Show me your Throwing Projectiles!

rdelliott i remember your toys. Ya da guy that threw it on a can of beer eh? :D

R ellis, i got the same question as kevin about the handles too
 
The one on the left I am making. 4140 1/4" thick. The one on the right is a mint Tru-Balance Bowie-Axe that I took the design from. I am supposed to have it done by the 7th of July. I need to drill the holes, heat treat and mount the handle. A full blade quench and tempered at 500 degrees ought to make it pretty much indistructable.

The Bowie-Axe, designed by Tru- Bal knife company founder Harry McEvoy is a great design. Harry said the name came from it being a cross between a Bowie knife and a Viking Scramasax. It has been used to hunt and kill wild boars and was carried to Vietnam as a fighting knife.
 
Is there a difference between a Scramasax and a Seax ?

That Bowie is awesome . The part closest to the handle looks like there is no edge on it ?
 
Scram means food, seax means knife. Scramasax = food knife. So I guess the proper term would just be seax. Unless you used it as a knife for getting food. ha!

You are right it is not sharp down past the choil, and has a very long riccasso.
 
Thanks , the reason I am asking is the Seax is an interesting knife that may vary greatly . While the basic knife is no more than a pointy bit of metal the embellishments can make it into a blade worthy of a King .

It seems like a way to progress at knife making following the evolution and various forms a knife can take . My own needs and skill level may not progress much beyond the pointy bit of metal stage . I have made one out of hickory to use as a training aid and to learn a bit about woodworking .
 
AtomSphere said:
rdelliott i remember your toys. Ya da guy that threw it on a can of beer eh? :D
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Well, actually, that was my dad in the picture, but guilty as charged :D.
 
R. Ellis said:
The one on the left I am making. 4140 1/4" thick. The one on the right is a mint Tru-Balance Bowie-Axe that I took the design from. I am supposed to have it done by the 7th of July. I need to drill the holes, heat treat and mount the handle. A full blade quench and tempered at 500 degrees ought to make it pretty much indistructable.

The Bowie-Axe, designed by Tru- Bal knife company founder Harry McEvoy is a great design. Harry said the name came from it being a cross between a Bowie knife and a Viking Scramasax. It has been used to hunt and kill wild boars and was carried to Vietnam as a fighting knife.
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Interesting stuff; if you bent the blade ahead of the ricasso forward a bit, you'd have yourself something that looks a lot like a Khukuri.
 
Interesting observation. With a little heat and a hammer, you can tweek em any way you want. Here is one I am adding a little antique bowie flair to.
Tah_Chee_and_billet2.jpg
 
Do you use one particular kind of metal for your work in general or does it vary considerably ? I hope to make my first knife this summer . I have so many other projects on the burners that completing or even starting the knife may be self defeating . I will have to work at progressing on a couple of them so as to see the light at the end of the tunnel . In truth I have been experimenting so much with types of arrows and fletching I have no everyday arrows to shoot .

A man I admire spoke of skills as being layered . What you would not think you can complete is only due to the fact you are more than one layer of skills away from having what it takes to complete the work . Confidence plays a part in this as well . The projects I am completing have much more to do with wood than metal . They still seem to bring me closer to trying unrelated projects .
 
It varies for me, but I use alot of scrap, so sometimes it is just a close guess. Older leaf springs are generally 5160 spring steel and would probably be the best choice for a dedicated or duel purpose thrower.

When I had the bowie axe blanks cut about 6 years ago. I did not know anything about types of steel. My brother was a machinist and we looked up high carbon steel in a book he had. We picked 4140, I cannot remember why. I got on line to try and find out how to heat treat it. I found the forums and asked how to go about heat treating a throwing knife made from 4140. I was told not to bother heat treating a throwing knife and that 4140 was not a good knife steel. When it bends, just hammer it back flat. WTF? One site lead to another and I found Primal Fires forums. There I learned the basics of heat treating and found that forging steel was a total blast. Learning how to do it with the most basic of materials was rewarding and made me feel more self confident in case of emergency. Long story short. I found a guy, Beaver Bill, who makes all his primative throwers from 4140 and says it is a great steel for throwing knives and hawks. I bought one of his and it is tough and strong and throws great. He told me how to heat treat them and it works very well.

As for skills being layered, I need to add the layer of fit and finish. It takes me extra effort to finish a knife. 9 times out of ten I will get to a certain point and lose interest and start a new one. Skills in wood working is the other half of knife making, so you already have a leg up. Post some pics of those flechings, projectiles is projectiles!
 
This is one of my favorites. The lenght and weight make it a very powerful hitter. It was a gift from a friend who said his grandma gave it to him. He did not throw, but it was well used when I got it. Makes me wonder about grandma.
tru-bal_model_one2.jpg
 
R. Ellis said:
This is one of my favorites. The lenght and weight make it a very powerful hitter. It was a gift from a friend who said his grandma gave it to him. He did not throw, but it was well used when I got it. Makes me wonder about grandma.
tru-bal_model_one2.jpg
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Thats one cool photo! wonder if his granny was a thrower:thumbup:
 
No, thats her throwin us kids at her unruly combat bowie:eek:

Here is my Beaver Bill thrower. This monster wont even fit on the screen. Maybe I should post this on the thrower/fixed blade thread. This one makes as good a machette and log splittin' camp knife as it does a thrower.
necker_and_beaverbill_thrower2.jpg
 
R. Ellis said:
No, thats her throwin us kids at her unruly combat bowie:eek:

Here is my Beaver Bill thrower. This monster wont even fit on the screen. Maybe I should post this on the thrower/fixed blade thread. This one makes as good a machette and log splittin' camp knife as it does a thrower.
necker_and_beaverbill_thrower2.jpg
Click to expand...


:eek: there are machette designed for throwing too? (i am really not exposed to much and only know of throwing stars and throwing knives)

Newcomers to throwing might sprain their wrist on the 1st throw:D
 
This one is not quite machette length, but is around 15" so it could be used for some brush whacking. It is a thrower first and the other abilities are secondary.
I think so little is really common knowlege about throwing knives it leaves them wide open for the fantasy knife shaped object exploitators to take good advantage of people. Some people who would laugh at the cheap China 420A 99cent plus ten dollar shipping knives will be fooled by a shape and a label that says "Throwing Knife". When I was young , I use to buy those mild steel, stamped out, suede wrapped handled knives they sold in the backs of magazines. They looked good in the pics, but when they came in the mail you could bend them into a horseshoe with your bare hands. After I got my first real one and threw it for the first time, I knew I had been taken for a fool.
 
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