sheath trouble

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foxbat34

Joined
Dec 26, 2008
Messages
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Im having trouble when dying my sheaths, I cant seem to get an even color it always seems splotchy (is that a word?). Maybe I am missing something. I am using 8oz leather from Tandy with Fibing dye. I cut to size and do some tooling then apply the dye. I have read some, but I cant find alot of info on sheath making. (Im sure its there Im just not looking in the right places).

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
To get a nice even dye job, I first wet the leather using a spray bottle with plain water. Just spray the leather until its damp, let it sit a minute, spray some more if it still feels really dry. At this point the leather should be damp, but not wet. Now apply your dye. I use a paint brush. Pour the dye into a container, and apply with a brush until evenly coated.
 
I've heard the wetting helps but haven't tried it yet. I wipe the leather down with isopropyl alcohol first, which is supposed to remove glaze and help moisten the leather (per the Chuck Burrows DVD), but I usually end up doing several coats to try to re-do the lighter areas that didn't take the first time around.

I had bad experiences wiping with alcohol and immediately using EcoFlo water based dye, so I would recommend against that method with that dye. I used Fiebings Pro Oil on my last sheath and it worked beautifully.
 
Some of the tandy leather doesnt seem to take dye well, I dilute my dye to a lighter color and then apply a heavy coat, and then make another application once that is pretty dry. Have had some leather from tandy that just did not take dye in some areas. When I cut a test piece from the hide I found the same area would also not take dye.
 
Probably NOT your problem but I generally do my carving AFTER applying the dye.

also, Tandy is ok for an occasional sheath but their really not all that great a quality of leather

check out
www.siegelofca.com I really like their leather much better but you'll have to order a whole piece (generally around $50 for 7/8oz)

I also dilute my dye with plain alcohol and apply AFTER casing the leather.
 
STEPHAN thanks for the link i need alternate source tandy s high quality isnt very good and expensive . I am looking into shipping right now to canada. It may not be feasable. thanks anyway. What i do with my tandy leather is soak in warm not hot water for 5 min at least and use a small sponge paint brush. The Dabbers are ok but not as good as the sponge you can also just dilute the dye with some water but still soak the leather first. This evens out the dye. Im using feilbings as well . kellyw
 
I forgot to mention you have to towel dry the leather, and then your good to go. here are some i made in the last 2 weeks
HPIM0702.jpg
HPIM0715.jpg
 
I was under the impression that Wickett and Craig wouldn't deal with individuals, I.E. they required a Tax ID
Click to expand...
Not at all W-C works with anyone tax ID or not - I reckon you are thinking of Weaver Leather which is wholesale only.

W-C currently has their 8/10 oz Tooling/Holster double shoulders (average 14 sq ft) on sale for $50.00 which they will split to lighter weights if desired.

They are not listed on the website - call them

1-800-826-6379 EXT 216 is Matt Bressler or EXT 222 is Glen Proud

Light and dark areas after dying are in fact some what normal with today's leather. I deglaze as noted with alcohol, and while still damp SATURATE the leather with dye - those fuzzy wuzzy daubers are good for only touch ups or small areas - use a sponge or piece of wool and sop the dye on or dip dye, my own preferred method - thin before hand and apply in a lighter shade then darken as need be.
ALso applying a LIGHT coat of oil or two and letting set for 24-48 hours will also often even out a dye job and if not you can re-dye over the oil if need be - if dying over oil though be sure and use a GOOD sealer aterwards such as one of the acrylics like Resolene or a resin based one like Tan or Bag Kote. Otherwise over time as the oil evaporates it will "push" the dye particles back to the surface and you will get the dreaded rub-off.
 
Thanks for the help. Another question, is 8oz the norm or could I go with a little lighter leather?
Also how wet does the leather need to be before adding dye?
Kelly do you completely saturate your leather?
 
I had the same problem and I used only the highest grade leather Tandy had....my problems quit when I did two things...I switched to the alcohol based Fiebings dye...not the oil base. I also wet the leather down with the "97%" alcohol...then apply the alcohol dye. All my local leather experts have told me to do it this way, and not to use much dye. One of the side benefits of the alcohol based dye as it has never leached onto my stag handled knives while in the finished sheath. That happened all the time in fully dried oil based dyed sheaths! Especially with mastadon ivory for some reason. The alcohol based dye also just plain went on more evenly....

My two cents worth. Also, don't go lighter than 8 oz...and go a little heavier if you can...
 
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