Should I paint my KMG?

Two words: Pink Flames!

seriously though, when i get one i like butcher blocks idea. i would brown mine. maybe even get some gun brown. iv been meaning to get some for knife furniture too...

-Lou
 
butcher_block said:
im browning mine

BTW mine gets wet when i sharpen knives on it and still have no real problem with bad pitting rust it just seems to like the nice looking brown
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Wait a minute, what am I missing here? Why does it get wet while you're sharpening knives on it?

Mark
 
NickWheeler said:
Good point by my friend Fitz...

I honestly don't know how the humidity compares in Michigan... but I assumed it would be somewhat similar to what I have here in Washington.

I have to regress a bit, and say that my friends in southern CA did not paint their's and have no rust. :o
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Michigan humidity is pretty high. If I'd take the time and effort to epoxy my garage floor things might not want to rust quite so quickly.

Mark
 
when i use the 3m micron (film backing) i run them wet to keep temps at the edge under control
even with the speed turned way down you can over heat an edge so anything smaller then 40 micron goes slow and wet
remember that i do a few kitchen knives and a nasty sharp blade at a very acute angle is where its at
some chefs even use wet stones at over 20,000 grit to get the edge they want
 
Do you guys disassemble it first before painting? Won't the paint crack when you put it together with bolts?

Thanks,
Alex
 
alexmin said:
Do you guys disassemble it first before painting? Won't the paint crack when you put it together with bolts?

Thanks,
Alex
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Yes -- disassemble. I'm gonna paint mine before I assemble it.

I guess if you use overly thick coats or too many coats of paint that'd happen. Properly applied it'll be fine.

Mark
 
Bob Jenson painted his with the hammered spray paint. It looks really nice and wont rust now. I would paint mine and gun blue the tool arm.
 
RE: Hammered Paint

Rust-Oleum (I think!) makes it. It dries to a dimpled looking finish. I've seen it on the shelf at the local ACO store, though I've yet to try it.

Mark
 
There are two natural colors to the eyes, and they are gray and green.
That is why if you look at most shop equipment, it is green or gray.
So it does NOT bother the eyes, when using the machine.
You may want to keep this in mind, when you paint a piece of shop equipment.

Later.

Todd
 
Any recommendations for gun blue? A quick Google search showed a number of types and brands. Also, can it be purchased at Wal-Mart or other department stores that carry guns? I guess if I decide to blue the tooling arms I can do it at any time, so if I have to order it online it's no big deal.

Todd: Thanks for the input on colors. I guess that's why gray and green are used so often inside of factories.

Thanks to all,
Mark
 
There is a few companies here in Jackson that do black oxide. It looks pretty cool and holds up pretty decent. It's also another form of controlled rusting. Im in the process of building mine right now and i thought of doing a heat coloring on it, might be kinda neat.
 
Thanks Mark

I used the Casey-birchwood bluing in a tube, you can get it at most sporting goods stores for around $8-10. Won't completely stop rust but helps some to prevent it. The tube is enough to do 10 or 15 tool bars or more. I haven't had any problem with the tool arms and rust, I did mine a couple years ago.

I hammer paint finish is Rust-Oleum you can get it at Home Depot, Lowes, or most hardware stores. I haven't had any problems where the bolts scratched the finish. I used primer on mine, just because I had it in the garage, don't know if it is necessary but can't hurt.

I took mine apart it was easy. The main thing to remember is to make sure it all goes back "square" when you reassemble.

Black oxide would be a nice finish too.

Kelly
 
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