Six Knives and a Two by Four

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Nov 13, 2002
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This was intended to be a simple comparison test to see which of my large knives I preferred for chopping. Optimal specifications and performance data don't always add up to a knife that really feels good or inspires confidence in use. For that reason I was after subjective impressions in addition to some simple objective evidence. As is frequently true in testing -- the results were far different than my expectations.

The knives tested were: (1) Ontario RTAK, (2) Becker BK1 Brute, (3) Cold Steel Trailmaster San Mai III, (4) Tramontina 18" machete, (5) Cold Steel Gurkha Kukri, and (6) Cold Steel Gurkha Light Kukri.

The test was a really easy one (at least I thought it was going in). All knives were brand new and sharpened on a Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker until they were fully shaving sharp. Each knife was then used to chop through a 2x4 one time (what could be simpler?). Afterwards, each was checked to see if it would still shave right at the point of impact. My goal, as I said, was primarily to find out which one I liked best, but secondarily to make sure there weren't any major problems executing the task.

The first knife tested was the Ontario RTAK. In less than 60 seconds the blade blew out. This was after about 15 light chops on soft pine. The blade is missing a chunk about half the size of a quarter right at the sweet spot. Prior to failure it was chopping deeply and aggressively, but sticking pretty tight. I am glad I did not put myself in a position to rely on this knife before I checked it out. I suppose Ontario would send me another if I shipped it to them, but what's the point? I have no confidence in it for its intended purpose and they are way too big to spread peanut butter. Can I get my money back, please?

Next up was the Becker BK1 Brute. This knife succeeded in cutting off the 2x4 (hurray). The geometry of this blade is fattest right at the sweet spot, so it is very hard to get it to chop nicely. To compensate, I increased the force quite a bit. Regardless, I could not drive it very far into the wood. Consequently it took too many hard chops to complete the task. And afterward it would not shave due to substantial edge damage. Nothing like the RTAK, just lots of chipping / denting from some small knots. Bringing the edge back to shaving will take a lot of time on a diamond stone.

Next was the Cold Steel Trailmaster San Mai III. I really just brought this one along for the ride, but ended up being pleasantly surprised. It chopped deeply and easily and did not stick due to the rolled edge geometry. Afterward it shaved just fine. No visible edge damage whatsoever even though I intentionally drove it through knots.

Next was the Tramontina 18" machete. I have chopped a LOT of wood with machetes and I like them for that purpose. I had never used a Tramontina before. Due to the long thin blade it chopped easily and deeply. From extensive experience with the machete, I have developed pretty powerful technique (i.e. with each chop I have the blade loudly whistling at impact). In spite of this I did not notice an annoying level of sticking unless I got it to go more than inch or two deep into an uncut section wood. Afterwards, the soft steel was still shaving sharp (great!). No visible edge damage even though I went after a knot or two.

Next was the Cold Steel Gurkha Kukri. It felt very powerful on the pine (knots and all) and did not stick annoyingly. Afterwards it shaved well with no visible edge damage.

Finally I tried the Cold Steel Gurkha Light Kukri. This blade obviously does not have the power of big brother, but still felt pretty aggressive. Afterwards, however, its edge was not as sharp. Just to make sure I resharpened and repeated the test. It just barely shaved. This is odd since both blades are the same Carbon V steel. There is obviously some variability going on in the material or heat treatment.

Conclusions: Well, the bottom three were the RTAK (yeesh), the Becker BK1 Brute (for whom I had such high hopes), and the Cold Steel Gurkha Light Kukri.

The top three were the Tramontina 18" machete (which cost $6.00), the Cold Steel Trailmaster San Mai III (which has an AUS 8A cutting edge!), and the Cold Steel Gurkha Kukri (the only one that really behaved as expected).

I find the fact that a soft carbon and a stainless steel blade made it into the top three interesting. I find the fact that two hard, high carbon steel blades were in the bottom three even more interesting. This shakes what I believed I knew about good choppers.

Obviously soft carbon and chewy stainless have the ability not to break on impact by being overly brittle. If my life depended on it I would rather have a soft knife that would never break and spend more time sharpening than I would have a hard blade that will end up chipping out or snapping.

To me a large chip like the RTAK suffered is just as bad as an out and out break since the knife is pretty much useless beyond the blow out. It might as well be snapped off. This same problem could just as easily occur on a differentially hardened edge, that was overly hard, so there would be no protection there either.

Since I am thinking that softer / tougher is better, and as a result of these tests, I now have the Cold Steel Trailmaster San Mai III at the ready. It really chopped quite well, the edge held up well, and it is a pretty practical knife -- as big ones go. I have used it in the kitchen and even carved a turkey with it once just to see how it would do (I wouldn't try this with the Tramontina machete or the Gurkha Kukri). It does not upset me that it will never rust, either. I only wish it had a more durable handle material.

The search continues.
 
the khukuris by Himalayan Imports? Awesome choppers, they don't bind up in the wood and they will keep an edge. You get a LOT of knife for your money and Uncle Bill is one of the best guys around. If you're looking for a chopper, check them out. You wont be disappointed. I've got four, sized from 12" to 25" but far and away the most versitile is my 18" WWII. When we had some high winds a couple months back some of the smaller limbs (3"-4") from our maple tree came down. After chopping them down to size I took a lazy swipe at a freestanding dandelion, cut it clean in half. I was surprised. Also, try the search for some of Cliff Stamp's reviews. You'll find out which knives can take a merciless beating and which can't. Might save you some expensive trial and error. Good luck on your quest for the perfect chopper.

Frank
 
Frank, thanks for the advise. These were all knives that I have had around for some time but never had gotten around to really trying out. As you can see, at least half of them weren't worth the investment. Live and learn.

The direction I think I am headed is toward some of the Martindale products. Cliff seems pretty happy with these lately and as we both know he is not one to heap on much undeserved praise.

The Martindales meet my criteria for being soft (and therefore tough) and for being a machete! I like the distal taper, too, so that is a plus.

The reason I like machetes so much is because I have spent considerable time clearing areas where there was everything from weeds to brush to hardwoods. A machete is the only tool I know of that you can put in your hand and go after all of it without stopping. And they are light enough to not make you too tired after many hours of work. The problem is finding a really good one.

Having spoken with Uncle Bill many years ago on the phone, I must agree he is a complete gentleman. I know everyone is in love with the HI products, too. They are not exactly what I am looking for right now, but I am sure at some point I will end up owning one. The 18 inch AK would suit me well for the North Woods where the undergrowth is minimal.

Which reminds me, morel season should be right around the corner...
 
Very interesting review, and many thanks! I have some of your knives, but not all. I also like the Carbon V in CS blades, and have had good luck with all of them so far.

I have found that the CS Gurkha Kukri binds in soft wood, due to the flat primary grind and edge. It's plenty strong enough to twist out, but I have had the binding problem. Interesting that your's didn't. I don't have a San Mai Trailmaster, but a regular Carbon V, and it really is a great chopper.

I hope that you do check out the HI website. The smallest Khukuri from Bill that I have is a BAS, about the size of a Trailmaster, and it outchops the Trailmaster easily 2 to 1. Believe me, I like the Trailmaster, but these khukuris are just unreal when it come to chopping wood. I haven't had a problem with binding, probably due to the convex edge.

Thanks again, and keep up the good work!
 
Thanks for your interest in my little chopping experiment, swede. I find it fascinating that after thousands of years of making and using knives, we still have so much to learn! I'd say this forum, even in just the last few years, has made big strides in helping sort out wheat from chaff in the knife market. Cliff's steadfast arm and the sacrifice of many a NF tree deserve much credit alone on the chopping end of things. The good news is I think we can see evidence that manufacturers are starting to listen to what goes on here.

I believe that a lot of times, from generation to generation, we learn and lose lessons over and over again. It appears the folks in Nepal have hung on to knowing how to make a good piece of steel, shaped right for cutting wood. The Swedes (your ancestors, perhaps?) seem to have a good handle on this, as well. My bet is that this is because their lives have depended on it. Fortunately (or unfortunately) many of ours don't anymore.

As far as sticking goes with my CS Gurkha Kukri, I wouldn't say that it didn't, just that it wasn't driving me nuts. An occasional stick that comes loose pretty easily doesn't bother me too much. If I constantly have to rock the blade back and forth to get it out, then that's another story.

To some degree my chopping technique may help with this. I try to aim really well and start out with a strong stroke angled downward (which may stick). I then follow that up with an upward stroke that knocks out the initial wedge. After that I alternate back and forth from downward to upward, enlarging the notch on each side. For small wood, when I'm about half way through I start on the other side of the trunk. For really big wood, I do this on four sides of the trunk. The more accurate you can be, the less chips you have to clear out and the less opportunity for sticking. If I miss and make a bad hit I just go back to where I was and stay on plan. Timber!
 
Minuteman :

I suppose Ontario would send me another if I shipped it to them, but what's the point? I have no confidence in it for its intended purpose and they are way too big to spread peanut butter.

Get the replacement and sell it if they don't offer a refund which they obviously should.

[Tramontina 18" machete]

Was this the class machete pattern, or some kind of bolo, parang , or golok ?

[Cold Steel Gurkha Light Kukri]

It just barely shaved. This is odd since both blades are the same Carbon V steel.

If you had to use more chops with the lighter blade this could be the reason. You could try doing a similar amount of cuts with each blade and seeing if the GLK still fell behind.

I find the fact that a soft carbon and a stainless steel blade made it into the top three interesting. I find the fact that two hard, high carbon steel blades were in the bottom three even more interesting. This shakes what I believed I knew about good choppers.

It is a sad statement that high end blades cannot match the performance of a Tramontina in the aspects you described, however this isn't an indication of the lack of ability for tool steels, just problems with the implementation. The highest quality of materials can easily produce a failing product if not used correctly.

The Brute and Ontario RTAK should not be taken as indicators of how that class of steel should in general behave. High quality tool and spring steels have the potentional to take a finer edge and still retain the necessary durability because of inherent greater strength and toughness over mild and stainless steels - however the geometry has to be so optomized and the heat treatment of high quality.

A Valiant Golok is a standout choice for thick wood work as you described. It cuts deeply, with little binding and I found the handle ergonomic and secure. However the tip and choil area of the edge are a little off in regards to knot contacts and should be reserved in general for softer woods as they are rather soft. The blade can also be bent laterally easily so it is not much of a prybar.

Nice work, I hope to see more in the future.

-Cliff
 
Cliff,

Was this the class machete pattern, or some kind of bolo, parang, or golok?

This is a classic pattern machete with riveted wood handle slabs. Blade length is 18 inches, thickness is .090 from hilt to tip, bevels are .20 wide.

If you had to use more chops with the lighter blade this could be the reason. You could try doing a similar amount of cuts with each blade and seeing if the GLK still fell behind.

I think you're right, I probably did chop more times with the GKL. I will try an equal chops test soon to see if there really is a problem with the steel or not. I will post the results.

However, even if there is no difference, from my subjective point of view, if the task is to cut off a tree trunk with a cross sectional area of 8 square inches, and one knife will do it in less chops and still be sharp, and the other requires more chops (because it is lighter) and is subsequently more dull, I would still declare the first knife the winner.

this isn't an indication of the lack of ability for tool steels, just problems with the implementation.

I agree, the better steel should produce a superior product, but I think when manufacturers skate close to the performance edge, and don't have good process controls in place, they frequently go over. It is indeed sad, but if you stay back from the edge, you may at least end up with a knife that will stay in one piece.

That said, based on your results with the BK9 on the caribou legs, I am thinking seriously about giving one a try. I have to admit I feel a bit like I am rolling the dice, though. Fortunately they are not too expensive -- I can get one with the money I get selling my replacement RTAK.

I also would like to try one of the Martindales -- maybe a golok or bolo. It didn't sound like you had good results with the classic pattern.

Don't know if you ever happened upon this article on John Fitch's "Hog Body" bowie:

http://www.russianhunting.com/kings_of_blade_swing.shtml

You can get one of these made for a mere $700. None of my blades made it through the 2x4 in less than 10 seconds. John set the record with this knife by lopping one off in 2.79 seconds. Now that's a knife!
 
Minuteman :

This is a classic pattern machete with riveted wood handle slabs. Blade length is 18 inches, thickness is .090 from hilt to tip, bevels are .20 wide.

It is interesting that you were able to work with the edge at that acute a profile, that is about 25 degrees included, it shows very solid technique.

... if the task is to cut off a tree trunk with a cross sectional area of 8 square inches, and one knife will do it in less chops and still be sharp, and the other requires more chops (because it is lighter) and is subsequently more dull, I would still declare the first knife the winner.

Absolutely, cutting ability in general acts to increase edge retention and also durablity and it is the performance over a given task that is of importance in general. Like you noted, there is more to these qualities than the raw abiltiies of the steel. if the knife cuts at a much lower ability, it can often still blunt faster or get damaged more extensively as it has to do much more work and see higher forces.

... when manufacturers skate close to the performance edge, and don't have good process controls in place, they frequently go over. It is indeed sad, but if you stay back from the edge, you may at least end up with a knife that will stay in one piece.

Yes, manufacturers should do random spot testing to make sure problems like you described are limited to very rare cases.

If you are interested in the Martindale Bolo you can have the one I modifed, details are in the review. If you are interested drop me an email. In regards to the larger full machetes, on it doesn't work well on thick woods, the penetration is fine, it just binds excessively and there is a lot of vibration. It works very well on small diameter soft woods and light brush. I can also send you the Becker Bowie after I have finished with it, assuming it doesn't suffer gross failure - that should be in a couple of months.

-Cliff
 
Cliff,

It is interesting that you were able to work with the edge at that acute a profile, that is about 25 degrees included, it shows very solid technique.

This edge was terminated with a very small 40 degree bevel given by sharpening it on the Spyderco Tri-angle Sharpmaker. These final bevels could not be more that say .005 wide at the most. I like an edge that comes down very thin, but then has the 40 degree sharpening bevel right at the end for a little additional durability. It also means I can keep using the Sharpmaker to bring them back until they get too wide and I need to reprofile. I don't know what your experience has been in this area.

I have had good luck with 18 inch machetes and my technique. They seem to fly straight and true in my hand and when they do, you get the feedback of a whistling sound. Get off by even a little and the whistle goes away. Make them whistle loud and they bite deep.

If you are interested in the Martindale Bolo you can have the one I modifed, details are in the
review.

I will email you about the bolo. I read the review and it doesn't sound like you liked it as much as the one shaped like the Nike logo (which by the way appears to be completely un-sheath-able).

I think I will go ahead and order a BK9 just to see if it can keep up with yours (which you appear to be giving a healthy workout).

Also, if you haven't had your hands on a CS Gurkha Light, I will be glad to let you give this one a go after my equal chops test.
 
Minuteman :

This edge was terminated with a very small 30 degree bevel given by sharpening it on the Spyderco Tri-angle Sharpmaker.

I use a similar profile on machetes of that type for the eaxct reasons you describe, better durability and much greater speed of sharpening with only a minor loss in cutting ability, which can be minimized by not letting the secondary bevel grow too large. I convex the edges mostly, but this tends to get direct secondary bevel after filing to remove any visible damage from very hard contacts. After many such repairs I bleed the edge back on a belt sander again. It depends on the knife to a large extent, on high end blades I will put the effort into keeping the convex profile, on cheaper machetes I'll just break out the file.

... it doesn't sound like you liked it as much as the one shaped like the Nike logo (which by the way appears to be completely un-sheath-able).

The bolo did need a lot of work to become efficient, but once modified it was a strong performer on thick woods. The wide tip blade is better for lighter wood, up to an including limbing of small live branches. The bolo is better at thick woods and dense and/or dead limbs. The wide tip machete is pretty funky to sheath. I just carry it in a cardboard case wrapped with duct tape - really high tech. If any of those machetes sound interesting just drop me an email, they are all demo models and only the golok is spoken for.

I have handled the CS khukuris, but thanks for the offer.

-Cliff
 
Originally posted by Cliff Stamp
Get the replacement and sell it if they don't offer a refund which they obviously should.
-Cliff

Well, Cliff, I fully intended to follow your advice and sell the replacement they sent me for the Ontario RTAK I had that broke. Unfortunately the new one sat around here in the box long enough that I gave in to the temptation to try it out, too. After doing a little chopping with it, I should mention (on Ontario's behalf) that I haven't had any significant problems with this one.

This particular blade came with a very narrow edge angle which was ground with, in my opinion, way, way too coarse of a belt (like below 100 grit I would guess). Back to the edge hardening crack issue, maybe this is part of the problem with these knives.

At any rate, I felt that I should probably put a 40 degree canticle on it to toughen it up a little and leave a smoother finish up front. As it turned out I should have made this canticle a little bit wider as I did manage to put a slight ripple in the edge. However, a slight ripple is welcome over my past brittle failure blow out. This blade doesn't seem to be as hard as the last one. I feel fairly comfortable at this point that it's not going to shatter.

I really do like the design of this knife, which is why is was so disappointed with the first one. One thing I have noticed that I would change (and I would be interested to hear Newt's comments on this) is the use of the three brass bushings inside the handle. These brass bushings are large and add a LOT of weight to the knife. And they make the balance fairly neutral for such a big blade. But I feel like if the bushings were aluminum instead, I would like it better. This would lighten the whole thing up and throw the balance forward, which to me it begs for, for stronger chopping.

Newt, if you happen to see this, is this the way you intended the balance to be?
 
Very interesting comparisons!


Minuteman, have you had a chance to use the BK9 or any of the Martindales yet?





- Frank
 
Not yet, but they are on my list. Cliff has beat the tarnation out of them though. I am interested in the Martindale Golok and the Paratrooper.
 
I am also interested in the Martindales, I have never used any of them, but they look interesting.




-Frank
 
I have the Martidale Golok. Only got to use it on one short camping trip. I used it to limb arm thick branches that we dragged in for the fire. I used to break all of those branches off but the Golok is much quicker. The arm thick portions were cut with a saw.
All cutting was done on a very chop weary stump. The Golok cut quite well and I breezed thru the limbs. The edge dulled but I'd attribute that to all of the sand and dirt in the stump.
A couple of swipes on the Norton india stone and all was well.
I hope to use it some more on our winter hike and I'll let y'all know more, then.
 
Minuteman :

This particular blade came with a very narrow edge angle which was ground with, in my opinion, way, way too coarse of a belt (like below 100 grit I would guess). Back to the edge hardening crack issue, maybe this is part of the problem with these knives.

The more coarse the belt the faster the sharpening, this is common in cheaper production.

At any rate, I felt that I should probably put a 40 degree canticle on it to toughen it up a little and leave a smoother finish up front. As it turned out I should have made this canticle a little bit wider as I did manage to put a slight ripple in the edge.

At 20 degrees per side? Newt by the way has nothing to do with the Ontario version of the RTAK. I have a Paratrooper, edge modified as noted in the review if you want it drop me an email.

Frank I have a large quare tipped Martindale left, same offer.

-Cliff
 
I have a Tramontina and a Gransfors Forest axe. Whenever I go into the woods knowing I'll be chopping lots of firewood, I bring the Tramontina. I swear I can chop down a tree faster than with the axe, and it's lighter weight, easier to sharpen and I got 2 of them for $5.00 on ebay. After several camping trips and many logs chopped, it has a few dings on the edge, but they sharpen out easily. The Tramontina also takes a shaving sharp edge that lasts.
 
Originally posted by Cliff Stamp
Newt by the way has nothing to do with the Ontario version of the RTAK.
-Cliff
I was just curious if when Newt designed this knife, he used the heavy brass inserts and wanted a more neutral balance -- or if this was an Ontario adaptation.

In my hand, the Ontario RTAK begs to be a little more weight forward. And to get this by lightening the whole thing would be a nice bonus, to boot. I bet by replacing the brass with aluminum, you could save 2 - 3 ounces inside the handle.
 
It certainly is a known feature, Randall commented in the past for example that the RTAK was readily out chopped by other production knives of its size. Considering that it made more as a short machete, I can see where the balance would want to be shifted back, though I personally would prefer it more forward as I use that class of knife on more woody vegetation.

-Cliff
 
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