Simple question on getting a great Hamon

R

RHankins

Joined
Jul 14, 2007
Messages
190
After all these years I should know this but I need to be sure...
When Clay (Satanite) coating a blade for wild Hamon patterns What is the best way to quench it?
Tip first into a pipe quenching the whole blade? or
Edge first into a quench tank?
Am using 1075 with flat grinds and etching with vinegar.
 
Full quench in a vertical tank works for me, and make sure you're using the appropriate quenchant (and enough of it!) for the steel you've chosen... aside from making a better knife, it also produces better and more consistent hamon!
 
with 1084, I just quench in peanut oil, tip first.

Make sure your satanite is thick enough, around 3/16ths is good.

I found that It dosn't follow the lines you make, but is almost an "average" of the lines, so I make the pattern more extreme then I want it to turn out.

I'm not sure if it's always like that, or if it's just my method that makes it react like that.
 
sorta off-topic but what's the big difference between canola/peanut/corn/olive oil? how do they differ from motor oil or purpose-made quenchers?
 
Has anyone ever used APG #36 for a clay coating? I have almost a quart left over from coating my last forge. I tried it on a small test blade and it pitted the steel underneath real bad. I may have overheated the blade also. If I remember right Bob Enganath used it.
 
I have used stove cement, satanite, and APG 36 (Darren Ellis). I like the APG36 best. I quench straight in, tip first. Put it on thick and let it dry enough to stay on when heating the blade.
Stacy
 
I've found that its more to do with temperature and soak times then clay thickness. I can use 1/8" clay and soak for 8-10 minutes and get fantastic hamons. Even a blade edge quenched with no clay can give a wild hamon if the soak times are adjusted. It takes time, practise and lots of experimenting
with good records each time to get regular results, and then a little praying doesn't hurt. :)

Good luck

Bill
 
This one was done with NO clay, proper soak times (as Mr. Buxton points out), and the fastest oil I can get (Parks #50 from Darren Ellis, again!) point down with agitation. This picture was after two light etches in Ferric Chloride and some very light cleanup with Mother's Mag and Wheel Polish. Sooner or later I'll finish this pig...:D

Image-22F3BDB3251511DC.jpg
 
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