Should I put a flat grind on my SJTac?

ak645

ak645

Joined
Nov 21, 2006
Messages
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Just recieved my first Busse,an SJTac.I am not really thrilled with it's cutting performance even though the edge is very sharp.I spoke with Garth (very cool!) and he explained about the convex grind they use and why they use it.He said if I sent it in they would put a flat grind on it just for the cost of shipping (again very cool!) and this would significantly improve the cutting performance.

This knife is going to be my main camping/woods knife.I will not be stabbing my way out of a tank or anything like that.Just cutting some firewood some food prep and general camp chores.

Should I do it or not? The flat grind edge that is :D

ak
 
That would make a cool variant. And since the shop is doing it the warranty should still apply right? Go for it. You can't beat the price.
 
ak645 said:
Just recieved my first Busse,an SJTac.I am not really thrilled with it's cutting performance even though the edge is very sharp.I spoke with Garth (very cool!) and he explained about the convex grind they use and why they use it.He said if I sent it in they would put a flat grind on it just for the cost of shipping (again very cool!) and this would significantly improve the cutting performance.

This knife is going to be my main camping/woods knife.I will not be stabbing my way out of a tank or anything like that.Just cutting some firewood some food prep and general camp chores.

Should I do it or not? The flat grind edge that is :D

ak
Click to expand...

The first question that has to be asked, when your speaking of the convex grind, do you mean the main bevel of the knife, or the cutting edge bevel?

If this is in reference to the main bevel, then making it flat ground would change the entire geometry of the knife. i'm not sure how it would perform comparably, but I'm sure it would be really noticable.

If its just in regards to the cutting edge itself, I think you'll find a thinner cross section will increase the cutting performance more then just making it flat ground. the difference between convex 20 degrees and flat ground 20 degrees with a 2mm cross section probably wont be to noticable, but if you grind the cross section down to 1mm, you'll notice a big leap in how easily it cuts.
 
LVC: good point. Flat grinding the entire blade would change a lot of characteristics of the Tac. But just giving the bevel a flat grind wouldn't be that drastic. I have done that to several of my blades w/ an Apex Edge Pro and like the result. Just a preference.
 
Hi LVC,

We were just talking about the edge bevel.How would thinning out the edge relate to edge retention and toughness?What I am looking for is sort of a middle ground (npi) between slicing ability and edge retention.

Thank You,
Andy K
 
I think the convex really stands out more when used as a heavy chopper. More durable due to more steel. Good question though. I am debating on doing the same thing to my NO-E as it is not my designated chopper.
 
If you send it to garth and have him flat grind the edge to 20 degree's or less per side, you'll probably notice the difference quickly.

I've found that all but the custom shop peices I've owned had edges in the 40+ degree per side range. Almost all of them we're able to shave, but were made much much better at general cutting when the edge was more accute.


I'm gaugeing my "40+ degree per side" rating on my edgepro apex sharpener. the stone doesnt touch the very cutting edge until i set it to 40+ degree's, otherwise it just takes off metal from center of the convex curve.



A bit of an edit - For me, it's not really worth carrying as a cutting tool unless it's at least 20 degrees per side. The only time a more obtuse angle is okay for my purposes is when its a dedicated prybar, like my hogsjtacle. On my edc cutter, i keep it at 10 degree's per side. It does mean that I have to sharpen out staple glances a little more often, but it's more of a pain in the butt to use something that is noticably difficult to cut with then to sharpen it. At least for me :)
 
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