Skinny Ash - where is the edge?

My SAR4 came pretty dull and it did not have a "Swine Shaving Sharpness Sheet".

So I shaprpened it myself.....
 
Send it back into Busse...

I had them put a wicked sharp convex edge on this beauty. :)

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Thanks can make them air bleeding sharp alright! :D

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Venice Will said:
I picked up a very sweet Skinny Ash off the Forums...

Before I start...I'm just seeking information, this isn't meant to be
a criticism


Where is the edge ...? is it supposed to be relatively "un-sharp?" I pressed my thumb down reasonably hard on the edge and...nothing....paper cutting...well, it more "shred/ripped"

I figured with a "skinny" designation, it would have at least as sharp
an edge as the FFBM or NMSFNO I have....it is actually the least
sharp of the group....

my expectation off...? I run into that ....

thanks...
Click to expand...


I'm just gonna point something out here so everyone can at least agree on some core fundamental geometry thats being talked about.

4 elements of "Sharpness"

1 - spine thickness
2 - primary bevel angle and geometry (saber vs. full flat)
3 - thickness behind the cutting edge
4 - geometry and quality of the actual cutting edge


the skinny ash is skinny because it's spine thickness is reduced. that doesn't say anything about the other 4 parts. an example of where that has been stated in the past is the boney ash's wich were described as having very little metal directly behind the cutting edge. and even then that didn't reference the geometry of the actual cutting edge.

if the spine is thick, the knife will feel dull when cutting through material because of the wedging forces. if the geometry is low, like on the NARK, it will feel dull because it's forcing material apart super quick which gives a lot of wedging feedback to the hand, if there's a ton of metal behind the edge (think FFBM tip) it will feel dull for the same reasons as low sabers, and if the cutting edge itself is dull then it is literally by definition dull - and yet on a super thin knife it may still cut efficiently (think box cutters through cardboard).

so. what -exactly- is dull about your knife? if it's the actual cutting edge, some stropping and touch up work will probably get the cutting edge itself to hair popping sharp. if it's the metal behind the edge that's bothering you you'll have to send it in to have it reduced (customized) or do it yourself/have another maker done. if it's an issue with the saber geometry or the spine thickness, then customization or another model would be the recourse.


I've had 1 single busse come to me with a factory edge that really impressed me, and that was a custom bead blasted assault shaker. that thing scared me it was so sharp - but after I personally sharpened it I realized that the only reason for that was how little metal there was behind the edge. the cutting edge itself was a rough 35 degree's with a high polish at the edge. factory sharpness is generally enough to get you by - but it is a critical and highly useful skill to be able to sharpen your own knives. I've never faulted a company for sending me a dull knife - I've only ever faulted them for the other elements of sharpness because they are a design feature, not a finishing process.

Jerry has mentioned previously new processes that would gaurentee a consistent edge angle on the new production knives, and I assume thats in place now. either way, I'm of the opinion that lowered expectations about the edge geometry (having to sharpen every knife that you buy new) makes for a happier buying process.
 
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I just purchased a skinny ASH and initially i was not real impressed with the sharpness. It doen't cut paper and it just doen't "feel" sharp. I started using it though and its plenty sharp enough for field work. Cuts rope, punched through drywall, and is plenty useful to me. I do need to learn how to sharpen it, as last visible canary suggested, because its a good skill to have, but i wouldn't have complained if my knife showed up a little sharper.

Just a quick question, i thought the ASH came with a convex edge. Why do i read suggestions that folks put their own convex edge on these knifes? Whats the difference? Also, can someone point me to a good strop online that i can buy and start practicing with (assuming thats the best way to sharpen my busse.)
 
MarshJr said:
I just purchased a skinny ASH and initially i was not real impressed with the sharpness. It doen't cut paper and it just doen't "feel" sharp. I started using it though and its plenty sharp enough for field work. Cuts rope, punched through drywall, and is plenty useful to me. I do need to learn how to sharpen it, as last visible canary suggested, because its a good skill to have, but i wouldn't have complained if my knife showed up a little sharper.

Just a quick question, i thought the ASH came with a convex edge. Why do i read suggestions that folks put their own convex edge on these knifes? Whats the difference? Also, can someone point me to a good strop online that i can buy and start practicing with (assuming thats the best way to sharpen my busse.)
Click to expand...

Lee Valley Tools has a nice strop available, that's where I got mine. I got some green polishing compound (which they sell as well) and charged one side of the strop, the other side I left as plain leather.
 
I havent bought one lately but the one I bought years ago cut me twice in the first day I had it.
Good stuff.
josh
 
On the One hand, the Single Sharpest knives I have ever owned came from the Busse Factory.

On the Other hand I have a BM-E/SH-E/NO and BA/e that Still have the coating on with absolutly no evidence to ever having been even tried to get sharpened.

Of Course I did Order them that way, years ago.

So as to be able to have Busse knives on the table, less likely to make a Customer Bleed while casually handling the knives.
 
Check out Horton, he does an amazing job at convexing your knife and it will be very very sharp. I will post some action pics of my hortonized skinny ash very soon.
 
Send it to either Busse or Horton and they'll make it right. The HG55 I had I know could not cut paper even if I wanted it to, but a quick sharpening could make it lethal.
 
It's worth learning to sharpen the knife yourself, rather than send it off. I'm not gonna pay shipping just to have a knife sharpened.
 
MarshJr said:
I just purchased a skinny ASH and initially i was not real impressed with the sharpness. It doen't cut paper and it just doen't "feel" sharp. I started using it though and its plenty sharp enough for field work. Cuts rope, punched through drywall, and is plenty useful to me. I do need to learn how to sharpen it, as last visible canary suggested, because its a good skill to have, but i wouldn't have complained if my knife showed up a little sharper.

Just a quick question, i thought the ASH came with a convex edge. Why do i read suggestions that folks put their own convex edge on these knifes? Whats the difference? Also, can someone point me to a good strop online that i can buy and start practicing with (assuming thats the best way to sharpen my busse.)
Click to expand...

Sometimes the confusion comes from the difference between a convex edge, and a fully convexed blade. Many of the pictures you see, especially of Ban's or Horton's work are fully convexed blades- which also have convex edges- they don't have to. There used to be a really good thread on convexing an edge, maybe someone could post the link?
 
I like the tutorial where I do it and get paid,, lol,, he is right ,, on most mods where there are to be dimples taken out of the blade, example, skinny ash, or blades like the NM series. That have a convex profile,, the whole blade gets ground convex, to a zero edge, the mistress mods and hhfsh, anything with a saber just gets the edge,, its all about angles,, both can be very effective for what they are used for,, for a as from Busse edge,, I like to strop the v edge at a high angle, taking out all the scratches,, this gives you a very efficient/durable edge that can be done by anyone at there home,, Busse knives have great edge geometry for the masses,, there are people that seriously do the business on these things,, concrete, rocks etc,, a very small bit of hand time that is very easy, and risk proof,,can vastly increase performance of INFI,, Busse has upped the level of sharpenning since the outcry, of dullness ,, and if you feel something is not right send it back,, Jerry and company are not like the movie,, Waiting,,,, they won't spit on your knife and stuff,, Busse cares about the end user of their blades,, This is why they are the Mangs,,

Thanks J,
 
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A few passes on my old warn out super fine diamond hone and they're good to go to the woods, and i'm a happy camper.
 
THE MAN called me today to make sure I would be happy with the shop's edge ripping on the Skinny - he gave me a short course in edge profiling"...

A great man, standing behind a great knife...he won't be worrying about the economy from this dude's perspexctive...I am a Busse man, exclusive for the forseeable future (besides, they're a damn fine investment !)

Thanks Jerry -
 
Venice Will said:
THE MAN called me today to make sure I would be happy with the shop's edge ripping on the Skinny - he gave me a short course in edge profiling"...

A great man, standing behind a great knife...he won't be worrying about the economy from this dude's perspexctive...I am a Busse man, exclusive for the forseeable future (besides, they're a damn fine investment !)

Thanks Jerry -
Click to expand...


I told you:):)
 
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