Shop Reconfiguration

DanF

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Apr 17, 2017
Messages
1,318
With the let's see your shop thread, I'm reconfiguring my little shop to better organize things (I hope).
The attached sketch is what I'm thinking about. The 3 workbenches will give me much more room for storage, and moving a few pieces of equipment should make the work flow better.
But, I'm already changing positions. The cabinet storage will be moved to the lower right work bench position, the metal cutting mobile bandsaw will go where the cabinet storage was and the work bench will go where the metal cutting bandsaw is shown on the drawing.
After that, I should be able to decide where the 'floaters' listed with question marks should go. Suggestions greatly appreciated.IMG_20171107_173512.jpg
 
If I ready your scale right, the shop is 20X10. That leaves only about six feet center space.

If the anvil is in a fixed position, it should be farther from the wall during use.. I would suggest putting it on a base that can be tipped up and rolled to them place needed, and moved against the wall when not. Since the forge and anvil are right next to a big door, I suggest an awning or smith roof over that outside space to allow rolling them outside.

You have three grinders sitting two feet apart. That is pretty tight quarters for working on them. It may be wiser to make that a 6 foot bench with a 2X2' recessed section in the middle to set the grinders in. Place the grinders, and any other tools you want, on 2X2' pieces of 3/4" plywood. These can store under the table and be interchanged as needed. Lots of tools can use one space that way.

You also don't seem to have any arrangement for a dust collector/shop vac and a way to suck up the grinding and wood dust. They can be done in the same shop, but cleanliness and dust/debris removal is very important. Wood dust and metal grindings don't play well together. A good size shop vac and a spark trap/spark bong are a minimum.
I would suggest you change the bench on the end to 2X4' and put a shop vac in the corner at the end of the grinding bench. Roll the bandsaw table down to butt against the shortened bench.Hang a long hose on a hook on the wall over it and vacuum up the shop and benches regularly ( daily if doing lots of grinding). It would look and fit better if the bandsaw cart was 2X3' and the same height as the 2X4' bench. This will make it usable in place as well as rolled out.

Put everything that isn't used daily on rolling carts and bring out as needed.
Many things can be put outside permanently and covered with a BBQ cover. My anvil, forge, vises and other smith tools are all under the smith shed roof. I drop a cover over them when not in use. This has worked well for 20 years.

You want a quad power box (on the 10 foot walls and two on the long walls. Lights should run longwise and there should be plenty of it.
Paint the walls and ceiling white.

You will fill 200 sq.ft. up really fast. My new shop will be four times the size of yours, and have 600 sq.ft. upstairs storage and an office .... and will still be smaller than I would like.
 
Thanks Stacy,
I'll be redrawing and configuring this evening, making a run to the big box for wiring, lights, receptacles, and looking into a dust collection system.
 
A smaller space seems to be harder to get right than a larger one (at least for me).
I'm taking it one step at a time, this is the blank canvas right now.
The front porch is being planned for spring 2018; I've been waiting for a big, dead double oak to fall but may have to cut it. I'm hesitant to do that as the tree's crotch is 6' high and there is not a really safe way to do it myself.
Today I'll be installing receptacles on three walls, I hate to have to unplug one thing to use some other piece of equipment.
The ceiling is low so I'm researching low profile shop lighting solutions.IMG_20171109_095821.jpg
 
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Sorry, double post.
 
IMG_20171111_120853.jpg Found some 4' led low profile lights at big box, along with a pre-made bench-in-a-box (my rotator cuff tear and arthritis is thanking me for not trying to wrestle with full sheets of plywood by myself). I'll reinforce the workbench in the middle with an extra set of legs and a stiffener running across the length at the bottom.

I'm temporarily placing things to see how the work will flow before screwing things down. As it it placed now, I can grind on the bench up to 16" long and the KMG is positioned to do whatever length I want.

I have one more bench to place and 5 more 4' lights. Looking for a mini mill now, I see that LMS has a model similar to the HD and grizzly mini mill for a good bit less. Anyone have any experience with it?
Thanks
 
They are all made in the same factory by Sieg, the difference is the fit and finish and paint job. LMS and Micromark are by far the best bang for the buck when it comes to finish. Both actually test fit and run each mill and lathe from the factory, cleaning off the large amount of protectant goop (worth a few pennies in my opinion). I had the Micro-mark one, but the LMS solid column with brushless motor is nice. I had to make some mods to mine. I have since upgraded, but the mini (not the micro-) is a great little machine once you understand its limitations and capabilities.
 
looking good ! if you hang some plastic sheet on the wall behind the grinder, the metal dust will not build up on the wood and be a hazard. it will fall to the floor. i have had plastic hanging 2 inches behind the wheel on the wall for years and it has never melted from the sparks.
 
looking good ! if you hang some plastic sheet on the wall behind the grinder, the metal dust will not build up on the wood and be a hazard. it will fall to the floor. i have had plastic hanging 2 inches behind the wheel on the wall for years and it has never melted from the sparks.

Thanks for that tip John, I will be doing that in the near future.

Temps in the shop yesterday started at 24 F and got up to a heatwave of 33F. Might need a little heater of some sort to keep going through the winters. Mid to upper 30's is doable, below that is uncomfortable. Forge heats things, but unfortunately, it also puts a lot of moisture in there. Another decision to make.
 
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They are all made in the same factory by Sieg, the difference is the fit and finish and paint job. LMS and Micromark are by far the best bang for the buck when it comes to finish. Both actually test fit and run each mill and lathe from the factory, cleaning off the large amount of protectant goop (worth a few pennies in my opinion). I had the Micro-mark one, but the LMS solid column with brushless motor is nice. I had to make some mods to mine. I have since upgraded, but the mini (not the micro-) is a great little machine once you understand its limitations and capabilities.

Noticed the LMS bench model last night, 1 hp motor and 250+ lbs would be a beast in my little shop. But, might keep me from needing to upgrade later. Wife is gonna beat the hell out of me.
 
This made me sick when I saw it yesterday. The 2x42 grinder sat on both of these in the past. I guess I need to fabricate some type of tray to go under its wheel since it's so close to the benchtop.IMG_20171113_143627.jpg
 
Cut it flush to the base and let the sparks and grit go straight down onto a bucket or can. It would be best if the catch pan was rectangular. One could be made from a piece of sheet metal. When you get a spark trap made, put a fitting on the bottom of the catch pan for the hose to attach to.
 
Post #7 above shows my new bench placement and my first screwup.
When I measured for the benches, I planned on building a 24" wide bench. But, when I found the pre-mades, they were 21". Hence, the hidden, unusable receptacle, now properly placed. Took longer to move that one than it did to wire up 4.IMG_20171114_101729.jpg
 
Second bench in place, that end of shop mostly done for floor space. Next, will need to start on walls at that end and then turn to the end you can't see in the photo where the bomb went off.
shop benches.jpg
I'm starting to see room for more toys.
Once I get everything put back together, I'll start making drawers for the benches.
 
Added a new piece yesterday, a small HF mig welder, I traded for my 2+ year old HF 120 V wire welder. An acquaintance decided he wasn't going to be able to wire his shop for 220v so he suggested the trade.
I know the HF welders aren't much, but I've been able to do a bit of body work with my old one. MIG is new territory for me though.
Got the new circuit installed this a.m., with the receptacle near the front double doors.
 
The piece of RR track and 6"+ rod and sledge head are whispering sweet nothing's in my ear about simple, small power hammers.
IMG_20171118_160733.jpg

I have the CS tire hammer plans for some future time build, the first build will be some type of small helve type hammer to learn about building hammers on and practice welding.
 
Good starter hammer projects are the Frankenhammer, and the Appalachian Power Hammer ( Rusty/Crusty.
 
I had looked at the Rusty in the past, but I need detailed instructions. Checked out the Frankenhammer after you mentioned it. Looks like it has a build manual I can purchase that will help me get it done.
 
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