Shiny Steel

Shavru

Shavru

Joined
Feb 20, 2014
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2,045
When I got my IBBB after it had been passed through the hands of some very talented craftsmen here it was so beautiful and shiny. It was much brighter than any of the other HI's I have in my small but growning collection. Now that I have been using it a bit, I am finding that it is getting dulled with tape gunk. Not just the sharpness but the shinyness as well. Once I fix the sharpness issue I would really like to take it back to the super extra shiny polish that it had when I recieved it. Anyone have any suggestions for the best way to properly polish the entire blade? Would it be the same basic concept as polishing a Katana (No I don't mean a classic Nihonto, those I would NEVER polish myself and ruin.) And anyone have a miracle polish they recommend or one they recommend I avoid?
 
Shavru,
When I had your blade I used Simichrome polish on it, it does a very nice job and will polish almost anything, it takes off the oxidation and gives a nice shine to the blade, been using it for years and is one of the best metal polishes out IMHO.
 
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If it gets too bad and you have access to a buffing wheel, pink stainless compound comes very close to the HI finish.
Pugs, good to know that. I've used nevrdull, but mostly what it does is smell bad.
 
Ill try that Semichrome Pugs Thanks for the tip! I have used Nevrdull on motorcycle chrome, aluminum, and nickel parts and it works pretty good but i havent been able to find it lately. Now I use some green chromium looking stuff called Zam. Comes as a round brick in a tube. I used to use it for polishing gemstones but tried it on metal and even plastic and it will put a mirror finish on lots of stuff.
I tore up an old garbage disposal yesterday in attempt to make a polishing wheel so I might try the pink stainless compound as well.
 
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Thanks guys,
Great to know Pugs, I really liked the result you got on the IBBB. I have in the past used Metal-glo. It left a very nice finish, but reminded me a lot of polishing brass in the military... I guess there is a reason the good old fashioned elbow grease way is still used. But I remember working my uniform brass the polish compound would leave swirls in the metal. We used to "spin" the brass disks so the grooves would fit the shape of the disk instead of going across the piece. I was sort of afraid of causing that type of damage to the polished finish.

JW, I don't have a real buffing wheel, I do have a dremel and a drill and could get a buffing wheeel for eithere of those. But then I wonder if they are good choices since they aren't anchored I am concerned with damaging either the blade or myself if it goes horribly wrong. Basically I guess I would probably need some sort of stand to hold the drill/dremel in the right position for working on it. At that point I starting thinking bench grinder with swappable wheels might work best then I start thinking about where to put it as I don't have a work bench these days, and the garage doesn't have space for one. Then I get side tracked. Then I think "I wonder if I could just use my drill or dremel" and round and round I go LOL.
 
Shavru my experience with dremel and die grinder is that mounting it actually makes it harder to use and makes it harder to see your work. This is my opinion only but I have literally thousands of hours of dremel and die grinding time. Im not so fond of the drill attachment like the small buffing wheels etc because they are so messy and most of the stuff in that size you buy at big box stores is so cheaply made that youll spend more time running back to the store to replace stuff. Drills have torque and speed problems as far as polishing goes. I have a rotary tool for lapidary work and it has a flexible shaft but is much the same as a dremel as far as attachments. I make most of my polishing attachments since i practically live in a machine shop. I cut a plastic disk, stick a 1/4" (much smaller for dremel) shaft in it, place a sticky rubber furniture pad on it and Super 77 a regular cutout piece of sandpaper on it. If I was in your position I think id bypass all the drill stuff etc and get a bench grinder. Would be cheaper in the longrun also. Im trying to set one up myself but im too cheap to go buy one right now. Im still in the doghouse ya know thanks to that YCS, E-toh, Vim AKB.and ... Nuthing wrong with a well stocked doghouse:D
 
Shavru said:
Thanks guys,
Great to know Pugs, I really liked the result you got on the IBBB. I have in the past used Metal-glo. It left a very nice finish, but reminded me a lot of polishing brass in the military... I guess there is a reason the good old fashioned elbow grease way is still used. But I remember working my uniform brass the polish compound would leave swirls in the metal. We used to "spin" the brass disks so the grooves would fit the shape of the disk instead of going across the piece. I was sort of afraid of causing that type of damage to the polished finish.

JW, I don't have a real buffing wheel, I do have a dremel and a drill and could get a buffing wheeel for eithere of those. But then I wonder if they are good choices since they aren't anchored I am concerned with damaging either the blade or myself if it goes horribly wrong. Basically I guess I would probably need some sort of stand to hold the drill/dremel in the right position for working on it. At that point I starting thinking bench grinder with swappable wheels might work best then I start thinking about where to put it as I don't have a work bench these days, and the garage doesn't have space for one. Then I get side tracked. Then I think "I wonder if I could just use my drill or dremel" and round and round I go LOL.
Click to expand...

I don't recommend that you get a real buffing wheel set-up unless you want to get real serious about buffing because they are the most dangerous piece of equipment in a shop. I've had a knife grabbed out of my hands and hit the floor with such force that you kinda just stand there in disbelief of what just happened for a second or two.

Use the dremel with a 3" buffing wheel and a rouge. Using a large pencil eraser may bring it to a suitable working finish also. Have fun!
 
Yes Rhino that is correct! I agree 1000%. I sometimes assume since we are in a knife forum that disclaimer is not necessary but in this case i have to admit there are many things that can go very wrong. Ill also add proper safety attire. Eye protection always. Thanks for adding that!
 
I went over that knife with Simichrome too when I first got it. I sometimes use Flitz also, used both for years as well.
After taping the blade and handling it working the handle I should have done it again. A combination of being lazy, not wanting to delay it's travels and knowing Pugs would be handling the heck out of it too I just sent it on.

I totally agree with Rhino and Ndog too. A polishing wheel on a bench grinder can be a missile launcher, I've done it too. It's way faster but definitely gotta keep your wits about ya. I'm no expert on polishing. I use my dremel far more than the buffing wheel.

I usually just apply McGuires paste car wax like waxing a car and that shines it up pretty good too.
 
I wear a full hide leather apron that hands down pass my knees to protect the family jewels and my abdomen & arteries in my legs when in my shop and especially when buffing. I know a man that almost severed his thumb by thinking, "Oh I'll just do a quick pass on the handle of this sharpened knife."

Any kind of auto or floor wax works great as a protector for field knives & choppers. You want to be more selective if you are going to be eating off of it. Plain paraffin wax works great for food knives.
 
LoL, Once upon a time I had a beautiful workshop. Then I got married and when I moved up here the house we wound up buying is small and no room. And the garage, Well I guess if I tell you the house was built in 1990 then that will explain how pathetic the garage is. We can barely get 2 sports cars and 1 freezer and a couple pantry cabinets into it. My workbench is in some self-store place hiding under piles of boxes of stuff. Even the work truck is out in the sideyard with only a small cover over it. I am definately aware of the penchant for object near grinding wheels to become missles. I have never done it myself but in Hhigh school since I didn't take home ec I took metal shop. During my Sophmore year we had a guy fire the screwdriver he was making into his shoulder. Gruesome and could have been much worse. Yes, care around griding/buffing wheels is definately mandatory.
 
Not just bench grinders i might add! I launched a piece of wood into the living room once from the garage via table saw. Didnt even have to use the door! I was a dangerous Kid! I was making a glass blowgun once and decided to use compressed air to propel a stainless steel dart with teflon washers. Well it was found in the back of the TV in the next room. Went through a steel drum full of trash and the wall and into the back of the TV. Luckily it was such a tiny hole no one ever noticed it. Glad no one was home:rolleyes:
 
I have several horror stories involving table saws as launch pads. Got 3 fingers on the right hand that will probably never be the same neither but they look ok.

The kick back is what usually gets me. All the years working as a contractor had very few problems, this nickel and dime home owner tinkering seems to want to kill me.
 
I forgot to mention a product called Bombs Away, this stuff is really good as well, alittle expensive but worth it. I used to use it on motorcycles and its great on all metal. I also agree with the others on the buffing wheel, it can be a very dangerous tool of not used properly.
 
All very good info guys. Thanks again. I think I will probably pass on th bench grinder as I really don't have a place to put it. Even my husband has certain lines he won't let me cross like bolting a bench grinder on the kitchen counter. Until we can afford to build the workshop building we have had in the planning stages for well. hmm, guess it has been 12 years now LOL time flies when you keep spending money on bright shiny metal objects instead of workshops... Anyways, I think I will get some simichrome and give it a try. Hopefully I can get close to the result Pugs managed on the IBBB. If I can even get close I will be very happy.
 
If you are the patient sort, and with knives it is wise to be so, get a couple of mouse pads and impregnate them with buffing compound. then buff the blade by drawing it across the pad, spine first, with adequate pressure. The old compound will wash off and more can be applied as needed.
 
Thanks ClarksRifles. I use the mousepad sharpening trick. Changing it to a polish compound is a great idea. At this point I usually just use a cloth and fingers. So might make a great upgrade.
 
A good steel, or preferably several in various coarsenesses, is IMNSHO really critical for getting that ultimate edge. I put convex edges on almost all of my edged tools/weapons, and I think I have at least 5 or 6 different different sharpening "steels" of varying coarsenesses that I can use to finish an edge, after getting it to the right point with the stones.
 
Hey guys, I picked up the Simichrome a couple days ago and was working on a blade with it. I am having decent results but not as good as the ones I have seen. I don't have a mousepad loaded up yet, I was using one of hubbies old sweat shirts that I won't mind him missing :D and kind of working it in circles with my thumb and fingers on opposite sides of the blade. After the initial improvement, I wasn't seeing any additional improvement after a few minutes so I kind of wondered if I am not doing it right or just expected too much too soon and just need to keep at it. So, Is there a better way or am I just being lazy and need to keep working at it until it will start getting better?
 
Hi Shavru, I have used Simichrome for many years, and I think it's the best, compared to other polishes like Flitz, etc. But it only removes fine scratches and oxidation, since it's a very fine polishing compound. If you are starting with a blade that has significant scratches, then you need to use coarser materials first, if you want to ultimately get to a mirror finish. Depending on just how rough the surface is, I will generally use something like 240 grit silicon carbide paper to start, then move to 400 grit, and then to 600 grit, and then to simichrome, although if you get it smooth enough with the 400 grit you can skip the 600 grit and use the simichrome, but it will just take a bit more elbow grease. I've found that Simichrome works best on a cotton patch (gun cleaning or old flannel shirt, etc), and the more Simichrome you build up in the patch, the better it works (until the patch is falling apart or completely worn away).
 
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