Should we have to mod a knife from new ?

On the other hand there is the knife that has a fantastic blade with a fantastic grind but the handle is too thin for any serious work.
 
I think it's only us knife nuts that modify knives. I don't think most people even know to do it. That being said, the knife is built for the lowest common denominator. The guy that knows nothing about knives and will abuse it. Therefore they have thicker edges and thicker blanks. The more I use knives, the thinner I want them. I know how to do the cutting work with minimal stress to the blade, something most people don't know. Heck, most people think a sharp knife is something out of the ordinary. Something to be feard. So yes, I think that us knowledgeable knife nuts will modify any knife that comes to us unless made to our specs. That's why you have that cool wide body you designed isn't it? To your specs.
 
Well said Shotgun.
As a nuts, I modify things to meet my particular demands including
knife, computer, ski, ice axes, packs, bikes ( the list goes on).

To be honest until modification made I cannot feel like I own that thing.
 
Some knives are not ground thin enough and require regrinding for their edges to perform well. I don't think we should have to regrind them but if you have a thing for a blade, do what you need to do to make it work for you.
 
About all that I can add is that if I receive a new knife that is not sharp or otherwise below my standards, it goes back with a note to make it right or keep it. I won't keep it. The more expensive the knife, the more I expect perfection.
 
Alot depends on the purpose of said knife. TOPS, Busse etc. are overbuilt for a reason. I know TOPS has a huge military market and their knives will see extreme hard use. I've been studying grind/edge profiles really closely for the last couple of years. It is impossible to come to a one grind/edge profile that fits every application. With my knives, I've tried to come to a happy medium with grind/edge geometry. I studied other makers/manufacturers knives and done alot of cutting comparisions with different grind/edge profiles. Some perform differently under the same cutting tests. For example, I haven't had a scandi grind pass my elk bone test. I've had some full zero edge convex grinds fail the elk test. I've even done these grinds/edges on my own knives for comparision.
Bottom line is pick you knives according to your intended purpose.
Scott
 
Yeah..... what Scott said... and Rat.... and Baldy... and Kev.... etc.:thumbup:


Edges are very personal. I knowfolks who swear their knife is the sharpest and watching them work, you'd think it was. Then I inspect the edge and find that it's dull by my standards. I've had folks tell me my edges were dull.:jerkit: whatever...... lol. Like I said, it's personal.


Rick


Ps.... my edges are not dull.:grumpy:



:p
 
Yeah..... what Scott said... and Rat.... and Baldy... and Kev.... etc.:thumbup:


Edges are very personal. I knowfolks who swear their knife is the sharpest and watching them work, you'd think it was. Then I inspect the edge and find that it's dull by my standards. I've had folks tell me my edges were dull.:jerkit: whatever...... lol. Like I said, it's personal.


Rick


Ps.... my edges are not dull.:grumpy:



:p

Your edges dull? Now that's funny. What were they trying to cut...steel?
 
Some knives are not ground thin enough and require regrinding for their edges to perform well. I don't think we should have to regrind them but if you have a thing for a blade, do what you need to do to make it work for you.

Kevin makes a great point. There are knives that cut quite well.

But, then we buy other knives, why?

Why do we buy knives that have no reputation for cutting performance?

Because we like them, for reasons outside of their cutting performance.

And as long as that is a serious consideration for many buyers, manufacturers will create knives that sell for qualities other than cutting performance.

Marion
 
I modify the edge geometry on EVERY knife I have to suit me and my sharpening style.
I don't consider that modifying the knife that is just adjusting the edge to my preference.
All of them have been done by hand on 6" bench stones and sandpaper or with my Apex sharpener so you don't need any fancy equipment.
As to Busse everyone that I have bought has been at least what I call Utility sharp and that is the edge a lot of people like me I like em thinner and sharper.
Of course I did the same thing with my Spyderco,Case Benchmade etc.....
 
A golok is a jungle knife. Take it to northern hardwoods and you need a thicker edge. Many knives are like this, capable of work in different environments, but only initially sharpened for one. You're going to sharpen it someday soon anyway.
Yup.
Which is why most machetes sold at stores in places other than the US have just a rough grind. The owner changes the edge with a file to suit their needs, like grass vs vines, etc.
 
If I get a machete, Becker, Ranger, or Busse, I expect a decent utility edge. Those are hard use knives. I am going to put my own edge on it anyway. If I buy a folder in S30V, I expect it to be near shaving sharp right out of the box, and they often are. The sharpest big knives I ever got were Cold Steel Trailmasters and my recent Swamp Rat M9LE. But if every new knife came as sharp as a Spyderco or Bark River, it would be fine with me. :D
 
Whats pisses me off with alot of Military type knife sales is people assuming were are chopping through bricks and prying. I know alot of dumbasses that do stupid stuff and break there knives. Like the so called Hawks out there. Most Infantry units have hoogain type tools. Sure its good to have a knife strongly built to handle alot of stuff in the field or deployment. But if anywere along the edge its is to thick to even cut paper or 550 (para) cord. The you should have a pry bar with a point.
 
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