Sharpness test

[Blade Lab]

Give it a try, sharpen a kitchen knife down to about 2000 grit, this is where I like my kitchen knives with a bit of toothiness, and it will slice ripe tomatoes with ease. Then sharpen that same knife up to 8 - 12,000 grit and strop on 0.25 mic paste, this will shave like no tomorrow, slit hairs etc, but will struggle on a tomato.
The skin on the tomato, especially cherry tomatoes are rubbery and smooth and require that bit of toothiness to initially tear the skin to start the cut.

I've tried it, and a really sharp mirror edge will slice a tomato like there's no tomorrow. But, as Chalby said, as soon as you lose that hair-whittling bite, the polished edge will skate.

FWIW, I don't consider 2000 grit to be a toothy edge. To me, toothy is an edge in the 300-500 grit range.

 

[chalby]

Give it a try, sharpen a kitchen knife down to about 2000 grit, this is where I like my kitchen knives with a bit of toothiness, and it will slice ripe tomatoes with ease. Then sharpen that same knife up to 8 - 12,000 grit and strop on 0.25 mic paste, this will shave like no tomorrow, slit hairs etc, but will struggle on a tomato.
The skin on the tomato, especially cherry tomatoes are rubbery and smooth and require that bit of toothiness to initially tear the skin to start the cut.

Generally I like to finish my kitchen knives on a 3K Chosera(well, the Gouken Arata, but same thing) and then a few strops on 1 micron diamond on tanned leather because I find it has a great versatile edge for most things I need in the kitchen. And I agree, it will slice most anything with ease. A 2000 grit finish would be similar.

I don't do it often, because it is more time consuming for diminishing returns IMO, but I have finished on 8000 grit and then stropped on multiple diamond compounds down to 0.5 micron and can push cut through tomatoes. You may have had different experiences, but if I was struggling to cut through tomato skin after those steps I would be assuming I have somehow rounded the edge or otherwise ruined the apex. OK, maybe you could argue that there might be somewhat of a toothy finish left after that, but I am confident that a good polished edge should handle tomatoes no problem.

I wish I had a few higher grit stones to test this more, but can't afford it

 

[Stockman]

I've tried it, and a really sharp mirror edge will slice a tomato like there's no tomorrow. But, as Chalby said, as soon as you lose that hair-whittling bite, the polished edge will skate.

FWIW, I don't consider 2000 grit to be a toothy edge. To me, toothy is an edge in the 300-500 grit range.

You are correct sir, a 300-500 edge is definately text book definition of a toothy edge, my 2000 edges as mentioned, have a "bit of toothiness" and just seem to be the sweet spot for how I like my Kitchen knives, especially carbon steels like Japanese Blue and White steels. Hey Chalby, with you on the 2-3k range for the kitchen, its right on the money and easily touched up after a prep. Have a dozen or so stones from 5 k and upwards that collect dust.
Maybe its the small Cherry tomato's that I cut don't draw cut as well on highly refined edges, push cutting diagonally on a board might give a different result, but was referencing "draw cuts" as per the OP's original post.

 

[chalby]

You are correct sir, a 300-500 edge is definately text book definition of a toothy edge, my 2000 edges as mentioned, have a "bit of toothiness" and just seem to be the sweet spot for how I like my Kitchen knives, especially carbon steels like Japanese Blue and White steels. Hey Chalby, with you on the 2-3k range for the kitchen, its right on the money and easily touched up after a prep. Have a dozen or so stones from 5 k and upwards that collect dust.
Maybe its the small Cherry tomato's that I cut don't draw cut as well on highly refined edges, push cutting diagonally on a board might give a different result, but was referencing "draw cuts" as per the OP's original post.

The thing I've noticed with polished edges, is that they seem to need stropping to keep sharp. Using a steel seems, IME, to ruin the edge pretty quick. A 2-3K edge seems to me to be more resilient and easily maintained whether I use a strop or honing steel.

As far as testing my edges, I use phone book paper. You can hear how the edge cuts(louder tearing sound generally means the edge needs more refinement) and especially if you cut slowly through the paper and change directions you can pin point where there are any imperfections. I often do this test before going to the strop and touch up with the finishing stone if needed. I try to minimize the strokes on the strop as much as possible unless chasing the mirror edge when I use a progression.