted a bit too. Doesn't "seem to" mess up the sharpening process but i better get around to replacing it soon.


Redstripe808
 
Redstripe,
About a year ago, I bought a brand new Sharpmaker, and the first thing I noticed when I got it home was that 3 of the 4 rods were ALL TWISTED AND CURVED. I called Spyderco and they didn't really seem to want to replace them. They kept questioning me, as if in doubt like I was out of my mind. I figured it was an unusual problem, and maybe that was why they were so hesitant. They did however offer to send me a whole new set up, but I had to return MY Sharpmaker FIRST. I was then without my Sharpmaker for a couple weeks.
When I received my new Sharpmaker in the mail, I opened it up, and as soon as I got it open, I noticed NOT 3, BUT ALL 4 rods were both bent AND bowed (curved) AGAIN. To this day I have not contacted Spyderco back, because I don't want the hassle. I really wish that their customer service had been better for me at the time, but it just really turned me off to the whole situation.
I am sorry if this offends anyone, but its just the honest truth, and I wish things had worked out different, and I had received a better replacement. The least a company can do is to check and make sure the dang rods are straight before they ship them.
 
Originally posted by Medic1210
If you follow the video and instruction book, you are supposed to alternate your strokes left and right, back and forth. You aren't supposed to sharpen one side until raising a burr. This is how the instructions say to do it, and will keep your edge bevels even. You can, however, sharpen only one side, raising a burr, then switch to the other side to remove the burr, but this isn't what the instructions recommend.

Mike
Click to expand...

The two principal sharpeners I own are a Sharpmaker and a Profile, both by Spyderco. I did spend several years getting what I would call "good" with the Sharpmaker, and still I was a little trepidatious as I decided to invest in a Profile -- after all, would I be able to hold the angle right?

I don't remember what angle the base of the Sharpmaker holds the stones at, but it is certainly not correct for every single knife. This is the main reason I think it is folly to try to switch and alternate strokes from left to right on a Sharpmaker. Unless your knife's edge is perfectly in line with the sharpener's preset angle, you will have to pitch your knife at a different angle *with every switch*! Not only would attempting this be very fatiguing, it would probably be nearly impossible to do accurately. When I use my Sharpmaker, I certainly do sharpen only one side at a time.

Now I mostly use my Profile, which requires a totally freehanded method. First I determine that I am indeed sharpening the edge. Various methods can be used. Sometimes I lie the blade flat on a magazine page, and move it edgeward as though I am sharpening. I gradually increase the angle until it catches the paper as though giving a shaving nick with a safety razor. (Note: this can be done only with an edge that is already pretty sharp. A dull edge will not catch the paper.) Once I find that angle, I keep my wrist cocked at that angle and proceed to sharpen. Now you probably all are familiar with the sweet, smooth rasp of a knife that's being ground along the flat of its edge, and not off one side of its bevel or the other. Even when stopping periodically to break, I can easily find that angle when continuing with the sharpening once I've found it the first time. Hope this helps someone.
 
Originally posted by razorhunter
About a year ago, I bought a brand new Sharpmaker, and the first thing I noticed when I got it home was that 3 of the 4 rods were ALL TWISTED AND CURVED. I called Spyderco and they didn't really seem to want to replace them. They kept questioning me, as if in doubt like I was out of my mind.
.
.
.
When I received my new Sharpmaker in the mail, I opened it up, and as soon as I got it open, I noticed NOT 3, BUT ALL 4 rods were both bent AND bowed (curved) AGAIN. To this day I have not contacted Spyderco back, because I don't want the hassle.
Click to expand...
I recall there were a few threads on this about 2-3 months ago. My rods are curved, bent and have little pockmarks and chips, but I just marked the straightest corners on each rod and use those. Some the bent areas are outrageously bent, and it was making it hard to sharpen blades consistently. Perhaps I should contact Spyderco about this. Sal Glesser will definitely want to make things right.

I also only use the outer hole for each angle setting of the Sharpmaker, since I'm a bit OC about my angles being exactly the same on each side. So one perfect corner out of 6 (for each type of stone) and I'm alright. But still kind of annoyed at the imperfection.
 
I've often wondered... (not going to get out the protracter :rolleyes: )if the angles are indeed the same, i've only used my sharpmaker say 10-15 times and the stones don't fit tightly like they used to.

Maybe that's normal wear, i can deal with that...but

Sal, how about a new coarse stone? :D
 
Originally posted by Buzzbait
Don’t feel bad. I gave up on the SharpMaker flats a long time ago. They're just not worth the aggravation to me. I use the corners, and then the stop.
Click to expand...

This was my experience, as well. I just use the corners and I'm still able to get my knives scary sharp. If I use the flats, I typically end up dulling the edge. Other than that, the Sharpmaker as worked great for me, especially for recurved blades, like the Boa.

Maybe the fixed angle of the Sharpmaker is wrong for your knife. I've never had a Sebenza, so I've not tried one with the Sharpmaker.

Doug
 
Originally posted by Sergiusz Mitin
I would advise to turn it into bench stone mode and to try to “catch the edge” sharpening free hand.
Click to expand...

If you're going to turn your sharpmaker into a benchstone, you might as well get yourself a real benchstone.
 
Well, I hope that the angles of the Sharpmaker are correct for use on the Sebenza. It is, afterall, recommended by CRK on their website, which is part of the reason why I bought it. Maybe I'll just use the corners of the stones and up the number of strokes.
 
Architect :

Got to Chris Reeve's website and they recommend using a Spyderco Sharpmaker.
Click to expand...

That is a pretty poor recommendation. It makes little sense to apply a convex edge to a knife and then recommend sharpening with a v-bevel. If that is the case then ship it with a v-bevel.

Most of us don't have a belt grinder handy for convex sharpening.
Click to expand...

You don't need it. All you need is a piece of sandpaper. Even a flat hone will do, though that takes a little more skill than the sandpaper.

-Cliff
 
You have me intertested now Cliff - how do a get a convex edge on my Sebenza with a piece of sandpaper please?
 
Lay the sandpaper on something with a little give like a mousepad, dense foam, thick leather, etc. . Stroke the blade edge trailing on the paper, because the backing is soft and can deform, it will adjust its shape to fit the edge. It is very forgiving to angle slop and force variations. For a high polish you will want to finish with CrO paper, or just load a piece of leather with a block of the abrasive, you can get a lifetime supply for a few dollars.

-Cliff
 
Thanks cliff - I guess it is too late now that I have sharpened it on my sharpmaker a couple of times?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top