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Skeletal handled knives, do you own one? Would you own one?
- Thread starter Lynn Grififth Knives
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 4, 1999
- Messages
- 551
Lynn,
I like skeletonized knives for the simple reason that they are flat and they can be concealed under a shirt.
An optional cord wrap gives it a better grip and doesn't raise the profile too much.
Try a few and test the waters.
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If a man can keep alert and imaginative, an error is a possibility, a chance at something new; to him, wandering and wondering are a part of the same process. He is most mistaken, most in error, whenever he quits exploring.
William Least Heat Moon
I like skeletonized knives for the simple reason that they are flat and they can be concealed under a shirt.
An optional cord wrap gives it a better grip and doesn't raise the profile too much.
Try a few and test the waters.
------------------
If a man can keep alert and imaginative, an error is a possibility, a chance at something new; to him, wandering and wondering are a part of the same process. He is most mistaken, most in error, whenever he quits exploring.
William Least Heat Moon
- Joined
- Apr 27, 1999
- Messages
- 6,117
Generally I wouldn't want a skeletonized grip if my application involved getting the knife slippery. For a hunting knife, fishing knife, or tactical knife I want a no-slip grip that works when wet with blood. One option would be to have a highly contoured grip with indentions for the fingers and additionally a non-slip surface on the grip. The old Gerber daggers had stainless steel droplets sprayed onto the handles to produce a shark-skin-like grip.
My preferred aproach is to wrap the handle in some type of cording. I've used leather lacing material, wire, and cord. If you need to improve these grips you can apply a little rosin or beeswax to the cord. If I bought a knife with a skeleton grip I would like to have some extra holes optimised for securing wrapped cord. These holes should be radiused to avoid cutting cord that passes through them.
My preferred aproach is to wrap the handle in some type of cording. I've used leather lacing material, wire, and cord. If you need to improve these grips you can apply a little rosin or beeswax to the cord. If I bought a knife with a skeleton grip I would like to have some extra holes optimised for securing wrapped cord. These holes should be radiused to avoid cutting cord that passes through them.
I own several and would buy more in the future. Neck knives are not for everyone. But if you are a sportsperson who like to rough it a bit in the outdoors, a neck knife would be beneficial. As a bicyclist I carry neck knives all the time. It is much easier to reach for in the proverbial pinch and much less chance of possible loss if they were carried in a pocket. Runners, rafters, climbers and jumpers come to mind. My current carry is an Emerson La Griffe. Although is is on the thin side, the finger hole allows for a secure and confident grip. I also alternate with a REKAT Utility.
The knives should be at least 1/8 " stock with a resonably stainless steel since it will be carried close to the body. I' d prefer a BROAD type blade and a proportionately sized handle. The problem is not in its width for most but in its length. There are too many neck knives out there that are just to narrow in size. Perhaps a BROAD blade design will make up for its shorter length, at least for protective purposes. 5.5 OAL with a deep finger choil and a rounded flared handle with file work around the perimeter of the handle is ideal. Of course the handle tang would need to slotted out to keep weight to a minimum which would be about 4 oz. max. That' s my preferences.
L8r,
Nakano
The knives should be at least 1/8 " stock with a resonably stainless steel since it will be carried close to the body. I' d prefer a BROAD type blade and a proportionately sized handle. The problem is not in its width for most but in its length. There are too many neck knives out there that are just to narrow in size. Perhaps a BROAD blade design will make up for its shorter length, at least for protective purposes. 5.5 OAL with a deep finger choil and a rounded flared handle with file work around the perimeter of the handle is ideal. Of course the handle tang would need to slotted out to keep weight to a minimum which would be about 4 oz. max. That' s my preferences.
L8r,
Nakano