Show your WoodLores, clones and knives inspired by it...

Hello Folks,

First off...Thank you all for your comments.

Marion - There are some lovely knives here from top knife makers. Great thread!

Walkabout - That a way to get out there and use the Woodlore (WL). Looks like it was a beautiful day to be outdoors. I may be speaking out of turn, but I'm sure that Alan Wood (AW) and Ray Mears (RM) would be pleased to see you out there and putting the WL through its paces!

PeterPHWS - Nice collection. I really like those damascus steel blades. It seems you may have an early AW/RM WL shown in your first photo. Does the spine taper in the handle or does it keep the same thickness all the way through? I have an early AW/RM WL (the one in my photos with the leather lanyard) that does not have any taper in the handle.

Magnussen - I really like the first blade in your photos which is next to the key board with the paracord handle. Can you share the specs (what steel, OAL length, blade length, blade width and thickness, and edge profile)?

Sincerely,
Mark
 
Never thought I would like these things, but I really do like the ones that you posted, Rick. Very nice :thumbup:
 
maw said:
Magnussen - I really like the first blade in your photos which is next to the key board with the paracord handle. Can you share the specs (what steel, OAL length, blade length, blade width and thickness, and edge profile)?

Sincerely,
Mark
Click to expand...

Well...like a dummy I forgot to add in the specs, and since I don't have it on hand at the moment I can not accurately give them to you now. But it is basically the same knife as in this thread but with a different handle. You can still get some perspective of it though.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=620052

I'm thinking it is about 9 inches over all, 4.5" blade, 4.5" handle, 1/8 W1 steel, about an inch wide. I bought it for my daughter nearly two years ago so I really don't remember for sure off of the top of my head. I'm sure Rick can give you more accurate specs at the moment :) Pardon the pics, they were taken with an old vivitar camera so they aren't so great.
 
Magnussen said:
IMG_0003-2.jpg
Click to expand...

:thumbup:that is one of the best looking knives ive seen lately
 
Yes MAW, my knife is an early Woodlore .... there is some slight taper but not to the same extent as the more recent blades .... personally I get the best results with the Mick Hill knife which uses 3mm thickness stock and a high scandi grind compared to the Woodlore's 4 mm thickness and a lower grind. I find that to stop rolling on the edge and /or the edges tearing if sharpened at the very acute angle that the scandi grind gives .... the knives need a secondary micro bevel.

If you watch RM tutorial on sharpening the woodlore and notice he strops the edge 50 times and then runs it along the car window at an angle steeper than the grind .... he too is giving his knife a slightly convex secondary bevel .... and he is spot on in doing so .... this type of edge definately is the best for me .... except I miss out the belt and use a leather paddle with a litle green chrome compound which is quicker .... and then use a light ceramic rod rather than the window .... but the effect is the same. I use exactly the same wet stones.

This type of edge though when compared to a thinner stocked knife with a higher primary grind works better as there is less resistance to the cut .... I have done a lot of time and testing on this .... making ever numerous pot hangers and tent pegs and "Korchanski practise sticks" where other carved techniques are used .... and do feel the 3 mm stock is a benefit ....

Ironically Mick Hill's knife cost an awful lot less than the others and has one of the highest specs in terms of wood, liners and pins to match the 01 steel blade.
 
mistwalker said:
Well...like a dummy I forgot to add in the specs, and since I don't have it on hand at the moment I can not accurately give them to you now. But it is basically the same knife as in this thread but with a different handle. You can still get some perspective of it though.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=620052

I'm thinking it is about 9 inches over all, 4.5" blade, 4.5" handle, 1/8 W1 steel, about an inch wide. I bought it for my daughter nearly two years ago so I really don't remember for sure off of the top of my head. I'm sure Rick can give you more accurate specs at the moment :) Pardon the pics, they were taken with an old vivitar camera so they aren't so great.
Click to expand...

Thank you for sharing. Those are lovely looking blades that inherently call out to be used. I can also see how they would instill pride in the owner/user.
 
PeterPHWS said:
Yes MAW, my knife is an early Woodlore .... there is some slight taper but not to the same extent as the more recent blades .... personally I get the best results with the Mick Hill knife which uses 3mm thickness stock and a high scandi grind compared to the Woodlore's 4 mm thickness and a lower grind. I find that to stop rolling on the edge and /or the edges tearing if sharpened at the very acute angle that the scandi grind gives .... the knives need a secondary micro bevel.

If you watch RM tutorial on sharpening the woodlore and notice he strops the edge 50 times and then runs it along the car window at an angle steeper than the grind .... he too is giving his knife a slightly convex secondary bevel .... and he is spot on in doing so .... this type of edge definately is the best for me .... except I miss out the belt and use a leather paddle with a litle green chrome compound which is quicker .... and then use a light ceramic rod rather than the window .... but the effect is the same. I use exactly the same wet stones.

This type of edge though when compared to a thinner stocked knife with a higher primary grind works better as there is less resistance to the cut .... I have done a lot of time and testing on this .... making ever numerous pot hangers and tent pegs and "Korchanski practise sticks" where other carved techniques are used .... and do feel the 3 mm stock is a benefit ....

Ironically Mick Hill's knife cost an awful lot less than the others and has one of the highest specs in terms of wood, liners and pins to match the 01 steel blade.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the wealth of info. It is something to learn and compare the handling characteristics of the Mora to a WL and anything in between.
 
PeterPHWS said:
Ironically Mick Hill's knife cost an awful lot less than the others and has one of the highest specs in terms of wood, liners and pins to match the 01 steel blade.
Click to expand...

I looked around and couldn't find a website. Can you help? Any pics of his work? Thx
 
Not sure if this would count but it does have the same blade shape.

Click for larger picture

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top