Not a martial artist, so don't know about the real fighting potential of these khuks. Hope to not have to use them as such. But the kami who makes the khuk probably makes the bigger difference on the weight and balance, etc than the style of khuk. As some have stated they have sirupatis that are lighter than a kobra of the same lenght. I have a 20.5" kobra that weighs 20.5 oz. Very fast. Not good for chopping down oak trees though. Have very fast (light) 21" GS by Durba that is incredible. Have a 18" GS by kumar that weighs the same as the 21" by Durba. All are great. Sirupatis are a little fancier as are the Chitlangis. Can't go too wrong.
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Sirupati, GS and Kobra.....Opinions
- Thread starter Ankerson
- Start date
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- May 16, 2002
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- 4,437
Additional note:
If you're into fullered blades (like me), then definitely pick up the Chitlangi or Gelbu Special. I am a fuler addict, and thus have the multi-fullered YCS, and the ultra wide fullered HI Falcatta.
Keith
If you're into fullered blades (like me), then definitely pick up the Chitlangi or Gelbu Special. I am a fuler addict, and thus have the multi-fullered YCS, and the ultra wide fullered HI Falcatta.
Keith
- Joined
- Mar 5, 1999
- Messages
- 34,096
Fullers are a kami ploy to spend more time making the blade and thus charge more.
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2002
- Messages
- 3,930
"can you tell me why fullers were developed? "
Munk, fullers make a blade stronger and lighter at the same time. That's why you see so many on broadswords and other large blades. Think of a steel "I" beam compared to a flat steel bar, the I-beam is considerably stronger and more rigid. Besides, they look sexy don't they?
Sarge
Munk, fullers make a blade stronger and lighter at the same time. That's why you see so many on broadswords and other large blades. Think of a steel "I" beam compared to a flat steel bar, the I-beam is considerably stronger and more rigid. Besides, they look sexy don't they?
Sarge
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2001
- Messages
- 20,978
I can hear Homer Simpson saying:
"mmmmmmmmmm.........."
"fullllllllers............"
(followed by)
"Doh' !"
(after he cuts himself trying to drink soup with it)
"mmmmmmmmmm.........."
"fullllllllers............"
(followed by)
"Doh' !"
(after he cuts himself trying to drink soup with it)
Don't know about the fullers making the blade stronger, but they do make it lighter. Many blades are fullered. The Ka-Bar Marine combat knife for example. Some call them "blood grooves" but hear that they do not work very well for that application. The Japanese use grooves (BO-HI) on some Katanas. Not for strength but for lightness. Obviously less metal = less weight. The grooves on the Gelbu or Chitlangi look good too! Guess Uncle is right, probably to charge more as the gelbu would be a pretty plain blade like the Kobra without them.
- Joined
- Mar 5, 1999
- Messages
- 34,096
The kamis know every scam in the book.
Hello...been away for a while, and am glad to see the Forum is still humming along.
I have a 20" Sirupati (shop 2 pre-BirGhorkha) 'Old #204'; and an unmarked early-BirGhorkha 19" Gelbu Special. Both are wonderful knives, but the Sirupati is heavier in the nose than the Gelbu, by virtue of its unfullered blade and extra steel out front. The Gelbu is livelier in the hand, by far, while being as strong. I like the nice big handle on the Gelbu, too.
My opinion: "Got Goblins? Grab Gelbu!"
Well...maybe not for BEARS...
I have a 20" Sirupati (shop 2 pre-BirGhorkha) 'Old #204'; and an unmarked early-BirGhorkha 19" Gelbu Special. Both are wonderful knives, but the Sirupati is heavier in the nose than the Gelbu, by virtue of its unfullered blade and extra steel out front. The Gelbu is livelier in the hand, by far, while being as strong. I like the nice big handle on the Gelbu, too.
My opinion: "Got Goblins? Grab Gelbu!"
Well...maybe not for BEARS...
Ankerson
Knife and Computer Geek
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2002
- Messages
- 21,094
Rusty,
I guess I got my answer.
My 18.5" GS is heavier than my Bura 18" Sirp.
The GS's spine is thicker than the Sirp and the blade is alittle wider too. The handle is also longer.
But I have a Sher 18" Sirp on the way too, should be here tomorrow so I will post back when I get it.
I guess I got my answer.
My 18.5" GS is heavier than my Bura 18" Sirp.
The GS's spine is thicker than the Sirp and the blade is alittle wider too. The handle is also longer.
But I have a Sher 18" Sirp on the way too, should be here tomorrow so I will post back when I get it.
- Joined
- May 16, 2002
- Messages
- 4,437
I'd only add on the topic of fullers my personal experiences with longer blades...
The fullered sword I have have very little flex (if any) when compared to non-fullered swords i have. I can take my 43" war sword, diamond cross section, and hit it on the flat of the blade, between the point of balance and the center of percussion, and the thing wobbles back and forth for a bit. If I do the same test to my 35" Viking blade (fullered), the blade bounces once, then back to true.
So, I'd say the fuller has many purposes, being:
1. Cost effective in steel-poor times to make fulered blades of less material
2. The sword can still retain its lateral strength with reduced mass
3. The fullered blade can be made longer and still be light
4. Fullers can change the handling characteristics of a blade.
Advanced fuller observation: Placement of fullers on blades (especially historic blades) is more than just a cosmetic feature. For instance, compare the fullers in these images:
35inches
43inches
Note that in the first sword, the fuller runs almost all the way to the tip of the sword.
Note that the second sword has a fuller that stops way before the tip of the sword. This changes the properties of the sword's balance, because you've got more metal weight in the tip of the second sword. so if you fuller a sword in certain places, and not in others, you can get a more balanced or neutral feel(longer fuller) or a more point heavy (fuller only runs part of the way of the blade) feel. In other words, sometimes the fullers are used to change the handling characteristics fo a blade, just like "distal tapering"...but that is another story...
Keith
The fullered sword I have have very little flex (if any) when compared to non-fullered swords i have. I can take my 43" war sword, diamond cross section, and hit it on the flat of the blade, between the point of balance and the center of percussion, and the thing wobbles back and forth for a bit. If I do the same test to my 35" Viking blade (fullered), the blade bounces once, then back to true.
So, I'd say the fuller has many purposes, being:
1. Cost effective in steel-poor times to make fulered blades of less material
2. The sword can still retain its lateral strength with reduced mass
3. The fullered blade can be made longer and still be light
4. Fullers can change the handling characteristics of a blade.
Advanced fuller observation: Placement of fullers on blades (especially historic blades) is more than just a cosmetic feature. For instance, compare the fullers in these images:
35inches
43inches
Note that in the first sword, the fuller runs almost all the way to the tip of the sword.
Note that the second sword has a fuller that stops way before the tip of the sword. This changes the properties of the sword's balance, because you've got more metal weight in the tip of the second sword. so if you fuller a sword in certain places, and not in others, you can get a more balanced or neutral feel(longer fuller) or a more point heavy (fuller only runs part of the way of the blade) feel. In other words, sometimes the fullers are used to change the handling characteristics fo a blade, just like "distal tapering"...but that is another story...
Keith