silly newbie question

[dmarx]

Just brought home my first wood cutting bandsaw. What's the proper type and tooth count for cutting micarta, hardwoods, etc.?

PS - I've updated my profile.:foot:

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Get a carbide blade. The "Woodmaster CT" blade is variable pitch something like .7/1.Other carbide blades vary between 2 and 3 TPI. The woodmaster and woodslicer blades are superb,and if treated right will outlast other blades 6 or 10 to one.They are not cheap,but worth it.Get the widest blade your machine will handle 3/4" for most saws.The next improvement you can add to your bandsaw is to make it variable speed. Either change the motor (costly) or put on a set of step pulleys.The pulley option will only cost $20-30 and will give you a whole new realm of cutting ability.
Stacy

 

[Rob!]

A lesson I just learned the hard way. G10 will kill a good blade in VERY short order.

As for wood, it depends on what you are doing. Ripping takes a wide blade with a raker set for best results. Close radius curves take a narrower blade. Less TPI for ripping or rough cuts - more TPI for fine work and slow going.

Get some help on tuning your saw - way more important than the blade used.

My (hard earned) 2 cents.

Rob!

 

[dmarx]

Thanks guys. I'll try those. Not sure I can add a step pulley, it's a Craftsman 10".

Dave

 

[Barker]

I use a porta band to cut micarta. Works great.

 

[Tanguay Custom Knives]

A lesson I just learned the hard way. G10 will kill a good blade in VERY short order.

As for wood, it depends on what you are doing. Ripping takes a wide blade with a raker set for best results. Close radius curves take a narrower blade. Less TPI for ripping or rough cuts - more TPI for fine work and slow going.

Get some help on tuning your saw - way more important than the blade used.

My (hard earned) 2 cents.

Rob!

Aint that the truth! That stuff will kill a regular blade in a few minutes.