Shop TIP use 36 grit :) PICTURE

blgoode

blgoode

Joined
Oct 3, 2003
Messages
7,210
Just wanted to show you guys what helped me really speed up. Using 36 grit belts to rough in my grinds. Got these roughed in in about 6 hrs total. Also used a worn out 60 grit to break the edge at a 45degree to my center scribe lines.

I'll use 60 grit to raise my grinds and get the edge thinner then heat treat. I always go back to 60 grit after heat treat and go from there.

My advice is get 36 grit and see if it helps you along :)

RoughedIN.jpg


I also dont grind my D2 far up before heat treat because I plate quench and I use the stock thickness to hopefully keep the blades straight between the aluminium bars :)
 
I've been meaning to get some new 36 grit belts to try out for rough profiling/establishing bevels. I've always used them for handle materials. I think you might have pushed me over the edge. Thanks, Brian!

Of course, I love Blaze belts, and they only go down to 40. Oh well, I bet that will do ;).

--nathan
 
I dont profile with 36 because they tear too much out and leave too much to need cleaning up IN MY OPINION.

I use 60 to profile and set the edge, then 36 grit :)
 
Thanks for the tip! I've been using worn 60 grits to break in my edges, and then switching to a better 60 grit to do most of the work. Gonna get some 36s next order.
 
man i need to get me some 36 grit belts. i use 50 grit blaze belts and they work fast but not that fast. thy profile like a dream. i do have some 40 grit ceramic belts but there nothing compared to a blaze. what brand 36 grit belt where you using and how many blades did you get out of it.

Edit: Norton does have 35 grit blaze belts Nathan. thy even have 24 grit in there new R980P belt. can you just imagine it. 24 grit blaze belt going 9000SFPM on a solid stainless steel KMG :D o there is a god;) Norton says that the new R980P gets 37%+ improvement in life vs. existing R980 which is what most blaze belts are.
 
Last edited:
Hi Brian, That is impressive. I'm in the middle of my first knife and can't even imagine getting to the point where I could be that productive.

BTW, I am only about 45 min away from you up in the Lake Norman area. Also my wife grew up very close to you on Crowder's Mountain just at the base of King's Pinnacle.
 
Brian, what belts do you use? And, how many did it take to do that many knives? (And how many knives is that!?)
 
I use 36 grit with my drum sander as well. Works like a planer without any tear out in the wood. I used to start with 60 grit but when I changed to 36 grit first it cut my sanding time in half. I can see how the same thing would apply to steel.
 
I used to use 36 grit, but found they create more work than they save. Getting 36 grit scratches out of a blade is demands a Lot of time at the grinder with 60 grit belts. By the time all the scratches are out, I was lucky I still had a blade. Just my opinion, guys.

Dave
 
Been using the 36 and 50 grit blaze for a while now and I can't imagine working with anything less. Brian's pictures are a testament to the cost effectiveness they offer. I mostly do hollow grinds and I use the 36 grit to establish the grind. If you are worried about going to deep and not being able to get the scratches out, just scribe two sets of lines. Scribe a set .020 apart for finishing and scribe a set say .050 or .060 for roughing with the 36 grit. I never have to make more than a few passes with 60 grit ceramic to get the 36 grit scratches out. From there it's 120 and then 240 to my .020 lines before heat treat.
 
JBS TOOLMAKER said:
Been using the 36 and 50 grit blaze for a while now and I can't imagine working with anything less. Brian's pictures are a testament to the cost effectiveness they offer. I mostly do hollow grinds and I use the 36 grit to establish the grind. If you are worried about going to deep and not being able to get the scratches out, just scribe two sets of lines. Scribe a set .020 apart for finishing and scribe a set say .050 or .060 for roughing with the 36 grit. I never have to make more than a few passes with 60 grit ceramic to get the 36 grit scratches out. From there it's 120 and then 240 to my .020 lines before heat treat.
Click to expand...

oooh, that's smart! thanks!
 
David Stifle said:
I used to use 36 grit, but found they create more work than they save. Getting 36 grit scratches out of a blade is demands a Lot of time at the grinder with 60 grit belts. By the time all the scratches are out, I was lucky I still had a blade. Just my opinion, guys.

Dave
Click to expand...
Exactly - Thats why I still have material to grind. Look at my finished knives. I never have that much flat area left above the bevels.

I think its like 24 blades. - Used 1 36 grit belt for the smaller ones and a fresh 36 grt for the big ones.

2 belts total. It will take about 6 or so 60 grits from this point.
 
blgoode said:
I also dont grind my D2 far up before heat treat because I plate quench and I use the stock thickness to hopefully keep the blades straight between the aluminium bars :)
Click to expand...

I just finished the second of the three belt grinders I will be making (the last one will be for me) and I am eager to learn how to get the most out of it.

I was surprised to see that you don't actually finish the knife before HT but I can understand why. Anyway, if I was to make a knife out of leaf spring and do a ghetto HT with a coal furnace and burnt engine oil as quenching medium (that is, not needing stock thickness for keeping things straight or anything), would I get some benefit of not finishing the knife before HT and doing it afterwards?

I always thought that I was supposed to take the knife to near finished condition (polished up to 240 for example) before HT and after that, polishing it to the desired grint (lets say 800 followed by a scotch Brite wheel for satin finish).

How about getting it too hot grinding after HT? Doesn't that screw up the HT?

Thanks in advance and sorry for the mess of questions,
Mikel
 
I just seem to get in a groove and get warmed up and find if I have a perfect blade before heat treat its never easy keep what you loved the same. A lot of folder makers never grund the bevels al all untill the blade is heat treated. Just try what you need to to make the blade process the most enjoyable. Basically after heat treat I know I will spend 3 times the time again after heat treat than before.

If the knife is too hot to hold when grinding after heat treat your getting too close for comfort to ruining the heat treat. It won't ruin the heat treat unless you turn a spot blue but you use your hand to tell you when to cool it :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top