Skandia grind on a Ka-Bar?

Do you mean a "Scandi" grind (no secondary bevel) as championed by UK bushcrafters and very rare in Scandinavia?
 
I did the old style USAF survival knife (pre-ASEK) which to my eye is about the same in terms of grind height and thickness. The steel also seems to work similarly. Maybe it's the same, I don't know off hand.

For my use, it greatly increased its performance. I keep it that way, so it must be alright. I don't use the knife often though.

I haven't done a KaBar, because I don't use it in a way that a zero grind would help any.

HTH
 
There's a video on youtube from a feller that did it to a short KaBar. Seems like a pretty cool mod, but there are a lot of scandi knives that can be purchased for less than the $50 price tag of a KaBar.

[video=youtube;r6UuNJ51wi8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6UuNJ51wi8[/video]
 
There's a video on youtube from a feller that did it to a short KaBar. Seems like a pretty cool mod, but there are a lot of scandi knives that can be purchased for less than the $50 price tag of a KaBar.

[video=youtube;r6UuNJ51wi8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6UuNJ51wi8[/video]

Yea, but I already have a Ka-bar
 
good job for the guy on the video but god damn I'd kill that bird! also, with a belt sander, that coudl have been accomplished in under 15 mins!
 
I know people have done it. Any tips? How did you like it over the long run?
If your starting question still stands at is, you can see a master of reprofiling at work in the video.
My tips: Do it by hand! One slip on the machine and you ruin the heattreat and/or the cutting edge

Cannot say about k-bar scandis in specific but can tell about scandi grinds on combat knives:
+++ Hair splitting sharp
+ Looks nice
- Mainenance intensive (Sharpening/Oiling)
- The value of the "original" lost
-- Cutting edge highly vulnerable to damage
--- Too thick for efficient bushcraft
--- Cutting its own way free out of the leather sheath thats not been designed for scandi-edge :mad:
 
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