should this happen??

I don't think the RW would have any problem. I don't have a RW, but have had a Camp Tramp for over 3 years with no problems batoning or prying. The CT and the RW are essentially the same blades with different handles.

The larger Rats are pretty much full thickness almost to the tip and it's hard enough to get them to flex, much less break.

I would only consider my Busse's (INFI), stronger, and then only by a slight margin.

Rob
 
grobe said:
any onpinions on how a ratweiler would fare with this type of situation?? i don't think this is an unreasonable task to ask of a hard use blade. the knife i was using is often compared to a camp tramp but i like the micarta on the ratweiler better.
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I am sure I am not the only one who wants to know what knife you were using. . .
 
grobe said:
the blade is .25" out to where the 'drop' starts towards the point.
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Well based on this and the above it seems like a flaw to me. Assuming the Ratweiler is ground like the Camp Tramp I don't imagine it is a problem. Sign up for the pass around when I put it up and do it. A half an inch isn't even deep, I did holesin wood as part of evaluating heavy use knives and I do it fairly vigerously and the stabs go over 1/2".

-Cliff
 
I am sure I am not the only one who wants to know what knife you were using.
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i know everyone is wondering but i'd like not to mention it at this time. i know how fast a negative comment can travel and how it breaks guys' confidence in a maker. the maker has agreed to replace the blade and i'll subject the new one to the same test. if that one breaks, well, then i wouldn't feel it was suitable for that type of abuse and would look into the ratweiler. and i'd mention the maker at that point being that it would be two broken blades from him.

cliff- thanks for them mention on the rat. any idea of when the pass around will be??
 
not to drag this thread out- but for those that are interested, i took my mora clipper out today and performed the same act on the same piece of wood. drove the tip into the wood to the .5" mark by battoning the pommel, then twisted and pried it back and forth. i saw some flex in the blade, but pried it to about the same degree as the other with no damage. the tip widened the hole in the wood to where i could eventually pull the knife out. no visual damage to the blade at all.

thanks again to all those who replied.
 
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