Sheath split!

MacHete

MacHete

Hair Cropper & Chipmunk Wrangler
Joined
Apr 7, 2000
Messages
2,559
Yeow! I have a 12" siru that has always been reluctant to return to it's sheath. It draws easily enough, but I remember when I first got it, that I nearly poked the tip through the spine side of the leather. I just looked at it today, and noticed about a 2" split in the leather on the blade side. Not a good thing! :eek:

I'm thinkin' I'm probably past the do-it-yourself stage of repair, but I'm game to follow any suggestions you guys might offer. :) Thanks.
 
I'd like to see what comes of this thread. I still have a torn movie model sheath.

Terry Sisco seemed about the best bet.




munk
 
A wire wrap would do nicely and be very stylish. Alternatively, you could do a "Kentucky Khukri"...200 mph tape comes in a wide assortment of colors!
 
After I sharpened my Ak Bowie it cut through the blade side of the sheath.

Roadrunner had a very practical way to fix a messed up sheath. Maybe he'll read here and post a pic of it. ;)
 
I have a couple of those types of sheaths. You insert the blade halfway, stop and have to point the tip towards the tip of the sheath and then complete the insertion.

I haven't poked through a sheath yet, though I probably will in the future. I reckon I could make a cardboard and duct tape sheath for the one or two I use regularly at home. I lack the skill for leatherworking. :( The other one's I guess I'd have to be carful during the resheathing process.

Does anyone have any pics of the wire wrap fix?
 
Here's my ghetto sarki solution. The leather is gone, it's just wood and duct tape. Surprisingly it works quite well.

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Buy enough off eBay and you get to look at the innards of lots of khukuri sheaths because many are in the last stages of falling apart ("Some problems with sheath").

Most have the wood carved to totally encase the blade. The leather would seem to be sewed on wet, letting it shrink to hold the wood together. Made that way, the blade encounters wood, not leather.

I'm going to try to build one if I can find suitably thin leather. Suggestions on sources?
 
I was surprised at just how thin the leather they use is...how do they get it so thin off a buffalo??
 
Thanks for the sympathy, empathy and smart-a$$ed answers guys. ;) ("Kentucky Khukuri"- I was an Ohioan like you until 18 months ago- now I'm about to become a West Virginian. I'm slowly slippin' south.) :eek: :D :confused:

I don't know why this didn't occur to me before, but perhaps it's time I tried my hand at kydex! :cool: It'll be a while before i can do it, so a spare shoelace is going to have to keep it tight for now. :rolleyes:
 
Thomas Linton said:
I'm going to try to build one if I can find suitably thin leather. Suggestions on sources?
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Thom you can get suitable leather at most any leather retail outfit. Tandy's will have it. Look for 4-5 or 5-6 ounce leather. An ounce is equal to 1/64th of an inch so 4-5 ounces is .0625" - .0781" and the 5-6 is from .0781 to 0938" or 3/32" and if it was me I would shoot for the 4-5 ounce for a first time project. If it was really me I would go for the thicker since I've had more experience.;)
I think that's what T-Bone used on my Foxy Folly and it turned out beautifully.

In answer to Nasty's question about getting leather that thin off of a water buffalo... Bro the thick leather is generally "split" in several thicknesses for different purposes as there is more of a call for thinner leathers. An inside piece of split leather is called simply a "split.":D
When you're here over the weekend I'll show you a split. They get it down pretty damned thin!!!!:eek:
A split is, of course, rough on both sides, but not too rough and when tumbled soft it greatly resembles a piece of brain tanned leather except for the thickness. An inside split of 5-6 ounce leather tumbled would appear to be brain tanned to the untrained eye. I only know a little about the wonderful world of leather.:rolleyes: :D ;)
 
good replies so far......go for the kydex, Mac! Just follow the tutorial....:rolleyes:
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HD- IIRC, you told me you were near Huntington? If that's the case, it won't be too far. I'm headed for the Charleston area, around St. Albans. :)

Pen- It was your tutorial that gave me the notion. :cool:
 
hollowdweller said:
I work in Charleston. Near the mall. I live about 15 min from St. Albans. Grew up in Nitro. Be sure and check out Mountain Stage when you get here. Great live radio show www.mountainstage.org
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Cool! I'll do that. I'll have a full-time native tour guide when I get there. ;) She'll have me up to speed in no time, I'm sure. :D btw- I'll be looking for a job when I get there. Any ideas? :confused:
 
Hey Dan...ever consider doing a skeletonized sheath for a big Khuk? Solid back, wrapped around the edge and back, the window portion up the middle of the side of the blade so the side shows through a 1-2" slot up the side?

It seems that it would be really easy to make and would look cool as heck!
 
I have many skills- most of them undocumented. :( I am currently a QA guy, certified to do fluoroscopic inspections. I have manufacturing experience in foundry operations, assembly work, paint and powder coating, inventory and safety auditing. I have management and supervisory experience in retail, manufacturing and general labor. I can bore sight a rifle, set up and tune a bow, build, repair and tune bicycles, drill bowling balls, install bindings on and tune skis, install basketball goals, home gyms and ping-pong tables, set up and repair treadmills, drive a forklift and other light equipment, weld a little, use and maintain a spectrometer, radiometer and coordinate measuring machine, and I juggle a little. :D

Whatcha got? I'd like full-time, but I might get by on part-time if I exploit the largesse of my soon-to-be bride. :footinmou I'll be trying to get back to school asap anyway, and I'll probably only work part-time then. I welcome all suggestions! :eek:
 
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