Skinny Ash Project

richstag

richstag

Joined
Feb 22, 2007
Messages
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I am trying a project with my Skinny ASH. I probably should not mess with it but I am prepared for the worst. With that said, any input from the folks that have done this before would be wonderful. here is where I am right now. I am going to take my time.

SASH1.jpg
 
OK, looks like you've got the knife coated and the scales fitted right. Last step is to reattach them with tube fasteners. Good job! ;)

Seriously - take your time. What mods are you doing that you need the handles off? Planning on satinizing? Profile change? Handle change? Convexing? Inquiring minds wanna know.
 
here is my best advice. Since this is is a skinny, and I don't have a skinny Ash1, I say, send this to me. I promise to strip it for you, then I will reattach the handles and you will never hear from it again. But I promise It won't be neglected!
 
I plan to try to put a satin finish on it. I am trying to strip the coating now. Went to the local ma & pa hardware store and got the only stripper I could find.
 
Make sure the stripper is rated harsh enough to dissolve the coating. Not all strippers are created equal... Yea. Some are just for latex paints and whatnot...
 
I have my ways Rolf:D

Here is a pic of the worst I found. Really if I did not have my mind set on the satin thing I think the INFI dimples look pretty awesome:D



SASH2.jpg




So at this point, any advise?
 
Do the flat sections and the grind sections seperately by taping off each part with a bit of wood either side under the tape to catch the belt when you make your passes on the sander.

Otherwise you erode the grind ramp on the ricasso which is a shame when you have gone to the trouble of removing the grips....it is a common thing to happen when you leave the grips on...but a much better professional job can be done now you have removed the grips...and do use some leather hide on the platten...velcro etc won't give you the same smooth finish.

Use a magic marker to paint stripes along the blade to ensure regular stock removal and it should look great:thumbup:
 
Okay, so I am giving it a rest for the night. Here is what I have so far. I have not even left 40 grit yet and I am not done with that.

SASH3.jpg
 
Skinny ASH? :confused: :eek: :eek: :eek:

Good luck Kev... I'm sure it'll turn out great!!! :)

Peter's comments sound of experience and a good way to protect the radius in the plunge line. :thumbup:
But how do you clean up a radius plunge? :confused: Slack belt? :confused:

Can't wait to see pics of her when your done. :thumbup:

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Yeah, seriously I will take all of the advise that I can get. The last thing I want to do is screw up my knife.

Thanks guys for the help:)
 
The common problem to try to avoid is tapering the ricasso talon hole to a "V" as the belt slips over it to the angle of the grind...the leather glued to the platten helps keep the flat sections flat by pressing against it...then to convex fully the blade and give a Satin finish do it seperately...I measure off with digital calipers to ensure the width is a constant and usually it is with singular passes...but the calipers help make sure the flat section is the same as the grind section if done seperately...
to get a good convex shape to the blade I use the slack part of the belt near to the top pully....the higher up the belt you go the more "taught" the belt is...the idea being you don't want to remove stock from the top of the spine but solely towards the edge to get a curve which retains spine depth and strength....

Looking at your job so far though it looks great...:thumbup:
 
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