Leather Sheaths. Are they a necessary evil?

Over here in Germany I can order smaller pieces of quality leather, about the size needed for one sheath.
You should be able to find something simular
 
This might be a solution to coughing up big bucks for a shoulder. Pre-Cut kits save time and no wasted material very cost effective. With a couple of these you have a pattern to work from for the future and can build a set of pants now for knives in process....something to think about......http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/ja104k.htm...
 
I started out making Kydex because it seemed “easier.” The reality is I think Kydex is one of those things that’s easy to do and hard to do right. I didn’t really enjoy the process of making the kydex, and I don’t personally like a Kydex sheath as much as a leather sheath even done right. That made the entire process pretty unsatisfactory, and every Kydex sheath I made damaged the handle of blade of the knife I put in it (connected to them not being well made). I’ve just recently started messing around with leather, and I am enjoying the entire process much more. I just do this for fun (I’m not sure if I’ll ever actually sell a knife), so that’s a big deal for me. It’s gone from a chore to something I look forward to. At one point I just thought about what shape to forge the blade, then a handle was the chore. Then I started to enjoy handle making and tried to plan blade and handle together. Now I’m trying to pre plan blade, handle, and sheath as a full envisioned package before I start and enjoy the journey there.

Tandy runs sales on shoulders pretty regularly. Get on their mailing list and you can get some good deals. It’s all te little tools that add up. Luckily a friend had most of the tools and is letting me borrow much of what I need until I build up my own tool collection. It’s one of those things where having the right tools makes a big difference.
 
Our own Paul Long (sheathmaker here on Blade Forums), has a series of DVDs on making sheaths. Many folks over in Sheaths and Such got started with Paul's DVDs. Sheaths and Such itself is a tremendous resource. There is a sticky at the top with tutorials that would be very helpful. Also I would recommend just reading the posts. Go back pages and pages. Don't just read the how tos or the how do I do this threads. Read them all. Often times back on pg3 on a post someone might ask how did ya do this and ya'll find a great answer. Sheaths and Such is also a great place to ask questions. There is a ton of info there just for the asking.

Quality leather has been mentioned several times in this post and I can't stress that enough. Unfortunately quality leather is expensive. Springfield Leather will sell small pieces of quality leather. Buying small pieces like that is the most expensive way of buying it but will save you buying a whole side. I would recommend either Herman Oak or Wicket and Craig. Both are premium American tanneries producing some of the finest vegetable tanned leather in the world. 7/8 Oz weight is about right for most sheaths. It is really true you can't make a decent sheath from poor leather.
 
I offer that option of kydex with a tek-lok or a leather sheath for a little more money. For kitchen knives, I ask if they have a way of storing it, since many already have a block or rack. If they want a saya, I charge for that, if not, I make a cardstock slip case no charge.
 
I struggled a lot more with sheaths before I got the Paul long DVDs. Secondly, you need a good round knife that is SHARP. Same with a good skiving knife. Sharp, sharp, sharp! That’s 70% of the battle. You can’t make a good sheath if you can’t cut the leather smoothly or precisely.
 
Sheaths are a necessary evil, for sure. You need to make a sheath that's commensurate in value to the knife. If you're making rough $150 knives, you can get away with some yucky sheath work. If you want to sell a $400 hunter, you'd better have good leather, IMO. Whether you learn the skills or buy from skilled leather workers is a personal decision you'll have to make. I learned to do leather, although I find no joy in it. As it turns out, I typically end up doing leather in front of the TV, at times when I wouldn't be working on knives anyway. The profit margin is lower than for knife work, but I'm still making money in what would otherwise be idle time.
 
lanternnate said:
I started out making Kydex because it seemed “easier.” The reality is I think Kydex is one of those things that’s easy to do and hard to do right. .
Click to expand...
that sums it up nicely. I thought the same thing, turns out I was wrong. Its hard to make a really nicely fitting kydex sheath that dosnt rattle but still dosnt touch the blade.. Without practice and the right tools anyway..
 
Wow thanks for the great advice everyone. I knew paul long was the master sheath maker but didn't know he had dvds. I normally watch a YouTube video while making a sheath and it helps. I have most if the basic tools. I need to spend more time at sheaths and such. I've read through the WIP and what not.
Biggest issue is just getting everything squared and smooth
 
valknut said:
Wow thanks for the great advice everyone. I knew paul long was the master sheath maker but didn't know he had dvds. I normally watch a YouTube video while making a sheath and it helps. I have most if the basic tools. I need to spend more time at sheaths and such. I've read through the WIP and what not.
Biggest issue is just getting everything squared and smooth
Click to expand...


Even if you have a round knife from Tandy, you need to refine the geometry. Leather knives are so thin that they make kitchen knives feel like blunt axes.

Here’s a WIP by TK Steingass. https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/a-round-knife-wip.1540597/

I have four heat treated ready for grinding. I plan to put them up for sale once I grind them.
 
A well made sheath is absolutely necessary for a knife that's going to be carried. And the sheath will be seen by far more people than the knife it's self.
MJaTpXe.jpg
 
Jason Fry said:
Sheaths are a necessary evil, for sure. You need to make a sheath that's commensurate in value to the knife. If you're making rough $150 knives, you can get away with some yucky sheath work. If you want to sell a $400 hunter, you'd better have good leather, IMO. Whether you learn the skills or buy from skilled leather workers is a personal decision you'll have to make. I learned to do leather, although I find no joy in it. As it turns out, I typically end up doing leather in front of the TV, at times when I wouldn't be working on knives anyway. The profit margin is lower than for knife work, but I'm still making money in what would otherwise be idle time.
Click to expand...

I don’t enjoy the leather work, and I do more kitchen knives than carry knives by easily 4:1. My leather experience is lagging far behind my steel experience. I have a friend interested in leather work, and he’s learning to make sheaths. We’ve done a few weekends where I’ve shown him the process, and he’s getting better.
 
Last time we broke down and ordered a whole hide from Wickett & Craig. Very nice leather but even at that there are small parts of that hide not suitable for a sheath. That's just the way it is when dealing with a natural material. This was Veg tanned, next time we may go with a nice drum tanned brown or the like.
 
Horsewright said:
Are you talking square and smooth edges Justin Schmidt Justin Schmidt
Click to expand...
Yeah just making both sides line up when it's folded. Like Warren said a round knife would likely solve this problem. And when I drill the holes to stitch it goes all cattywompas.
Warren I'll keep my eye out for one of those

ETA : I have yet to see a good how to make a template.
 
valknut said:
Yeah just making both sides line up when it's folded. Like Warren said a round knife would likely solve this problem. And when I drill the holes to stitch it goes all cattywompas.
Warren I'll keep my eye out for one of those
Click to expand...
Do you have stitching hole punches? I find it’s easier to keep good straight hole alignment with these rather than a drill. Then you widen the hole with the awl while stitching to get your needle room to pass through. For me at least, leather seems to be one of those few things that’s easier to do well with hand tools rather than power tools. I tried doing some stitching holes with my drill press to be faster and on the backside the holes came out all over the place.
 
Cut oversize, glue parts together. Sand even and square, then make your stitching groove. That's how I do my Slotted and Horizontal sheaths. Horizontal bottom and Slotted right. Bottom stitching line is established on both after the sheath is together and edge sanded even.

T41MMe6.jpg
 
valknut said:
Yeah just making both sides line up when it's folded. Like Warren said a round knife would likely solve this problem. And when I drill the holes to stitch it goes all cattywompas.
Warren I'll keep my eye out for one of those

ETA : I have yet to see a good how to make a template.
Click to expand...

I use a machine sewing needle from Tandy in the drill press rather than using a twist drill. It goes straighter, and burnishes the hole rather than tearing the leather.

https://www.tandyleather.ca/en/product/leather-sewing-machine-needle

The Paul along DVD’s show the template creation process.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top