Should I put some Tru-oil on my stabilized scales?

Bob Ohlemann

Bob Ohlemann

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Dec 5, 2013
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So, I shaped and sanded a set of stabilized Boxelder burl scales all the way to 2000 grit. I then lightly hit them with the buffer; sewn cotton buff with white compound. They look pretty good but, I'm wondering if I can get more depth and contrast by adding a few coats of Tru-oil and refinishing. I've never worked with Tru-oil before but I've read good things about it here. What do you guys think?

Bob

Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr
 
To me they look like they are only sanded to 800g or so. Were they home stabilized, or professionally stabilized?

I do put a couple thin coats of tru oil on my handles after they are sanded. The wood can still absorb moisture even though the wood is stabilized.
 
Willie71 said:
To me they look like they are only sanded to 800g or so. Were they home stabilized, or professionally stabilized?

I do put a couple thin coats of tru oil on my handles after they are sanded. The wood can still absorb moisture even though the wood is stabilized.
Click to expand...

I believe them to be professionally stabilized but honestly don't know where. I bought them at a knife show a while back. I'm actually not even sure on the wood type, might actually by Black Ash Burl or who knows? I was pretty diligent about sanding through the grades. I sanded dry so maybe that makes a difference? I was not intending to fill in the small voids because I like the natural feel of them. Now I'm not sure.

Bob
 
Hmmm, there's definitely a cloudy look to your handle that starts disappearing at 600-800g in my shop, but maybe its the resin used? I'm not sure then. Try wetsanding with some 30% thinned tru oil and see what happens?
 
I found this guide a while ago. Its the same process that I was taught a couple decades ago by a master finisher, who did fine furniture and boats. The handle feels like soapstone when done. You cab use Tru Oil as well, but it will be a bit glossier, and have more of a plastic feel.

http://www.wwch.org/technique/finishes/oilfin.htm
 
[I often work with work that has an open grain or tiny pits like in burl wood. I read on Bladeforums that some guys use CA glue on their fingertip to coat the scales after sanding to 400 grit to fill the grain and tiny holes. I also used to finish walnut gunstocks by wet sanding a thin coat of polyurethane to fill the grain with the same wood dust as the stock. I now often use "Zap-a-gap" brand of Ca glue to fill tiny pores or voids...sometimes doing it twice or three times and finish sanding in between. I personally like the luster on your scales but the tiny pits bother me. If you get those filled then I would not use a varnish or Tru oil at all but just buff the scales with pink compound to a nice luster. Here is Afzelia wood filled with Ca glue .
 

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Birchwood Casey (the maker of Tru-Oil) also makes a Sealer and Filler product that you can use underneath Tru-Oil. I've had good luck with this product, and it goes a good job in sealing up the grain. You'll want to try it on some scrap wood first, because it cures much quicker than Tru-Oil and you need to know how to work with it.

TedP
 
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