Shrinking scales

James_Terrio

James_Terrio

Joined
Oct 6, 2008
Messages
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There's a thread in W&SS where folks are discussing full-tang knives with natural wood scales that shrink somewhat and eventually show small gaps around the tang. I've pretty much been talked out of using unstabilized wood for this and other reasons. I like oiled wood but I definitely see a lot of potential problems with it. I recently bought some very nice walnut and maple from guys around here, and have decided I'm just going to send it all out to be stabilized.

How well does professional stabilizing address this problem? Would fiber liners help by allowing a little "give"? Have you found more or less problems like this when using certain epoxies? Do Corby's rather than pins help?

I'd like to be able to deal with this as well as possible, and be able to inform potential customers why I did. I don't want to be limited to only micarta or G10; besides some folks have said it happens to a lesser degree with them as well.

Thanks in advance for your comments.
 
James,

When it comes to using wood for handle material, I have had nothing but good results using pieces stabilized by WSSI. Others may have had shrinkage problems, but so far (knock-on-wood:D), I have had NO problems.

If a handle material is going to shrink, liner material won't help. Neither will the type epoxy used or pins or bolts.

Robert
 
I can tell you first hand.....GET THEM STABILIZED! I just went through this last week with someone. I purchased a knife about 8 months ago which was made with Fiddleback Maple scales. I noticed that the corby bolts and the handle/tang portion were raised above the handle scales. Low and behold the scales had SHRUNK! I called the maker and explained the problem. They explained they tried to keep the cost down so they did not use stabilized scales. As someone still learning to make knives I will definately have the wood that needs it stabilized.
 
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I have used WSSI with excellent results. The first couple knives I made I used "raw" wood. I left one of those knives in my Jeep during a 90 degree day and the scales shrunk off the tang. After that nothing but stabilized for me.
 
Yes, stabilized wood is wonderful. However, it feels a little plasticky (is that a word?). Some wood, such as maple or walnut, are probably going to benefit from stabilization. Other woods, such as ironwood and snakewood, won't even take stabilizer (to my knowledge).

I personally like Osage orange with boiled linseed oil finish. It is hard, durable and I have not noticed any shrinking on well seasoned pieces and I've even run it through the dishwasher. It is fairly plain though.

I'm not trying to talk anybody out of stabilization. I use it myself. I'm just pointing out that some people prefer the feel of natural wood and many natural woods don't need it. People made due without it for a long time.

I wonder how much of the problem is due to using underaged wood. It sometimes takes years to completely dry.

Micarta shrinking? I am at a loss to explain that. Phenolic resin can not absorb a significant amount of water, and even the canvas or paper based stuff is saturated. Some CNC router manufacturers (such as Onsrud, Thermwood and Anderson) use it as a table surface. If it is stable enough for a $100,000+ CNC gantry router table, I would think it was fairly well stable. Perhaps someone used poor technique and the harder pins stood proud of the micarta? I'm not saying it didn't happen, I'm just puzzled how.
 
The wood I had a problem with was a local cherry burl that was kiln dried at my friends hardwood shop for about a month. 90 percent humidity and 90 degree days will cause wood to move. It didn't move much but when you have a full tang sanded smooth a little is a lot.
 
Keith_H said:
kind of reminds me of this :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cUNNKzj_Nc
Do you think that cocobolo is fine without any treatment, I was going over some of the woods sold locally and that was there, among others.
Click to expand...

As far as I know, cocobolo won't take stabilization very well, due to the oily nature of the wood. However, on the attached list, it hasn't been tested. I think the list came from Alpha Knife Supply, if my memory serves me.

Here's a list of woods and how they are for stabilizing or not.
 

Attachments

Thanks. I wasn't sure of what wood to buy, especially since they were in boards and needed to be re-sawed for scales.
 
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