Should I buy a wicked edge?

NWangler said:
How good is the 600 grit edge?

Jack
Click to expand...

It's not bad, as someone else stated it will give you a really sharp but somewhat toothy edge. It all depends on the edge YOU want... I bought a wicked edge field and sport (great value btw!) about a month ago, and I don't regret it whatsoever. I can tell you with certainty that you will want to spend another $30.00 on an angle cube, maybe a cheap jewlers loupe as well. I bought a 30x one on amazon for $5.00 and it works fine. There is no way to tell if you are as obsessive as me with your edges, but if you are considering such an expensive system, the answer is possibly...ha ha.

I would also buy the 800/1000 stones at a minimum, but know that I wasn't satisfied until I had the 50/80, and 1200/1600 ceramic stones as well. Don't get me wrong...I am not by any means saying that you NEED these additional stones, but if you want a really smooth and refined edge, I would just plan on buying those extra items. That being said, I now feel like I am set up for life, or at least a good long while. I wouldn't mind some of the strop sets, but I don't feel like I need them. I feel pretty decent at this point with what I have.

Hope this helps you make your decision!
 
NWangler said:
How good is the 600 grit edge?

Jack
Click to expand...
A well broken in 600 grit edge followed by a little stropping is a very good edge. It all depends on what you value. I've got ceramics and strops, pastes, and sprays out the yin yang, and was once enamored with mirror edges, but I do not personally care for them anymore. I prefer an edge that cuts better, and right now it's 600 grit followed by stropping with 0.5 micron CBN spray.
 
With the Wicked Edge wouldn't you need to keep a "knife book" to keep notes on where you clamp each blade, how far you insert the blade in the clamp, and maybe have issues with getting some edges consistently clamped?
 
postoak said:
With the Wicked Edge wouldn't you need to keep a "knife book" to keep notes on where you clamp each blade, how far you insert the blade in the clamp, and maybe have issues with getting some edges consistently clamped?
Click to expand...
Keeping records helps. But I kept records with my old Edge Pro too. I'm just a record keeping type person.

I just put in a few simple notes in the notepad program in my phone. Mine are simply something like "top, B, 18 dps" meaning top holes on depth key, B length on the ruler and will add if I had to tilt the blade back or something. Some go more elaborate with spreadsheets.

Especially with FFG blades, I don't try any of the tricks to keep the edge centered in the clamp. I just clamp it in, put the angle cube on both sides of the blade, do some simple math, and I know how far in or out to put the arms to have a true 18 degrees or whatever angle I want. It's never failed me, and between looking up my settings and clamping the blade, I'm ready to touch up in about 2 minutes. No system is perfect, but the WEPS is probably the most easily repeatable.
 
postoak said:
With the Wicked Edge wouldn't you need to keep a "knife book" to keep notes on where you clamp each blade, how far you insert the blade in the clamp, and maybe have issues with getting some edges consistently clamped?
Click to expand...

You really only need to write down a few key specs as uofaengr said, but I wouldn't say that you'd be screwed if you didn't. I would probably just take a bit longer next time you went to sharpen the knife. The clamp on my field and sport edition is probably the biggest pain/drawback of the system for me. Not that it's a big deal, but if I had to complain about anything it would be fumbling about with the clamp and angles during set up. After that is done I find the rest of the process fairly therapeutic!

I have tried most of the popular sharpening systems, not wanting to spend the money on the wicked edge, and I realize now (for me at least) that I would have been better off just biting the bullet sooner!
 
Thanks guys, Do you have to get the ceramic stones to get the mirror polish? Or just the leather strops? Thanks

NW
 
I haven't ever used the leather strops specifically for the WE, But this is what I have done so far in order to achieve a NEAR mirror polish... I progress through the 100/200, 400/600, and 800/1000 grit diamond stones. Then I wipe the blade down with a damp paper towel before hitting the edge with the 1200/1600 ceramic stones. At this point I typically have what I would call a "polished" edge. It definitely reflects more light than the rest of the blade and is noticeable better than a factory edge (you don't see such rough grains.) For most knives I will just stop here, and be happy with them if they are my EDC's, or if I am not worried about looks (even though it looks pretty good!)

To continue, I typically will tape some 2000 grit dry sandpaper to my ceramic stones, and give the edge another 30-40 passes on each side. Then I move up to 2500, and finish with 3000. After that I will strop the knife with a leather strop and some black polishing compound. I would call the result a mirror, or near mirror polish. It's not as crazy as some of the pics you have probably seen online, but it is pretty close, and looks really good!

I am sure there is a better way, and would love to hear more feedback as well! This has worked well for me, however I am still learning to master the wicked edge as well.
 
My biggest obstacle now is working on either the stroke of the stones, or finding the "sweet spot" to clamp my knives. I have noticed that I seem to take more steel off of the belly/tip of the blade, while the heel remains more coarse than the rest of the blade. The manual suggests that I need to move the knife back (closer to me) in the clamp, though with some knives it isn't really possible due to the grind of the blade. At any rate, I think I need to adjust my stroke so that I am not favoring the belly of the blade, and/or skipping over the heel of the blade. It is no doubt a great system, but don't underestimate the learning curve!
 
Metalhed2434 said:
My biggest obstacle now is working on either the stroke of the stones, or finding the "sweet spot" to clamp my knives. I have noticed that I seem to take more steel off of the belly/tip of the blade, while the heel remains more coarse than the rest of the blade. The manual suggests that I need to move the knife back (closer to me) in the clamp, though with some knives it isn't really possible due to the grind of the blade. At any rate, I think I need to adjust my stroke so that I am not favoring the belly of the blade, and/or skipping over the heel of the blade. It is no doubt a great system, but don't underestimate the learning curve!
Click to expand...

Try not using the depth key and tilting the tip down...
 
Metalhed2434 said:
I have tried most of the popular sharpening systems, not wanting to spend the money on the wicked edge, and I realize now (for me at least) that I would have been better off just biting the bullet sooner!
Click to expand...

Yep, wish I'd just bought it from the start, but glad I know what I like and dislike about the Edge Pro for future reference.
NWangler said:
Thanks guys, Do you have to get the ceramic stones to get the mirror polish? Or just the leather strops? Thanks

NW
Click to expand...
Unless you want to cut sandpaper strips or something, yeah you need at least the 1200/1600s in my experience before you hit leather.
razor-edge-knives said:
Try not using the depth key and tilting the tip down...
Click to expand...
Yep, what he said.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top