Sir Snark-A-Lot

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worldwood said:
Internet sucked last night. Was off most the night.

But it did give me some time to play around with a new design.

After drawing it all up it reminded me of 100 different knives.... So i decided to call it the "Average Woody" LMAO :D.... Soon there will be a "Woody Pecker", an "Average Woody" A "Crooked Woody" with a slanted handle, And a "Big Wood" :eek: Ya see where im going with this?? HAHA :D

Sorry for the crappy picture. Didnt feel like going down stairs and turning everything on quite yet.

Its a hair under 10" with a generous amount of handle.

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The sharpening notch choil area will probably be difficult to get cleanly profiled out.... But i like it like that, so ill attempt it.
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Drill it with the right radius (diameter) before cutting the rest of the blank. Or just get a good edge on it then do it freehand with the dremel, holding the knife with your other hand ;). Make sure to have the vidso cam on for that method, though. Yaknow, for educational purposes.
 
granitestateofmind said:
Drill it with the right radius (diameter) before cutting the rest of the blank. Or just get a good edge on it then do it freehand with the dremel, holding the knife with your other hand ;). Make sure to have the vidso cam on for that method, though. Yaknow, for educational purposes.
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I thought about using a small drill bit, then maybe i could fit a file in there to clean it up and square it off. I also thought of just using the hacksaw and trying to cut the notch in....A dremel cutting disc thingy may work much better though.

But NOT after putting the edge on LMAO, I dont want to dirty my camera up with all the blood HAHA
 
worldwood said:
I thought about using a small drill bit, then maybe i could fit a file in there to clean it up and square it off. I also thought of just using the hacksaw and trying to cut the notch in....A dremel cutting disc thingy may work much better though.

But NOT after putting the edge on LMAO, I dont want to dirty my camera up with all the blood HAHA
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go buy a chainsaw file. do NOT square the interior edges of the notch as those will cause stress risers like the 1217 handle.
 
daizee said:
go buy a chainsaw file. do NOT square the interior edges of the notch as those will cause stress risers like the 1217 handle.
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So your saying it has to be round? I really liked the idea of the squared look, kind of gives it a little different appearance to all the other thousands of knives it resembles LOL

What about all the bowies out there that have squared off ricassos?

Bowie-Survival-Knife.jpg


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that's not square, that's gently radiused AND is done on a super thick piece of steel that is not fully hardened (see the hamon). Furthermore, under the shoulder where the ricasso meets the guard, there will be radiused corners that meet a slimmer stick tang.

you can go square-shaped, but do not make sharp inner corners. The ricasso on that knife is muuuch wider than the one in your drawing too, leaving a bit of finger room if you need it.
 
daizee said:
that's not square, that's gently radiused AND is done on a super thick piece of steel that is not fully hardened (see the hamon). Furthermore, under the shoulder where the ricasso meets the guard, there will be radiused corners that meet a slimmer stick tang.

you can go square-shaped, but do not make sharp inner corners. The ricasso on that knife is muuuch wider than the one in your drawing too, leaving a bit of finger room if you need it.
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I see the temper line on 1 and a hamon on the other.

So square shape is ok if you round the corners a bit? Would a chainsaw file work for that?

Sorry im not getting it LOL

I like the square look but dont want it to be a weak spot either. But a round notch just wouldnt have the same look to it.
 
As long as the inside corners of the cut-out area are not sharp 90-degree angles you should be ok. yes, you can radius them with a chainsaw file - small one if you want to keep it looking more square.

Decide how you want the plunge to work relative to the cut-out too - those two pictures you linked have different approaches.
 
Square cut outs or angles create a stress point that cracks WW. A round curve doesnt have the same tension in a focal point so is much less likely to crack.
Also on a guard at the transition like Daiz said the Cold Steel Trail Master and such have square transitions and are known for breaking at that transition, even though they are thick stock, and have a pretty good heat treat. They dont mill them round because it takes a little more work, and that means more money, and they dont think their profit margine is good enough on their knives to afford that I guess ....lol
 
daizee said:
As long as the inside corners of the cut-out area are not sharp 90-degree angles you should be ok. yes, you can radius them with a chainsaw file - small one if you want to keep it looking more square.

Decide how you want the plunge to work relative to the cut-out too - those two pictures you linked have different approaches.
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Ok great. Thanks for the tips Daizee. Chainsaw files look pretty cheap so i can do that LMAO

On the plunge line id probably go like the first one. I have never done one yet so ill have to play around a bit.
 
Silverthorn said:
Square cut outs or angles create a stress point that cracks WW. A round curve doesnt have the same tension in a focal point so is much less likely to crack.
Also on a guard at the transition like Daiz said the Cold Steel Trail Master and such have square transitions and are known for breaking at that transition, even though they are thick stock, and have a pretty good heat treat. They dont mill them round because it takes a little more work, and that means more money, and they dont think their profit margine is good enough on their knives to afford that I guess ....lol
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Yea... Ill probably end up rounding the top but keep the 2 straight lines coming down.. Like an upside down U... Hopefully that would prevent the stress risers, but keep the appearance close to the same.
 
So back towards the end of July me and the wife went to the liquor store and they had a raffle they called "Taste from abroad" or something like that. They had a deal going where for every 30 dollars you spent you got 1 free entry, you just had to fill out the card after paying. We only got 1 entry. But i filled out the card and thought nothing of it. Then just an hour ago i got a call telling me we won!!! :D

So i ran down there to collect our prize ...

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I have drank a lot of that soju while in Korea but never tasted any of the others. I have drank sake as well, but im not sure what kind it was because i got it at bars.

Free alcohol... A good day indeed LMAO
 
Jerry D. said:
I like it. It looks like you're getting in touch with your inner mountain man. :thumbup:
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Thank you! I really like it too. I am really digging the older "frontier" "18th century" "old blade" designs with a little bit of modern thrown in... Kinda stuck on them right now... These are an extremely good value too, the ROI for me is really great as far as price and performance goes. Its nothing special it just works. It is also helping me in my knife making endeavors. Practice, practice, practice.
 
TMHunt said:
That's impossible for me to tell by the pic. Basically if it was twisted to the point to where its strength was compromised, then heat treating it isn't going to fix it. Its just going to make the problem area hard and more brittle. If it wasn't, twisted that much you might be o.k. something else you might think about is this. A stacked leather handle (while very beautiful) is not a solid material. It will allow flex in the handle. That flex can possibly seek out any weak links in the tang and break over time. I had this happen to me once. I learned it the hard way. I welded all thread into a tang before and put a stacked leather handle on it. Even after proper heat treat the weld was still brittle. The knife came apart when finished. Broke at the weld under the stacked leather washers. Fortunately, it was before I sent it to the customer, but I had to start over on it. Thus changing the way I do threaded tangs forever.
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well, this one is for me so if it breaks it will be a lesson well learned. I will stack leather in the middle and stiffer stuff close to the thread, wood or stag and also a piece of steel.

So what is your method for threading tangs? What magic sorcery rites are involved - oooops, for magic stuff I have to ask JT :D
 
worldwood said:
So back towards the end of July me and the wife went to the liquor store and they had a raffle they called "Taste from abroad" or something like that. They had a deal going where for every 30 dollars you spent you got 1 free entry, you just had to fill out the card after paying. We only got 1 entry. But i filled out the card and thought nothing of it. Then just an hour ago i got a call telling me we won!!! :D

So i ran down there to collect our prize ...

15260015995_504651c3d4.jpg


I have drank a lot of that soju while in Korea but never tasted any of the others. I have drank sake as well, but im not sure what kind it was because i got it at bars.

Free alcohol... A good day indeed LMAO
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I love going shot for shot with little Asian girls who don't know how much soju I can drink :D Made for some fun times when I was younger ;)
 
So, I've had a wood stove bookmarked for a few months, and now that I have the funds, the site is down due to illness, haha. Just my luck...
 
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