shift in how i view knives

If I had the chance to buy a given folder (say, a 950 Rift, or Endura) in the steel that is available, or carbon, I'd choose carbon. I know how to take care of it, and I know how to sharpen a knife.

I'd always take carbon over s30v. I do love m4 though. I find it easy to work with and reprofile.

Your revelation is probably common for people that are frustrated with sharpening super steels then try carbon. It's just a pleasure to work with.
 
I don't know. I love carbon but I don't see it taking an edge any better then my S30V knives. By your own admission you may not be liking the better stainless steels because of your sharpening ability. Carbon also isn't all that great when cutting acidic foods. Stainless spanks them in that regard. Frankly the only reason I'm using carbon steels is because I like how they patina. IME they don't outperform a good stainless. Unless we're talking choppers.
 
Carbon steel is fantastic. Many of my personal knives are 1095, etc.

I have several clients that only purchase carbon steel blades; they have zero interest in any stainless.
 
I would LOVE to see a shift in modern folders where makers and manufacturers offered carbon steel as an option. I don't think there is anything magical with carbon steel, but I find that I have a much easier time sharpening it generally and can get it sharper more quickly.
 
I had sort of the same thing happen when I got my first opinel. though it didn't necessarily shift my overall view on steel and knives, it just added another dynamic to it. I still value modern super steels, but love a simple carbon steel right alongside them.
 
The ONLY thing ive run into with Carbons(just like the OP's the one I had was also a Old Hickory Butcher knife(strange isnt it) and I also loved it BUT I also always got chips and or nicks in the blade and its really the only blade ive had that that happens with..I can get it SUPER sharp but use it now for "light duty" work only.
 
The ONLY times I've ever gotten edge damage on carbon steel blades is from accidentally hitting rocks or nails with a machete.
 
goodeyesniper said:
I had sort of the same thing happen when I got my first opinel. though it didn't necessarily shift my overall view on steel and knives, it just added another dynamic to it. I still value modern super steels, but love a simple carbon steel right alongside them.
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I agree I love my forum skyline in s30v its pretty hard to kick that out of my pocket just because it requires such little maintenance it stays shaving sharp for months and always looks pretty I don't ever really have to check it for corrosion and rarely sharpen it. But for extreme sharpness it can't beat carbon steel. ( at least given my sharpening skills)
 
tknife said:
I would LOVE to see a shift in modern folders where makers and manufacturers offered carbon steel as an option. I don't think there is anything magical with carbon steel, but I find that I have a much easier time sharpening it generally and can get it sharper more quickly.
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Why would they offer a carbon steel when there are equally easy to sharpen stainless steels like AUS-8 or sandvik? I just can't see any benefit to carbon when compared to a stainless in any category except big choppers. And even there I think stainless is catching up.
 
crimsonfalcon07 said:
(http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/765305-Hey-why-is-your-clay-hardened-blade-so-much)
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The polishing he did could have been done better using a different material for "finger polishing".

About a year ago a buddy in the States sent me a small bag of powder. This powder was from natural japanese waterstones, approximately 30,000 grit equivalent and a small portion of it was from steel that had been grinded on that stone. You mix this powder with icy cold water and end up with a thick sludge. Use a soft cotton swabs or rice paper, and use it to polish your sword. It's far cheaper than actually buying expensive water stones. The stones are of course better.

He explained when he learned the traditional way of japanese polishing that some polishers instead of buying expensive $5,000 stones (provided they could find them) they utilize the remains of the polishing job on their previous stone at times.
He said he believes the steel mixed in (usually rusted by now) exhibits oxidation while the powder polishes, the water mixed in helps keep the sword the sword from rusting too fast. What you end up with is something that really makes the hamon pop out. Similar to vinegar etching but better and ends up giving a nice shiny polish outside of the hamon while still leaving the whitish activity in the hamon.
 
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