Should I convex my IZULA

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Dec 21, 2006
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I have recently learned how to convex knives and I have already convexed two, im liking the edges, but not anymore than Vgrinds at the moment. So I want opinions should I convex the edge of my Izula or just give it the standard sharpmaker treatment? Please give me your opinions.
 
A good convex edge is my favorite of all edge types. I find them to be the easiest to maintain. But if you have experience with them and dont find you care for them any more than a V ground edge, I dont see much of a purpose in taking the time to do it.
 
The only reason mine isn't convexed is I don't have the materials/knowledge.........that and i'm lazy. :D
 
V-sharpening is good, Convex sharpeneing a lot better than V-sharpening. Yes, convex your Izula, you won't regret ^^
 
Are you talking about the entire grind, or just the edge? If the grind, no. If the edge, no. Unless you use a belt sander for sharpening or just like the looks of it, in which case, have at it.
 
Just the edge, Im just using the Knives ship free kit and it worked pretty well I just cant get the heel as sharp as the belly. Once I get that done it will be perfect.
 
Pay close attention to the amount of pressure you are using, its a big factor in hand convexing.
 
I'll vote yes. I've found that convexing the edge of the RAT knives helps blend the coating out smoother for better slicing.
 
Pay close attention to the amount of pressure you are using, its a big factor in hand convexing.

i'm convexing a lot of my knives too, really like convex grinds
what's the difference between applying pressure and not applying pressure?
thanks
Maxx
 
Convexing in and off itself doesn't really mean much in terms of performance. A thick convex edge will still be a miserable slicer and make precision cutting harder. A thinner edge is a tremendous performance boost. I recommend you put aside the sharpmaker and get a DMT Duosharp hone, coarse on one side and extra-fine on the other. If you've learned to convex with reasonable proficiency you should have no problem learning to sharpen on a flat hone. Using the coarse DMT put an 8 degree per side bevel on the edge. An 8 degree angle on the Izula is roughly equivalent to putting a quarter under the spine of the knife. Grind like a madman until the edge is sharp enough to shave. Then using the extra-fine side, lift the blade spine just slightly and in 5 - 10 strokes per side you will have a crazy sharp edge. Maintenance is simple, as the blade dulls, a few strokes at the elevated angle and you're done. After 10 or 20 sharpenings, regrind at the lower angle to keep the thin geometry.

I have been very happy with the Izula's performance at 8 degrees per side but if you find you're edge is deforming too much, use two quarters for the bevel and that will give you a 12 degree per side edge.

On a side note, sharpening freehand almost always results in a certain amount of convexity, unless you are a robot.

Here's the edge on my Izula

dsc5446sml.jpg
 
8* per side:eek:. Now we're talkin'. Whats the limit for that shallow an edge angle in terms of tasks that start to produce deformation? 10* is about as low as I've gone, and I didnt see any deformation, but it was nearly 10 points harder than the Izula.
 
Looks like you need less angle, it also looks like you have a little recurve to the blade along with uneven pressure. Maybe try working from the tip to the choil when sharpening.
 
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